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Old 01-15-2015, 02:35 PM   #1
Cb7Dee
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Transmission shifting problem

I have a 1990 accord sedan f22a1 manual trans and the problem im having right now is with the car not wanting to go into gear while running. When the car is off i can put it into gear and start the car but when i have to shift the trans has a hard time going into the next gear and will sometimes either grind or not go in at all. When coming to a stop i have to i have to take the car out of gear or it will stall itself out even with the pedal down engaging the clutch.
My first thought was to replace the slave and clutch master cylinders so i did along with changing the oil in the transmission. Even after doing all of this im still having the same trouble. I was told the clutch and throw out bearing could be bad but the clutch doesn't slip at all & im not hearing any noise indicating that it would be a throw out. Im going to take the trans out soon but untill that happens is there anyone here that has experienced similar problems and could help or give any suggestions?
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:38 PM   #2
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Sounds like you still have to bleed your master and slave more.
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:23 PM   #3
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Yea i think im gonna try that a few good times because the pedal has quite a bit of play in it now that i think about. Thanks gonna try it when i get the chance.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:45 PM   #4
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how much of a clutch pedal do you actually have...what i mean by tht is how far do you have to push the clutch pedal before it engages the flexplate?
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:54 PM   #5
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No flexplate in a manual transmission.

Sounds like your pressure plate is done. Plan on replacing your clutch. Don't forget a new Honda pilot bearing while you are there.
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:46 PM   #6
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Im not sure it's almost about half pedal before it does.
If the bleeding doesn't work looks like the clutch is what I'll be replacing next along with whatever eles.
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:48 PM   #7
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Everything you're describing are things that I've experienced myself after changing my clutch hydraulics. It was just a matter of bleeding. I tried EVERYTHING. If you search my post history, you can find multiple threads on it! My friend eventually pried on my shifter fork at the slave, and we managed to get full pressure. Anything else before that was only half pressure, no more. Not enough to be able to shift into gear with the engine running.

While djcas_aom has a point about the pressure plate, it's PROBABLY not the problem. Could be, but it's most likely that it's just a hydraulic bleeding issue.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:02 PM   #8
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You can tell if it's a hydraulic problem or not by looking at the clutch fork under the hood and seeing how much it moves while your buddy presses the clutch.

If it's moving the whole amount of travel smoothly then hydraulics are good and time to look at the fork, pressure plate, disc and all that.

If it's not moving at all or very much then you still have air in the system, or your master or slave are bad
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:31 PM   #9
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Those are both good points guys. I was under the impression that he already checked the movement of the slave cylinder.

The one place that I have found that gets trapped with air, is the 20yr. old dampner. I always delete it.

So, I would look at that slave before taking the tranny off. Good call guys.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:21 PM   #10
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So i bled the car some more again an started it up tonight and still no luck. When i started it the shifter did go into reverse which it wasn't before BUT while the clutch was still in the car was moving in reverse. Tried 1st gear and wouldn't go into gear but the moving forward with the clutch in happened in 1st too. Looks like im gonna have to look into the transmission at this point.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:37 PM   #11
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Pressure plate my man
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djcaz_aom View Post
The one place that I have found that gets trapped with air, is the 20yr. old dampner. I always delete it.
After I deleted my damper I had no assistant on hand to help bleed the system, so just did a quick 'rough bleed' on my own as best I could. When I later did have an assistant I bled it again properly, and no air came out...
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:58 PM   #13
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Sorry for hijack, but did the clutch feel different after deleting the damper?

I deleted the damper on my NSX and after that now at high rpm (6000+) I get a rough feeling in the clutch when I shift. I don't like it actually--it feels like something is not right in the clutch to me.

Just wondering if the same thing happens to the CB7
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Old 01-19-2015, 07:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aventari View Post
Sorry for hijack, but did the clutch feel different after deleting the damper?
Yes. Check this recent thread:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=205682

Quote:
Originally Posted by aventari View Post
I deleted the damper on my NSX and after that now at high rpm (6000+) I get a rough feeling in the clutch when I shift. I don't like it actually--it feels like something is not right in the clutch to me.

Just wondering if the same thing happens to the CB7
I don't know why you would be getting a "rough feeling in the clutch" when shifting at high rpm. With my damper delete I haven't noticed anything I could describe as 'rough', but I also don't know what "rough feeling" is actually describing...

I also don't shift at rpm over 6000, the f22a9 doesn't really do anything worthwhile much above that...
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:08 AM   #15
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If the clutch hydraulics are up to par, the clutch is highly suspect then. Get an Exedy OEM replacement clutch kit off Amazon.
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Old 01-20-2015, 06:33 PM   #16
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That is the master and slave for you're clutch are bad mine did that too changed them bleed them and its good to go it took me for ever to bleed them by hand but that's what that is
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Old 01-20-2015, 06:54 PM   #17
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Did you not see that he replaced both of them already?



It's a bleeding issue. That's all it is. My car was down for months (ok, years, because it's a project at this point...) because of a clutch hydraulic bleeding issue. Trust me... it's just a bleeding issue. Try prying on the fork where it meets the slave. That's what finally worked for me.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomd1203 View Post
it took me for ever to bleed them by hand but that's what that is
As implied in my earlier post, the damper appears to be a significant air trap. Deleted my damper and it almost bled itself, dead easy.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:11 PM   #19
Cb7Dee
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Extremely late on the reply but it was the clutch. Replaced it a few weeks after my last post and has been driving nice ever since. I also removed the damper was a big help.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:50 AM   #20
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Just as a follow up on bleeding these clutches. I've had many problems doing this but the last time, I did it in under 5 minutes, by myself. I did this by pressing in the clutch like normal with the slave cylinder open, then squeezed all the rest of the travel out of the slave cylinder by hand. Did this about 6 times and clutch was perfect! I know this doesn't help the the topic at hand but might help others bleed their clutch much easier.
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