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H22a4 - after swap - Engine has !NO! power

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    #1

    H22a4 - after swap - Engine has !NO! power

    Hey guys,

    So yesterday I finally fired up my h22a4. A buddy of mine did the swap for me and the engine fired up right away for the first time (It's been sitting for almost a year now but not anymore :P)

    First of all, I noticed that my CEL light is ON. I haven't checked the code yet BUT:
    My O2 sensor is NOT hooked up to anything. There was no plug for my o2 sensor ANYWHERE on the harness. It's strange, but it seems like the guy who owned this cb7 before me (he was running stock f22) simply cut the plug and ditched the O2 sensor. I didn't have any CEL before the swap so im guessing he simply deleted the o2 sensor through ECU. (?)

    Secondly, when i mean no power, i mean NO POWER. Car won't accelerate past 50km/h (~30mph). I can't rev past 2000rpm(not becuase it stops but the noise is horrible and im too afraid to go any further) , i have to put it on a second gear to gain speed. at 50km/h im driving on my 5th gear and i cant accelerate anymore.
    Here is what i think: There is a HUGE noise coming from my Intake (pipe + filter). It sounds like it's sucking a hugeeeee amount of air + it whistles so badly. I'm thinking there might be a hole in my intake pipe thats creating a leak. Here is the thing - Before the swap, i had EXACTLY this same problem. Back then i didn't think it would be the intake - I simply thought that the engine was going bad. I used this same intake and filter (from my f22 for my h22 since i dont have anything else atm.)

    My question is,
    Can I hook up the o2 sensor by-myself? There are 2 wires coming from o2 sensor right? Where those 2 wires go? Hopefully that will make CEL go away.
    Also, if there was a major leak(hole) in my intake pipe, would that create extreme sucking sound and have NO power whatsoever? Or you guys think it might be something else? This intake is the only part that was used from my f22. It's weird but i didn't think it would make such a difference in power if that part was broken.

    In conclusion, (haha its like an essay) - I am currently NOT driving my car until i fix the problem. I dont want to cause any major damage to the engine since i worked really hard to get it to work.
    You guys have any idea whats going on? Where should i start? I will obviously take a look (replace) that intake but have anyone came across a similar problem?

    Thank you in advance!

    H22a4 + P13 ecu. Dizzy OBD1, resistor box removed.
    Last edited by DariuszZ; 02-28-2011, 10:47 AM.

    Tags: None
    #2
    Note:
    Do i need a second o2 sensor for that engine? Place one in a header and one in a downpipe? Or use f22 sensor, extend the connector and it should work?
    Im using f22 harness.

    Comment

      #3
      OBD1 engines only use one o2 sensor. Put the sensor in the bung that your harness will reach, and plug the other.


      Install the o2 sensor, and fix any KNOWN problems... then we can address the rest. It's nearly impossible to diagnose issues with what seems like a total hack-job engine swap while there are so many potential problems present. Eliminate the ones that you know are problems, and the rest will be much easier to discover and correct.






      Comment

        #4
        why in the world do you have no resitor box? stock injectors?
        MadLab Racing
        Southern Maryland

        Comment

          #5
          yeah. Guys with h22a4 swap just remove resistor box and use stock h22a4 injectors. Works for them.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by drummersteve7 View Post
            why in the world do you have no resitor box? stock injectors?
            my guess is he used the obd2 injecters.....any yes do as deev said.fix all known things first...also is ur vtec wires ran that could be throwing the check engine light...

            my new turbo build

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              OBD1 engines only use one o2 sensor. Put the sensor in the bung that your harness will reach, and plug the other.


              Install the o2 sensor, and fix any KNOWN problems... then we can address the rest. It's nearly impossible to diagnose issues with what seems like a total hack-job engine swap while there are so many potential problems present. Eliminate the ones that you know are problems, and the rest will be much easier to discover and correct.
              right. since im using obd1 ecu and dizzy my h22a4 is now obd1.
              So it doesnt matter if its in the header or downpipe, as long as the connector reaches. What if it doesnt?

              Also, ive been reading a lot about it now, I noticed that there is no plug going into a MAP sensor (thats on top of my IM).
              I am assuming i need to go through this http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...3&page=2&pp=20 in order to get it to work?

              Shit.... Im gonna have fun with it after im done school today lol. Perfect

              Comment

                #8
                to me the whistling sound could be a clogged catylistic converter. Im not sure but a hole in the intake would pull more air, (not that its good) but from you describing that your car won't make any power it seems as if your exhaust system is clogged and cannot flow out a the higher volume of air needed at high rpm's. i had this happen to my chevy blazer, i had a whistling sound coming from what appeared to be the engine but come to find out, a chunk of cat had broke loose inside and lodged itself sideways and i had no power and the higher the rpm's, and the louder the whistling sound would get.
                Ive heard that hard wiring the o2 sensor wires will create it to not work properly. stop by a salvage yard and pick up a plug off the main wiring harness, the original colors on the harness will eliminate any confusion about which black is black and attach it to your current one. then plug the sensor in to harness plug.


                The past, to present.

                Comment

                  #9
                  O2 sensor error will put the car in limp mode. I had one go out on me and I lost all power. I was barely able to make it home. Fix the O2 sensor and go from there.
                  Originally posted by Junior Smurff
                  Nevermind guys, google search works wonders!

                  I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!

                  Accords are for winners. And Grandmothers. But mostly winners.

                  I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by copbait View Post
                    to me the whistling sound could be a clogged catylistic converter. Im not sure but a hole in the intake would pull more air, (not that its good) but from you describing that your car won't make any power it seems as if your exhaust system is clogged and cannot flow out a the higher volume of air needed at high rpm's. i had this happen to my chevy blazer, i had a whistling sound coming from what appeared to be the engine but come to find out, a chunk of cat had broke loose inside and lodged itself sideways and i had no power and the higher the rpm's, and the louder the whistling sound would get.
                    Ive heard that hard wiring the o2 sensor wires will create it to not work properly. stop by a salvage yard and pick up a plug off the main wiring harness, the original colors on the harness will eliminate any confusion about which black is black and attach it to your current one. then plug the sensor in to harness plug.
                    this would make sense since the exhaust is yet another thing that was used with f22. Although i do not have a cat atm. Fucking guy that i bought his car from used a straight pipe. Im waiting for my cat-back full exhaust to come this week. Ill see if i can solve the problem with it. And yeah, im going to hit the junk yard sometime this week... once it gets WARMER.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      The stock plug should reach to one of the o2 sensor locations. If you need to extend it, do it very carefully. Changing the resistance could alter the o2 sensor's readings, and cause it to function improperly. If you have to extend wires, extend the wires on the sensor, or create your own subharness. Do everything you can to avoid cutting your stock harness.

                      Replace the resistor box, and use OBD1 injectors. Bring that motor back to a state that is commonly dealt with in this community, or the help we can offer will be limited. It seems that there so many custom/halfassed things done in this swap that it's VERY difficult to work through it without actually being there!






                      Comment

                        #12
                        ^ I understand.
                        I've created a priority list of what to do.
                        1. Read CEL codes
                        2. take a look at my o2 sensor, wire it and make sure it works. The guy that did the swap for me said there was NO wire going to the o2 sensor. I will hit junk yard some time soon, see where the wire is going etc. and use if i have to. I also found a link to a website that you provided with "cheap" $40 o2 sensors. Wow. Do they actually work?
                        3. Map sensor. There is nothing currently going to the plug on top of my IM. Cut the h22 harness, connect with f22. Make sure Vtec wiring is correct.
                        4. Put, real, not broken exhaust.
                        5. try then.
                        6. If funds allow, get obd1 injectors and bring resistor box back to life.

                        Sounds good?

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I would make the MAP sensor on the throttle body functional. I THINK you can use the Accord one on the firewall, but I'm not positive...

                          If the site you are reffering to is RockAuto.com, then yes, the o2 sensors they sell are Denso. Denso and NTK are the only brands known to work with no issues (many people use Bosch, which tend to fail imediately... but that's what most autoparts stores will give you, so they don't know any better.)






                          Comment

                            #14
                            im guessing if the guy that did the swap and managed to connect a map sensor correctly, then it wouldnt throw a cel for map right?

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Correct. If the MAP is working, there should be no CEL. That is indeed one thing that will definitely throw a CEL if it's malfunctioning. It's one thing that will also make your car run like crap if it is malfunctioning.






                              Comment

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