Originally posted by cloudasc
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It does more than raise the boiling temp a little bit and if you truly believe that is the least important reason for it being there consider this, as I said prior I noticed that Honda_Lady said she kept adding just water, we don't know how much antifreeze is in there. The symptoms seem to be the "coolant" is boiling which causes air bubbles, you know what those can do to the cylinder walls, it may not happen fast but those little air bubbles pop against the outside of those cylinder walls and that is how cracks begin and than lead to blown motor. if that's not important than I don't know what is.
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The issue she was having started before she added any water to the coolant system.
I stand by my reasoning still that anti-freeze's least import reason for being there is to raise the boiling point of the mixture, otherwise they would call it 'Anti-Boil'. It allows colder fluid temperatures than water can offer, but only slightly raises the boiling point, in exchange for some loss in heat transfer abilities.

Water expands and turns into a solid at 32*F. A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water allows the water to withstand freezing -67*F colder at -35F, a 70/30 mix allows it to withstand an additional -32*F beyond that at -67*F, or an almost 100*F colder.Originally posted by HowStuffWorkshttp://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
•Pure Water: 0 C / 32 F - 100 C / 212 F
•50/50 mix of C2H6O2/Water: -37 C / -35 F - 106 C / 223 F
•70/30 mix of C2H6O2/Water: -55 C / -67 F - 113 C / 235 F
50/50 only raises the boiling point by 11*F.
70/30 raises the boiling point by 23*F.
A normal radiator cap at 15psi raises the boiling point by 45*F.
I have also had to deal with what sounds like the same head-gasket gremlin the op is having. Combustion gasses are escaping into the coolant system, which then forces it to maximum operating pressure allowed by the radiator cap, which then forces coolant into the overflow bottle, which will then overflow (and the source of the missing coolant).
A thermostat controls the minimum temperature of the engine.
The thermo-switches control the fans which thus control the maximum operating temperature provided there are no faults in the cooling system.
I understand very well how our cooling system works, I personally run a Mugen 1.3 Bar radiator cap, have a Mugen Thermostat (170*F), the Mugen lower temp thermo switch (180*F), and have replaced the radiator and all coolant hoses myself on my cb7.
OP: How long ago was your timing belt done, and water pump replaced? How old is the radiator cap?Last edited by cloudasc; 08-02-2013, 05:34 PM.
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ya the good thing about it is it doesn't harden like most other ones. I actually just did my head gasket after someone else had just blue devil it. And Only thing was a thin layer of blue on the gasket. Other than that nothing really. I mean in my opinion it won't damage at all and is good for a quick fix and sometimes works forever. But I would still recommend if you can doing it right. But if you don't follow instructions precisely you will be screwed in the end.
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