H22 Swap Question

[cis8vgti]

Yes, Phearable is the person I ordered the chip kit from. He just sent me an email asking to verify:

ECU Model
Vehicle Make Model Year
Engine Model
Engine Set Up Detail
Injector Size
Fuel Octane
Map Sensor
Disable 02
VTEC Engagement Point
2 Step Point
Shiftlight Point

The obvious stuff is easy but from Fuel Octane on down, I gotta figure this out.

[deevergote]

I'd say to leave the o2 sensor enabled. A functional o2 sensor allows the ECU to adjust the fuel levels on the fly. By disabling it, the ECU will be fueling the engine without important input. Many disable it and seem to have no issues, but I always felt that disabling the o2 sensor on anything but a heavily modified race engine (to be used in a relatively controlled environment) is pointless.

I'd also avoid the 2 step. It's just a fuel cut, which can cause harm to the engine if abused. I had a 2 step programmed into my P28 ECU before I knew any better, and it actually caused a hiccup in normal acceleration. 2 step only functions as a means of launch control. You shouldn't need assistance launching a 200hp car!

The shift light feature likely utilizes the check engine light as a shift light. It's a neat trick, but you really don't notice that light when you're racing. It's too low, and too dim. I had that in my setup as well. No harm in it, really, as the CEL still works as it should otherwise... but it's not terribly useful.

The VTEC engagement point depends on what you want out of it. An engagement point around 4800 will be barely noticeable, but will provide the smoothest, most effective powerband. A smooth VTEC transition is the most effective. However, many people like the "kick" of a higher engagement point. In fact, Honda set the engagement point high specifically for that reason. An engagement point around 5400 RPM, which is right around where it's set to engage in stock form, will make for a very noticeable lurch and change in engine sound.
I preferred mine to be around 5400. There was a bit of a dead spot between the low-RPM lobes and the high-RPM lobes, but it was just fun that way!

[cis8vgti]

Thanks for the info and explaining what 2-step is. I am going to send the seller the info tonight based on your recomendations.

I do have the injector box thingie near the driver side strut. I tested the resistance of the box using the instructions I found on this website. Using connector A as power, I tested B thru E. All connectors have 5 OHMS of resistance, so it is within the 5-7 OHM range.

This website also indicates my car has the old MAP sensor box thing on the firewall, so I do not need to hook up the MAP sensor on the throtle body? Which is the MAP sensor on the H22A4 THB? The sensor at the top of the THB or the back of the THB near the firewall?

I am starting to think when this car jumped timing, someone pulled the seats, ECU, main relay and wheels. I was wondering why this car was super cheap when traded. Gotta love the Craigslist multi trade deals. LOL.

[deevergote]

I believe the MAP is the one at the back. The one on top should be the TPS (though I'm going by memory... it's been a while, as my CB7 was wrecked last year, and I've never actually worked on an H22A4!)

If the resistor box is plugged in, then the injectors being used SHOULD be OBD1 injectors. If they're the H22A4 injectors, the box should be bypassed. I'm seriously wondering if the seller didn't just drop F22A injectors in there, though.
You might want to pick up some injectors from an Acura RDX (the turbo model.) They're fantastic injectors... probably the best OEM Honda injectors you could use. That way, you'll know for sure what you have, and it'll definitely be an upgrade no matter what it is you've got in there!

If the engine jumped timing, there may be some serious issues. The H22A is an interference engine. If the timing belt breaks or slips, pistons will meet valves. Definitely do a compression test on it before you spend money on anything else. Are you prepared to do a rebuild if the internals are damaged? If not, don't waste your money on a new ECU!

[h22sparkle]

The map sensor box is on the firewall. The tps sensor is on the backpart of the throttlebody on the passenger side when facing the car.

[GhostAccord]

I do have the injector box thingie near the driver side strut. I tested the resistance of the box using the instructions I found on this website. Using connector A as power, I tested B thru E. All connectors have 5 OHMS of resistance, so it is within the 5-7 OHM range.

If you are using H22 injectors you need to ditch the resistor box. All H22 injectors are high impedance/saturated (10-13 Ohm)

This website also indicates my car has the old MAP sensor box thing on the firewall, so I do not need to hook up the MAP sensor on the throtle body? Which is the MAP sensor on the H22A4 THB? The sensor at the top of the THB or the back of the THB near the firewall?

The OBD1 H22 MAP is the black sensor located on the top of the throttle body. You can ditch the fire wall box and hook a vacuum hose up to the throttle body mounted MAP if you want to clean the bay up a bit.

I am starting to think when this car jumped timing, someone pulled the seats, ECU, main relay and wheels. I was wondering why this car was super cheap when traded. Gotta love the Craigslist multi trade deals. LOL.

If you think it jumped timing pull the valve cover and timing cover off and look at the timing marks before you try turning it over again. if all the marks line up, borrow a compression tester and run a compression test on each cylinder.

If they don't line up, line them up and do a compression test on each cylinder and hope for the best!

[deevergote]

The OBD1 H22A injectors are low impedance, and require the resistor box. OBD2 injectors are high impedance, and do not require it.

[GhostAccord]

Shyte...my bad you are absolutely correct. It's been so long time since I worked on anything OBD1.

92-95 OBDI H22A1 = 345cc low impedance/peak and hold - require resistor box
96+ OBDII H22A4 = 290cc high impedance/saturated - no resistor box

Funny this subject has come up though.

If you can get your hands on a set of saturated 96+ H22A4 injectors to run with your chipped P06 you would be ahead of the game. The stock injector drivers in the P06 are designed to work best with high impedance injectors. That's not saying low impedance injectors with the resistor box won't work.

[deevergote]

The 1996 Prelude had the H22A1 still, though it was OBD2. I'm honestly not sure which injectors were used for that. I'd imagine they still used the low-impedance injectors, since it'd be silly to make such a change for one model year.

Isn't the P06 designed to run low-impedance injectors in the 92-95 Civic? Or is the ECU set up for high-impedance injectors, and then run through the resistor box to properly operate the low-impedance ones? I believe I read somewhere that without the box, the OBD1 ECUs are properly set up for high-impedance injectors.

[GhostAccord]

I'll be honest with you, i'm pretty sure that all 90-98 Honda ECU's use high impedance drivers. The resistor box was an add on. If you really want to run Peak and Hold injectors to work at their best. there is a stand alone peak and hold driver set that is available. I bought one from Bowling and Grippo a few years back. Really makes a difference when you run the drivers designed to work with the injectors.

[deevergote]

Interesting. I wonder why Honda designed it in that way. Perhaps the peak and hold style was cheaper to produce?

[cis8vgti]

Sorry guys. I have been super busy and did not get a chance to provide the info the chip maker is looking for.

I forgot to mention the chip maker is asking for the 'shifting point'. What shift point RPM should I select with a 5400 VTEC kick in point?

Yeah, the exhaust cam was like 5 teeth off from the intake and crank TDC. I have another H22A4 that threw a rod straight through the block. I can use that head or replace the valves in this head since it looks recently rebuilt. I do not understand why rebuild a head and use a tensioner that looks like it went through WW2? It was littered with hammer marks. It probably failed and allowed the timing to jump.

[GhostAccord]

I would suggest that you replace the stock H22 Auto tensioner and go with a manual tensioner upgrade. F22/H23 manual tension kit is pretty cheap. Or there are some DIY manual tensioner mods that you can find online that seem to work on the cheap.

[deevergote]

What "shifting point" do you mean? The point for the shift light to go on? That's up to you. It has nothing to do with the VTEC crossover point, really. With a 5400 crossover, you'll possibly end up shifting into a dead zone anyway, or shifting after the engine has passed its optimal powerband. A lower crossover is better if you want optimal shift points. You won't get that fun kick, though... and to me, that's worth the loss of performance! I think I had mine set at 7200, with the rev limiter at 7600... I may be wrong, though. It's been a LONG time.

[92LxCoupe92]

I would suggest that you replace the stock H22 Auto tensioner and go with a manual tensioner upgrade. F22/H23 manual tension kit is pretty cheap. Or there are some DIY manual tensioner mods that you can find online that seem to work on the cheap.

the "ghetto tensioner" method works great its much easier to get the timing belt on than using an h23 manual tensioner, and it's 125$ cheaper than the ks tuned version It only takes about 10 mins to rig up if you have the old auto tensioner too!