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Old 10-22-2017, 02:35 AM   #1
AmTeC
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Unhappy Simplest way to replace rear engine mount?

So I'm like 90% sure my rear engine mount is bad, Steering wheel vibrates at idle, and the mount (Auto, DX) holds no vacuum at all from the line that leads to the solenoid. Now my question is, is there any detailed guide I'm not seeing here on how to replace the engine mount without removing the intake manifold? I'd rather not mess with the manifold and its many gaskets and vacuum lines, someone told me you can do it from underneath with a couple jackstands, but didn't elaborate further. I dont get how its done, Arent the mounting bolts up top? How would you reach them from below? I removed a 5 spd rear mount from my other CB, but that was with the engine out, and from up top.

Also the matter of the mounts themselves, There are a few on RockAuto, I'm concerned about the quality of the mounts. I want one that will do its job at least mostly as good as the OEM one. Where I live, a lower balljoint for my CB cost me $80 at the dealer, I'm afraid to see how much a mount would cost.
But I've also read in a number of different places that the aftermarket mounts cause the same vibration im trying to get rid of, or they just tear apart after like 3 years and need replacing again, has anyone bought one of the ones on rockauto and can confirm whether its worth the cost or hassle? Theres like 5 of them, and I cant tell if one looks of higher quality than another.
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:44 AM   #2
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I'd be interested to know too. I purchased a rear mount but have yet to install. I think I learned my lesson with the cheap stuff on RockAuto though. I orderd the cheapest driver's side mount they had and it's almost funny how badly it fit.

So I figured it was worth a few extra dollars to get something that actually fits before I ordered my new rear mount.

I don't think it's necessary to take off the intake manifold. That seems overkill to me. Intake tube/airbox, battery, the black box with the map sensor in it on the firewall...I think removing that stuff would get you close.
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Old 10-22-2017, 01:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfisafleek View Post
I'd be interested to know too. I purchased a rear mount but have yet to install. I think I learned my lesson with the cheap stuff on RockAuto though. I orderd the cheapest driver's side mount they had and it's almost funny how badly it fit.

So I figured it was worth a few extra dollars to get something that actually fits before I ordered my new rear mount.

I don't think it's necessary to take off the intake manifold. That seems overkill to me. Intake tube/airbox, battery, the black box with the map sensor in it on the firewall...I think removing that stuff would get you close.
I looked at a couple reviews on the rockauto mounts and it seems most of them are total crap, Not sure about the Beck/Arnley one, its the most expensive one. I guess I might just get the overpriced OEM one just to be on the safe side, I wouldnt wanna do this twice.
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Old 10-25-2017, 10:26 PM   #4
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Yeah but the honda one is over $200 or thereabouts isn't it? If I could take a chance to save $170 on the cheap one, I'd go for it. The one main one I know of that's crap is the drivers side MRC brand one. I got a cheap dogbone for the front and the trans mount and they fit ok.
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:11 PM   #5
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When I changed my rear mount, I took off the Intake manifold plenum to get to the mount. It just makes it easier to reach down there without the throttle body in the way so it can be done. You may have to loosen the engine bracket to get you some more room to work with. It will be a bit of a pain in the ass but it is possible. Brush up on your tetris skills beforehand.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:29 AM   #6
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I replaced my rear mount a few weeks ago. It wasn't too difficult, but then I already had the whole top of the motor off and could reach it easily.

First I should say I am making no claim as to the merit of these parts, I am only relaying my experience with them.

First I bought an Anchor brand mount- the actuator was jammed and would not rotate with vacuum. I tried to exercise the action but the assembly started to come apart. I returned it.

Next I bought a Beck Arnley mount - this one was better, but it had an issue with the vacuum diaphragm. I was able to swap in the one from my old mount, and it worked properly. It rotated with vacuum and freely rotated back.

I had my intake (and head) removed at the time, so it wasn't too bad reaching it from above. Even though I could reach it easily, getting it out was a challenge. I had to jack up the motor in order to get clearance to slide the thing out...this took a while.

Ultimately...I'm not sure it made any difference at all. I've now replaced 2 of the 4 mounts and the car still shakes like all hell on low idle. If I'd had the ability to see the future, I would not have bothered messing with it, honestly. Just my .02.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:55 AM   #7
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As old as these cars are chances are your other two mounts are fragged too. When I first got mine running it was shaking like hell, made worse by the fact that the idle was hunting. I replaced the driver's side and it improved quite a bit. I've since replaced the front and passenger's side units and it's waaaaay better. I imagine once I do the rear I'll be able to stack champagne glasses on it.
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:28 AM   #8
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Get an innovative rear mount for your cb. Lifetime warranty and you can get them with 75a urethane. Or just get the whole kit for about $300 or so.
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Sheds_Jackson View Post
First I bought an Anchor brand mount- the actuator was jammed and would not rotate with vacuum. I tried to exercise the action but the assembly started to come apart. I returned it.

Next I bought a Beck Arnley mount - this one was better, but it had an issue with the vacuum diaphragm. I was able to swap in the one from my old mount, and it worked properly. It rotated with vacuum and freely rotated back.

Ultimately...I'm not sure it made any difference at all. I've now replaced 2 of the 4 mounts and the car still shakes like all hell on low idle. If I'd had the ability to see the future, I would not have bothered messing with it, honestly. Just my .02.
My mechanic told me for an aftermarket engine mount, the Beck Arnley would be my best bet, I read reviews showing the same results as you, Mount working okay, but vibrations still bad, The only reason I want to replace it is to stop the vibrations, I have no shifting problems or anything. You say you switched out the vacuum diaphragm from the old mount onto the aftermarket one. I think the problem with my OEM mount is the diaphragm itself, it doesn't hold a vacuum at all, its totally open from somewhere and I can hear hissing up close, Is there any way I can acquire and replace just the diaphragm?

As for the other mounts, They seem OK, I know the rear is bad in one way or another, so thats what I want to tackle first, it is also the most difficult so I want to get that out of the way before spending money on the others.

Personally I dont mind the vibrations, I actually sorta like it, It just sorta adds a more human aspect to the car, I can't quite explain. The vibrations annoy my parents whenever they drive it or sit in the passenger seats, and I wanted to stop the vibrations to get them to quit complaining and telling me to buy something newer. If it seems like a lost cause or way over budget, I will leave it alone.
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Old 11-17-2017, 05:01 PM   #10
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I am not sure if they still are available but I would suggest getting Honda OEM mounts & not any aftermarket ones unless you are going to use some decent poly mounts.

I used some aftermarket ones & they SUCKED. They semed okay before I installed them but then I found out how soft they were when I did a hard pull. I am not sure of the brand but I got them off of ebay.

The installation of the rear mount is a PITA but, you CAN replace it WITHOUT removing the Intake Manifold. I did it by myself you just have to be patient with how you wiggle out the rear mount. There is limited space towards the firewall but it CAN be done. Use some long, long extensions to loosen up the bolts that hold the mount to the frame. As well as crawling underneath to loosen the bolts for the "t bracket" that holds the rear mount in place. It is also tough to get the rear mount back in place due to the limited space. Keep on going & you will get it!!

I am not going to speak on the other three mounts because it is obvious to replace those.

Good luck.
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Old 11-17-2017, 05:05 PM   #11
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Also you definitely want to replace the mounts because a buddy of mine had a EG Hatch with a B20 with horrible mounts. The mounts were sagging so bad that it put the axles at a weird angle & destroyed the differential in the transmission. (That plus his dumb GF doing Reverse to first gear burn outs lol.)

I also started to have similar symptoms before I pulled my F22 when I would make a hard turn from a stop, I could hear my trans making a really loud noise. But, it did not make the noise if I made a hard turn from a stop very slowly.
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Old 11-29-2017, 04:20 PM   #12
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Simplest Ive done it is my removing the down pipe and cat, i remove the front torque mount, intake manifold support bracket and i loosen both pass and driver mount, then i remove the rear engine bracket with the help of a friend or family member (you chose) to pivot motor(by self if no axles are in) then pull mount install new one and reverse. me personally start to finish 2 hours start to finish. just did it 2 months ago.
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:32 PM   #13
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Just remove intake tube. With the right sockets and extensions, it can be pulled up that way. No need to go through all that other crap.
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