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vtec not working properly

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    vtec not working properly

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz35F...ature=youtu.be

    sorry about the horn honk lol... its hard to hold a damn phone and drive on a bad road
    h22, i just did a head swap and delta regrinds(i just called them, and they said they put the old stage 2 skunk 2 profile on the cams, which is VERY close to the tuner stage 1 now), i used all old sensors and they all worked fine
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgz6i...ature=youtu.be
    2nd link is idle and exhaust sound, when cold
    Last edited by 93redcb7; 05-30-2012, 09:21 PM.

    #2
    CB7's don't come with a VTEC motor.

    Unless you did a swap. And if you did, we have no idea what motor you have.
    Originally posted by deevergote
    These cars will never be the best at anything, but they're pretty damn good at everything.

    92ex CB7<-SOLD 93ex CB9shiftingshift73C10

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Post
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz35F...ature=youtu.be

      sorry about the horn honk lol... its hard to hold a damn phone and drive on a bad road
      h22, i just did a head swap and delta regrinds, i used all old sensors and they all worked fine
      Just a head swap?
      So you didn't replace/add in any wiring, Or replace the ECU?


      Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

      My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

      A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

      If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View Post
        Just a head swap?
        So you didn't replace/add in any wiring, Or replace the ECU?
        i soldered the vtec wires together cause they were only butt connected. other than that, nothing.

        Comment


          #5
          bump, i could use some help

          Comment


            #6
            You are dodging both of their questions is it a full H22 or a F22 with a H22 head?

            And yup it matters.

            02 Crv
            02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
            92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
            Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by SOHC-FTW View Post
              You are dodging both of their questions is it a full H22 or a F22 with a H22 head?

              And yup it matters.
              It's a H22 head swap onto a H22 block, you and I were just discussing his idle in his other thread, H22 head swap something or other.
              Originally posted by Mishakol129
              Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

              Comment


                #8
                yes its a h22 head on h22 block, franken motors arent work the work... but did u guys even bother to watch the video's?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes and i can tell you your timing's still wrong and your valves are out of adjustment use close to stock valve specs not delta's.

                  Edit: What ecu are you running? stock p13 or some generic chipped p06/p28/p72 etc?
                  Last edited by SOHC-FTW; 05-31-2012, 01:52 PM.

                  02 Crv
                  02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
                  92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
                  Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Post
                    other than that, nothing.
                    So your still running the F22 ECU - Thats your first problem.


                    Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

                    My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

                    A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

                    If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by SOHC-FTW View Post
                      Yes and i can tell you your timing's still wrong and your valves are out of adjustment use close to stock valve specs not delta's.

                      Edit: What ecu are you running? stock p13 or some generic chipped p06/p28/p72 etc?
                      i have a p28 chipped, and ill check into my timing when i can get the chance, my valve lash is already done

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The chipped ecu might very well be your issue, if you have access to a p13 i'd run that. And if you haven't adjusted your valves since that video they need redone because they were ticking quite loud.

                        02 Crv
                        02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
                        92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
                        Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Post
                          yes its a h22 head on h22 block, franken motors arent worth the work... but did u guys even bother to watch the video's?
                          fixed


                          Yes they are, but only if your making something useful out of spare parts and have already done engine builds. OR you know someone with junk that you can make usefull which would cost you virtually nothing to aquire. A motor being worthwhile depends on ones capabilities and access to equipment.

                          Did you check voltage for the ECU's pinouts when it should be turning the solenoid on? Thats where I would start, it would be pretty simple to tap into the wire and use a volt meter while driving.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by SOHC-FTW View Post
                            The chipped ecu might very well be your issue, if you have access to a p13 i'd run that. And if you haven't adjusted your valves since that video they need redone because they were ticking quite loud.
                            i had the car running fine before i did a head swap... vtec worked and everything, on the same ecu. nothing was wrong with the car besides it burnt oil and the cams had some wear marks on them, and thats why i did a head swap, so i wouldnt have down time(rather than the weekend it took). I used all the same sensor's and everything. vtec is click but it like bogs and feels/sounds like its just going to die

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Post
                              i had the car running fine before i did a head swap... vtec worked and everything, on the same ecu. nothing was wrong with the car besides it burnt oil and the cams had some wear marks on them, and thats why i did a head swap, so i wouldnt have down time(rather than the weekend it took). I used all the same sensor's and everything. vtec is click but it like bogs and feels/sounds like its just going to die
                              So then you had already swapped an engine in, and established it worked 100%. Then you did a head swap, and now it sounds terrible, and VTEC rpm doesn't seem to pull hard at all?


                              Compression check the engine, leakdown test as well if you have the ability. Double check the dizzy, and make sure the engines timing marks all line up.

                              Are you sure the "new" head you put on your old block was level and true? I presume you used a new headgasket. You could have a bad head.

                              Its usually a good idea to mill/deck engine parts that are used which came from different origins. No 2 blocks and heads settle the same.

                              BTW. H22's usually burn oil via the rings, not the head. The FRM sleeves eat up piston rings.
                              Last edited by MortsAccord; 06-01-2012, 01:48 AM.

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