breaking in engine

[v8vega355]

im thinking about breaking in my engine in n/a then bolting up the turbo later and i am wondering if anyone has tried to run the bisi 1.2 cam without the turbo on the stock ecu and other parts.

im wanting to know how did it run. was it worth breaking in on the bisi cam or would you just run it with the stock cam on break in.

[Domesticated]

im thinking about breaking in my engine in n/a then bolting up the turbo later and i am wondering if anyone has tried to run the bisi 1.2 cam without the turbo on the stock ecu and other parts.

im wanting to know how did it run. was it worth breaking in on the bisi cam or would you just run it with the stock cam on break in.

It "breaks in" the same regardless of the parts. Millions of cars go hundreds of thousands of miles without being "broke in". Built it once and do it right. I've never broke in an engine more than checking bolt torques.

[deevergote]

The stock ECU probably isn't going to like that cam very much. I'd run a stock cam until you install the turbo.
What internals are you running? I'm assuming that since you're going boost, and talking about breaking the engine in, that you've installed proper forged internals... What's the compression ratio? If it's far from stock, the stock ECU won't like that at all either.

Do you have the means to tune the ECU yourself? A simple street tune should suffice, just to get things running smoothly. Do that, and the internals and camshaft should be fine. It probably won't be all that fun to drive, but it'll be safe and driveable as long as you do it right.

As for breaking in... just follow the normal procedure for breaking in a new engine. You can buy special "break in oil" to help everything seat and seal properly. This link here addresses it quite well.

[v8vega355]

The stock ECU probably isn't going to like that cam very much. I'd run a stock cam until you install the turbo.
What internals are you running? I'm assuming that since you're going boost, and talking about breaking the engine in, that you've installed proper forged internals... What's the compression ratio? If it's far from stock, the stock ECU won't like that at all either.

Do you have the means to tune the ECU yourself? A simple street tune should suffice, just to get things running smoothly. Do that, and the internals and camshaft should be fine. It probably won't be all that fun to drive, but it'll be safe and driveable as long as you do it right.

As for breaking in... just follow the normal procedure for breaking in a new engine. You can buy special "break in oil" to help everything seat and seal properly. This link here addresses it quite well.

since i dont receive emails from this site correctly i forget when i post so sorry it took so long.

yes all forged internals stock ports on the head compression of 9.1:1. i just wasnt sure how much the cam would be off from the stock cam since it is a smaller turbo cam.

[v8vega355]

It "breaks in" the same regardless of the parts. Millions of cars go hundreds of thousands of miles without being "broke in". Built it once and do it right. I've never broke in an engine more than checking bolt torques.

the reason i wanted to bolt on the turbo later is because i have a delta 272 and i wouldnt mind seeing how it ran on the built bottom end before the turbo

but i dont want to break it in with the 272 cam

[turboHLS30]

I'm running a Delta 272 right now with a .025 decked head, gutted H23 runers, IAB delete plate, gutted H22 plenum, F20B 62.5mm TB, DC header. Right now it's on the stock ECU, and it doesn't like idling when it's cold, or for the first 10 minutes of running. It runs really rich, I just got 81 miles to a half tank of gas in my wagon, and I still have the F22 trans. It sucks if you have a nice clutch in it as well. Sometimes mine likes to buck and act stupid.

[CB7Denmark]

I'm running a Delta 272 right now with a .025 decked head, gutted H23 runers, IAB delete plate, gutted H22 plenum, F20B 62.5mm TB, DC header. Right now it's on the stock ECU, and it doesn't like idling when it's cold, or for the first 10 minutes of running. It runs really rich, I just got 81 miles to a half tank of gas in my wagon, and I still have the F22 trans. It sucks if you have a nice clutch in it as well. Sometimes mine likes to buck and act stupid.

What exactly did you gut in the plenum and runners? I can partly understand the iab delete, but what would you gut from the mentioned above?

[ninjawagon]

As far as " break in" you can use not Synthetic oil for the first couple hundreds of miles. But I have seen better results as for power and reliability when you just drive a 100 miles on conventional oil and then just go run it hard on the dyno. As for the cam just make sure your cold start idle is up in the normal rpm range as not to starve to cam of oil and scoring the cam.

[turboHLS30]

What exactly did you gut in the plenum and runners? I can partly understand the iab delete, but what would you gut from the mentioned above?

What used to look like this:



Now looks like this:

[evilbender]

this is exactly what i wanted to do with mine! lol
How much if a difference did you end up ssing.

[turboHLS30]

this is exactly what i wanted to do with mine! lol
How much if a difference did you end up ssing.

Well I did that, and I'm using a JDM Manual F20B 62.5mm TB, as well as a completely rebuilt head, decked .025, PnP'd, and the Delta 272 cam. So coming from an A1 that was running on 3 cylinders, it's a hell of a difference! lol But now I'm running a F22B1 trans :/ Right now, untuned with the F trans, I lost to a H22 CD5 sedan by a car and a half; and a '00 SI with bolt-ons by 2 cars. Not bad for an EX wagon that's fully loaded minus A/C lol