H22a4 - after swap - Engine has !NO! power

[EJX_Michael]

Well, chances are a line just got reused.

Honestly, you can put a line with any number on it from the manifold to any part. The numbers are just kind of like a road map for techs. As long as you have a line going from the intake mani to the part that needs the vacuum you will be fine.

Focus on the lines that go to the black box on the firewall first. The top 3 need to go to a vacuum nipple, the short bottom needs to go to the "ufo" on the top on the charcoal canister, and the long bottom to the EGR. Then a line directly from the intake to the FPR. If you have cruise still, that needs connected. Then you will want a line from the mani to the IAB Actuator. I think that is all that are really required. If you have any left over vacuum nipples on the mani they will need capped. A small piece of line with a screw in it will work.

[DariuszZ]

Update.
The good:
Vtec pressure switch is now connected properly (my fan switch was connected to it before), all the lines are in place (EGR valve had no lines connected at ALL), knock sensor connected, h22 map sensor connected(f22 bypassed).

The bad:
I have spent good few hours searching for that fucking O2 sensor plug going from the engine harness. At the junk yard I saw where (more/likely) the wire should be. Since my accord is a 92 EX, the plug should be going into the down pipe and not the header. The thing thats pissing me off is that i DONT see if it was cut or not. There is nothing cut on the engine harness and no left over plugs. Its just not there!!!

Solution:
The only "reasonable" thing to do is to run the 4 wires by myself.(ECU) White goes to D14 plug and Orange to A6. Black - ground, red power. Fortunately i have the female plug from the junk yard so i dont have to cut the o2 harness, just plug that female plug and run the wires.
What do you think??

[EJX_Michael]

Sure, If you really cannot find those wires you can run them yourself. The O2 harness most likely got cut extremely close to the main harness so it just looks like it isn't there.

I'm looking at some wiring diagrams and I'll let you know.


Ok...

Yel/black to PGMFI main relay
Orange/white to A6 on ECU
white to D14
green/white to D22

Make sure the wire colors are the same at the ECU before you cut anything.

[DariuszZ]

Sure, If you really cannot find those wires you can run them yourself. The O2 harness most likely got cut extremely close to the main harness so it just looks like it isn't there.

I'm looking at some wiring diagrams and I'll let you know.


Ok...

Yel/black to PGMFI main relay
Orange/white to A6 on ECU
white to D14
green/white to D22

Make sure the wire colors are the same at the ECU before you cut anything.

Just to make sure.
PGMFI main relay. Thats the one right under the steering wheel?


So 3 wires go to ECU? weird, what happened to the Ground wire?
And of course, ill make sure and use a solder.

Won't this affect the readings?

Thank you

Note:
I just checked the chassis electrical diagram and the green white wire meets also with egr valve lift sensor and throttle angle sensor. I'm assuming I cand simply cut the wire and add o2 sensor. What do you think? If I'll find green white wire from egr sensor, can I simply tap o2 wire on that? Would that work??

[EJX_Michael]

Just to make sure.
PGMFI main relay. Thats the one right under the steering wheel?


So 3 wires go to ECU? weird, what happened to the Ground wire?
And of course, ill make sure and use a solder.

Won't this affect the readings?

Thank you

Note:
I just checked the chassis electrical diagram and the green white wire meets also with egr valve lift sensor and throttle angle sensor. I'm assuming I cand simply cut the wire and add o2 sensor. What do you think? If I'll find green white wire from egr sensor, can I simply tap o2 wire on that? Would that work??

3 wires go to the ECU because the ECU also controls and provides power to the o2 sensor heater circuit. 1 for the sensor input and 2 for the heater. The other wire on the o2 is power.

It's probably best to take the wire all the way back to the ECU and splice it in just so you know its right. If you are going to search for wires in the harness though, why don't you just cut open the middle of the harness and try to find the four cut o2 sensor wires?

[DariuszZ]

Alright. Another successful night (4hrs) spent in my garage. I really should start my homework haha.
Anyways, i ran the wires from the O2 sensor. Man, if my car starts, im gonna be impressed. Its gonna blow up for sure

Another problem though. I even took a pic so that you have a better idea of whats going on.
Alright so this is the wire thats going FROM the knock sensor. I wanted to run it to the ECU. I know that there should be just one wire going into the ecu. So i used my h22 harness, cut the plug with a little bit of wire, plugged it in and sliced the wire so that i can extend it a little. This is where the problem starts. It seems like this is not just one wire, it seems like there is a wire on top of another wire. WTF? Did i use a wrong plug? What should i do? connect those wires together and run as one or use just the one thats INSIDE and ditch the one on top? Here is the pic, maybe you'll understand better?

As you can probably see, 3 cooper wires are from the main wire, and there is one more inside of the blue one - red (and inside there are another cooper). What do you think?

Lastly, Whats up with that intake control selonoid valve? Do you use it? Is it that important? Should i run the vaccum from it to the IM? There is this small UFO thingy connected to it but its all rusty and pretty much useless. Should i just disconnect the sensor thats inside the ICSV? Any ideas??

Thank you so much, almost there!

[EJX_Michael]

I think that's sheilding on the wire. Just hook the center up.

Just run a vac line to the UFO.

[DariuszZ]

I think that's sheilding on the wire. Just hook the center up.

Just run a vac line to the UFO.

got it. Ill get back to you later.

[DariuszZ]

Alright. Its 11PM, and i just finished working on my Accord.
Tomorrow i start school at 8am and i have a unit final first thing in the morning but - Fuck it! CB7 is more important.
Anyways, here it is.

The problems that i had with my H22 swap were:
- Knock sensor not connected,
- Vtec pressure switch was connected to the fan switch plug (it looks exactly this same as the vtec one).
- My o2 sensor was not plugged in at all, and there was nowhere to plug that thing in.
-My ground on the battery was S-h-i-t-y.
- ALL the vaccum lines were broken/not where they were supposed to be.
- Accord's Map sensor was not working
- Check engine lights all over the place.

Stuff that fixed it:
- Knock sensor now is run directly to the ecu using stock bb6 harness (part of it)
- Vtec pressure switch is now connected to the ecu using stock bb6 harmess (part of it)
- O2 sensor was a tricky one since i had to run all 4 wires by myself, however the wiring diagram made it pretty easy.
- Additional ground wire was added from the battery to the tranny
- Removed intake control selonoid valve and capped the nipple on IM
- Run the lines to EGR (line 16), IM (only lines 20 and 21) and under the black box (line 3) as well.
- Bypassed accords map sensor, and now im using the one thats on the IM

Once all that was finished, (20min ago) it was around 11pm at night. But i was too excited and i had to do it.... So i start her up! She run only for few seconds but i could ALREADY hear the change. Idle was amazing, no chocking or missfires. Sounded like music to my ears. She is pretty loud right now... no converter just a straight pipe. I have to take her for a spin and see. So far no CELs but like i said, she ran just for few sec.
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EJX_Michael - You are THE MAN. I thank you and respect you my friend. You've spent your time to answer my dump questions and help me out. I really appreciate that. Man, if we'll ever see eachother at any meet, you have a free beer from me!
Everybody else - I love you <3

Good stuff, TIME FOR MR!

Hopefully I won't have to get back to you anytime soon!

[EJX_Michael]

Once all that was finished, (20min ago) it was around 11pm at night. But i was too excited and i had to do it.... So i start her up! She run only for few seconds but i could ALREADY hear the change. Idle was amazing, no chocking or missfires. Sounded like music to my ears. She is pretty loud right now... no converter just a straight pipe. I have to take her for a spin and see. So far no CELs but like i said, she ran just for few sec.
---------------------------------------
EJX_Michael - You are THE MAN. I thank you and respect you my friend. You've spent your time to answer my dump questions and help me out. I really appreciate that. Man, if we'll ever see eachother at any meet, you have a free beer from me!
Everybody else - I love you <3

Glad to hear! Thanks for the kind words.

[sanJ_01]

Does it matter which hose is used where? When i put in my short ram the vac line that linked the stock intake to the iab wasnt long enough so i grabbed a number 8 hose off a h23 prelude at the junkyard, its a lot longer but it should work right?