swap time *H22a all day*

[Andrewasoar]

so here it goes, lil back round on the situation at hand. I been having the car for 14 years running this f22 on and off as a daily driver. about four months ago i was driving to work and when i pushed the clutch in she stalled out. i poped the clutch and she fired back up. got up to the stop sign and rpm dropped low and the oil ligth started blinking real faintly. i pulled over checked the oil, all was good. it only did it at idle. so since i was far away from home i jus kept it slightly reved at a stop. all signs pointed to a pressure problem but since that oil light is really only good for tellin you your in trouble i couldnt be sure. i contiuned to drive the car on and off because it would only do it after she got good and hot. i installed a oil pressure gauge shorlty after and noticed good oil pressure when cold but then she would drop to 0psi. all the while the top end had been gettin louder and louder, plus my clutch and or transmission was starting to slip and get stuck in gear, kinda like something was broke inside. when she was slightly reved at around 3krpm the rattiling from the motor was very bad. so i said hell with it. time for a new motor.. so here we are now. time to swap

Wow those words kind of touched me. I had an 85 Accord I lost in September but it was doing the same and I was looking into a new motor. And now my CB7 is doing the same. Going to follow this thread for sure. Haha.

[kratemertyl]

new plans.
right now im trying to get all my ducks in a row before i start the disassembly. With the car sitting as is now i have several issues to work out.

1) obviously the motor. The goal is, a fully built, boosted daily driver. I would like to build the motor strong so it has no problem handling mild to moderate boost. the plan is to pull and dissasmble. i need to find a good combination of parts to use as internals before i take it to the machine shop, ( crank, rod length, bore size and piston type) compression ratio is whats kinda got me hung up. being effeciant and effective is the balance i wanna maintain.

2)while this part of the motor is progress i have a suspension issue to tackle. the car has been sitting on air ride susspension for 10+ years so i am going to pretty much need new everything. the only thing i think thats gonna be worth retaing is my upper front and rear swaybars.
again with the suspension, i wanna be agrresive but also not have to rack my head on ever bump or replace my tires every 3months from camber issues.
i know im going to have to go with some traction bars and some heavy axles but other then that i am lueless to a good suspension set up.
i am currently running some 18"s and im almost certain 17"s will ride and fit the car better. but i would really like to save some money where i can, so if i have to sacrafice a little comfort for the 18"s then ok. but if its gonna casue an issue with running the appropriate susspension then they will have to go.

3) lastly is the appreanace. out with the white. the new color is still in the works. also the z3 fenders the predetor hood and the front bumber are all out.. im gonna source some stock fenders and a stock bumper. im undecided on the hood yet, i want it clean like a stock one but i wouldnt mind the weight reduction of a carbon fiber.

there is gonna be a TON of small stuff that is gonna make this a pain in the ass i know so all those that have expertise on the big stuff i am all ears and open for suggestions. i got about $2,500 right now to get the ball rolling and then the rest will come as the extra dough comes. so the quetstion is, where shall i start.......

well i found a guy sorta local that is going to do my short block for me. im gonna pull the motor saturday and then strip it sunday. it will be interesting to see what exactly happen inside it and y it left me on the side of the highway. as long as all is well with the block i think im going to run with the f22 crank out my old motor, bore the block to fit 88mm JE pistons and then some eagle rods to fit the F crank. the shop will bore, sleve, assemble and balance for me. i guess this is the time to remove the balance shaft as well. also i seen talk of micro polish the crank? whats that involve?

[kratemertyl]

how bout bearings, i know ther are race bearings that are cut in a way to allow more oil flow but are they really neccesarry at 400hp? and is the oem oil pump sufficient ?

[kratemertyl]

Well motor is out, I'm trying to take the head off but these bolts are super stubborn. Two are out but the rest are putting up a good fight. I've tried breaker bar with cheater pipe an also a 1/2 drive impact. I dumped a bunch of pb blast in there to sit overnight. Any other ideas people?

[ferenza]

The only other way im thinking you can pull them is by air gun.
Nice that you are rebuilding the cb again.

Im pretty sure oem bearings can take the extra horsepower and the same with the oem oil pump new. Ive never really heard of the oem pump giving out so easily, only when they are worn out or due to lack of maintainence.

[kratemertyl]

i gave it a try this morning and still no dice. im really worried about breaking one of these bastards. im wondering if puttin some heat on it would be a good idea. im jus kinda worried how the aluminum will react

[Stoner51]

my f22 took a long ass breaker bar.
and it would prob help if the motor was still in the car with the 4 mounts still holding it.
My thought towards heat would be it might warp the head some.

steve

[kratemertyl]

well there you are, i was starting to think i was on my own here. i have a big ass breaker bar but its got me nervous. i let this industrial type lubricant called acf-50 sit on it over night, this stuff is bad ass i just dont know how well of a penetrator it is. im gonna give it another go at lunch and see if i can get luck. when i put a wrench on the drive pulley to try and take it off it actually turned a lilttle bit. soooooo im anxious to see what really happen. im leanng more towards a spun bearing or something. either way im gonna punch it out for an 88mm pistons

[Raf99]

well after reading all these pages, I'm sorry for your lock-up.

I'm thinking too much seafoam. Too much will cause a hydrolock and I'm thinking this is what happened, maybe you thought the same?

As for the head bolts not coming out, it sounds like something else is going on here. You need to use a impact gun on them so you don't twist/break them. You mentioned you are using a 1/2" impact, but at what PSI?

[kratemertyl]

mystery solved!
well after one broken socket and one broken 3/8 breaker bar all head bolts are out.
i have a 1/2 drive ingersol rand impact, model number im not sure. i had that puppy cranked up at the regulator at like 150psi. volume wise though im wondering if my supply hose is too small on the ID. ill look into it later. cause that thing is supposed to have like 650 lbs/trq in reverse
what ended up doing the trick was and impact grade socket, a 1/2 drive 18" breaker bar, a 12" cheater pipe, the penetrating fluid and a hole lot of ass.
after the head was off i aobseved that the two cylerd walls i could see appeard to be in perfect order. so i rolled the motor over pulled the pan, saw heavy chunks of metal in my pick up tube, removed that and that gerdal that holds the crank down. still didnt see anything so i proceded to the remove the cap off the number 3 piston connecting rod and there she was. one completly shreded rod bearing. the two halves were paper thin and wedged up into oneanother.
easy fix if i were to jus buy a few replacment parts but nah. so i got it down into short block form. im assuming my crank is toast, so i think i wanna use the one out of the f22. what are the pros and cons to this decison? also what size connecting rods will be used ill put a mic on it and measure when i get it out just wondering at the moment

[NTYPE]

Quick note about the race bearings is that they do wear out considerably faster than the standard ones.. I personally think the standard ones would be sufficient (provided they're a quality brand of course)

[Jarrett]

You can't simply bore out an H22A block. The cylinder walls are constructed of FRM and will only handle an overbore of about .25mm which is not much at all.

The F22A 95mm crankshaft is certainly an option. Before I explain know that this will put you into a territory in which there is no factory ECU that you can run right out of the box. You must get a chipped ECU with a basemap for an H23A VTEC as that's essentially what you'll be creating. I say essentially because the cam profiles and compression ratios will be different and that's significant. Drummersteve seems to have good H23A VTEC basemaps from what people say on here.

To use the 95mm crankshaft you'll also need to use the F22A rods as the H22A rods are 1.5mm longer and will cause the H22A piston to protrude too far out of the bore. Since your H22A is OBD2 the pistons you have use a floating pin and not a press-fit wrist pin like your F22A rods are made for. You can either have the OEM rods rebushed to fit floating 22mm pins or you can purchase the F22A forged rods on eBay. With the JDM H22A piston this will put you at roughly 11.6:1 CR and 0.020" out of the bore. The F20B runs this clearance with the Type S cams from the factory so you're fine there, however the room for error is marginal. I would recommend getting a 5-layer Fel-Pro head gasket at 0.045" and having the peace of mind. Your compression would also drop closer the 11.0:1.

All of this is applicable assuming the engine has 55mm main bearing diameters.

[LowFlyin']

I know you have them out, but this would be more for those reading through the thread with the same problem.

The threads on the head bolts are several inches away from the head of the bolt, so applying heat to the bolt and cylinder head isn't going to get the heat down to the threads in the block. Same thing with the penetrating oil.

Glad you got them off. I was having a similar issue with the F22 I just pulled, but since I'm building an H22 to go in, my curiosity quickly faded when the bolts were being stubborn and I tossed it in the scrap pile.

[kratemertyl]

half my reasoning for boring the motor was to re sleve it to get out those FRM composite joints that are in there. i have been weighing the option on if all the machine work is worth it turning it into a 88mm bore but if i want it strong and reliable running boost those sleves should go right? keep in mind im thinking about 8-10k in budget and lookin for 500hp. but in that budget i need to re work the suspension and the few other details as far as power transfer goes.

i will have to pull one of my pistons today and look for this floating pin, because i am still not convinced that this is an obd2 motor. the only indication that it may be is the map sensor on the TB but i have seen others like that.

as far as crankshafts go im back to the drawing board.
i could tell something was wrong with my F22 when i decided to pull it, i just didnt know what. well last night i went to pull the crank out of it and discoverd yet more torn up bearings. these where not that bad but they had seperated and started to gouge. how much damge they did to the crank is hard to say. to the naked eye it doesnt look bad but, this whole motor build kinda revolves around that one very important key component.
so now that im buying a new crank what shall i do.
i seen these crowley stroker kits with 100mm crank, rods, pistons,pins, rings, studs, allready balanced and ready for install for 3,500 bucks. seems like alot of money to pump out at once but it may save alot of headache. i would still need to machine the block to fit the oversized pistons. so maybe another garand there.
i do have a virgin p28, would that be compatible for a H23 basemap?

[Jarrett]

What does the year stamp on the block say that it is?