That's not a bad idea to get it tuned enough to limp to a tuner. You MIGHT be able to do that on a basemap found on the internet (or provided by someone here), but it's never a bad idea to look at what's happening, and to learn enough to understand it. It'll also help you be able to assess your tuner. I've known some pros that have been total hackjobs. Just because they take your money and say they can do something doesn't necessarily mean they're going to do it well!
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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Tunable ECU Options?
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostThat's not a bad idea to get it tuned enough to limp to a tuner. You MIGHT be able to do that on a basemap found on the internet (or provided by someone here), but it's never a bad idea to look at what's happening, and to learn enough to understand it. It'll also help you be able to assess your tuner. I've known some pros that have been total hackjobs. Just because they take your money and say they can do something doesn't necessarily mean they're going to do it well!I'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by GhostAccord View PostYes Hondata is a board that you add to an ECU. It is hardware that you add to an ECU. You still need to modify (chip) the stock P06/P28/P72 ECU in order to install the Hondata hardware.I'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostYeah, Hondata's fairly low cost and overall popularity are its strong points. Finding a tuner that knows Hondata is probably easier than finding a tuner that knows Neptune.
I'm thinking I should just bypass doing a cheap chrome/neptune chip setup, and go straight to Hondata. That way I can take the car to virtually any Honda tuning shop, and get it tuned.
So it's looking to be $535 for the Hondata board (with boost control). I need to chip the board (with what chip?), get a Wideband, gauges etc. Or I guess I could just have them put it in for $40 extra dollars, LOL. (Them being Revline motors here in KC, seems like a great place from what I've seen online.)
I'm thinking the typical pillar pod for guages, I don't know how much that is.
Oil pressure, boost, and A/F ratio gauges are what I'll want for boost right?
Side note, what is so bad about an FMU? I know it's crude, and not for high levels of boost, but it's cheap. I really like how simple it is... But I'm pretty sure an ECU would be better, especially since I'll be playing it risky with stock internals in the first place.I'm faster then a prius
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http://www.phearable.net/engine-comp...data-s300.html
phearable seems to be cheaper than the place you are going(not by much but it is) and they are reputable im not sure about revline
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Originally posted by 93redcb7 View Posthttp://www.phearable.net/engine-comp...data-s300.html
phearable seems to be cheaper than the place you are going(not by much but it is) and they are reputable im not sure about revlineI'm faster then a prius
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Originally posted by GTRON View Postchrome
I'm thinking the typical pillar pod for guages, I don't know how much that is.
Oil pressure, boost, and A/F ratio gauges are what I'll want for boost right?
Side note, what is so bad about an FMU? I know it's crude, and not for high levels of boost, but it's cheap. I really like how simple it is... But I'm pretty sure an ECU would be better, especially since I'll be playing it risky with stock internals in the first place.
Anyway, those gauges would be good.
An FMU is an archaic way of managing your fuel. Back when you were watching The Backyardigans, folks were using those things for cheap boost solutions. ECU tuning was expensive voodoo reserved for the wealthiest or smartest enthusiasts. The rest of the people used simpler means.
Does it work? Yes. For a low boost setup, it can be effective. However, it's a bit like using a sledgehammer to build a dollhouse. It performs the basic necessary function, but it's crude, often inaccurate, and terribly risky. Just remember what happens when you go lean under boom... I mean boost.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostCrome. (put the H in there and you sound like a noob... which you are... but at least take that one small step away from noobiness!) It's like VTEC. No H.
Anyway, those gauges would be good.
An FMU is an archaic way of managing your fuel. Back when you were watching The Backyardigans, folks were using those things for cheap boost solutions. ECU tuning was expensive voodoo reserved for the wealthiest or smartest enthusiasts. The rest of the people used simpler means.
Does it work? Yes. For a low boost setup, it can be effective. However, it's a bit like using a sledgehammer to build a dollhouse. It performs the basic necessary function, but it's crude, often inaccurate, and terribly risky. Just remember what happens when you go lean under boom... I mean boost.
"Back when you were watching The Backyardigans" #savage
I actually hated that show, but that was super funny.
I just don't think it's really cheap enough (in comparison to Hondata) to do in two stages. By that I mean, doing FMU, then upgrading to Hondata later. It makes more sense to put that $150 towards a real tuning system.
How much does a tune from a shop usually cost?
I'm guessing $200-$400 range?I'm faster then a prius
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I was gonna say Teletubbies, but that was probably a bit before your time (which makes me feel super old, because I was in high school when those freaks appeared!)
It's smart not to risk the FMU. Do it as properly as your budget and patience will allow. The more corners you cut, the greater your chances of breaking something. Once you start putting your parts together, breaking one thing will very likely lead to breaking other things, and that gets expensive!
The cost of a tune can vary greatly. Some shops may charge you a set amount for a basic tune. Some shops will charge by the hour. Some hourly shops may take 2 hours to get everything set, others may take longer. The best thing to do would be to call your shop of choice and ask them 1) what engine management system they'd prefer to use on a Honda, and 2) how much they'd charge for a basic low-boost tune (no fancy parameters to set such as boost by gear or anything like that...)
One call will give you three important pieces of information: 1) if they know Hondas at all, 2) what you should buy for engine management, and 3) whether or not they're fair. Keep in mind, some shops are snobby and won't want to waste their time on a low-boost Accord. I've known shops like that (well, heard of them from other members, anyway) that charge out the ass and do a crappy job because they think the car is a joke. If you get that sense from a shop, walk away.
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