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Old 02-13-2018, 10:49 PM   #181
CyborgGT
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I've kind of fallen off following Boosted Boiz and their eBay builds. Did you see how much the wheels on the van moved in those dyno pulls? A simple traction bar might very well have saved the gears from blowing so soon.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:34 AM   #182
baracuda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CyborgGT View Post
I've kind of fallen off following Boosted Boiz and their eBay builds. Did you see how much the wheels on the van moved in those dyno pulls? A simple traction bar might very well have saved the gears from blowing so soon.
Yea they love to cut some corners for sure, the van even had the crank pulley fall off on the dyno. I watch it just for dumb fun entertainment, waiting for the van to blow.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:21 PM   #183
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That guy seems like a good tuner.. he reminds me of my tuner, knows Honda's like the back of his hand lol

Looking forward to see your build completed man keep up the good work.. post some vids of him tuning it
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:07 PM   #184
Bunta
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I'm so glad that people are still doing N/A builds (like this one). It kinda is discouraging when everyone stops building beyond bolt ons and then decides to just boost it and be done. I've ridden/ driven low 11 second boosted cars and built all motor cars and IMO boosted cars lack the sporty feel of a good, thorough N/A build (but they do pull like a freight train if built right). Keep up the good work, I'll hopefully be using your success to build off of.

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Old 02-16-2018, 07:54 AM   #185
CyborgGT
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I went all motor because I feel like that's how a Honda should be. That, and I just feel like turbo is cheating... I don't even mind using a pun and saying it's unnatural. I won't be doing myself any favors building a car NA for high-elevation mountain cruising, but I still feel I'll enjoy the rawness more. Our most powerful NA list is definitely motivating as well.

What I like about Brent is that while PFI's specialty is Hondas, he seems especially enthusiastic about the H22, where most seem to prefer the obvious B or K. Combine that with how people come from out of state (hell, even out of country - BB showed that Land Cruiser from the UAE) to have this guy work on all sorts of cars, I know it'll be in good hands.
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:13 PM   #186
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Well, some serious shit's happened in the home life in the last month or so and it's got the build on hold. Still trying to be shopping for a wagon by the end of the summer, though... provided the right one shows up for sale. I can't likely take short-notice vacation time off work, so looking too far afield for a chassis isn't going to work.

But anyway, a month and a half ago, I dropped some things off to be powder coated - and what a birthday gift! They went a couple weeks over the "month" I was quoted (even though I told them on day one that there's no rush, no deadline), so they felt bad and gave it to me for free. I kinda feel bad about not paying, but it's not like I won't have a ton more parts to coat later on. I'm sure that's what they were hoping for anyway. We got as close as we could to Toyota's Quicksand color, which the bay will eventually be matched to. The car will be built to drive, first and foremost, but I've been going to car shows since I was a kid and would love to have something worth showing myself one day. The bay will be clean. That said, parts to be colored tan were chosen very carefully:

- Only the rear of the engine mounts, since it's the only one that bolts to the chassis. Rear subframe will be made tan when I get it. The other mounts will be silver to match the trans/engine they mount to - the plastic timing covers will be painted silver to simplify and clean up that side.

- Most of the ESP traction bar. I'm thinking that I'll like having all of the car's suspension arms, knuckles, etc coated this color as a nice contrast to the black underside of the unibody, so I went beyond just the bar itself and had the radius rods coated. The interior of this dark blue wagon will be custom-upholstered tan, so the tan suspension pieces should all flow nicely. The top mount for the torque strut sits against the engine, so that will be silver. I left the torque strut itself polished because I can't imagine it looking right if it were any other color. A tan torque strut would make it look like the engine bay was propping up the engine, and anything else would stand out in some other ugly way.

- The oil pan... more 'just because.' It used to be a metallic orange, because I thought I was going to get Bisi cam gears and thought that would make for a cool matching accent. I guess I could have gone silver, but I think that wouldn't have looked right. Imagining a look from under the car, I think this will look best. I spent a full hour reapplying the DEI heat tape, trying to have it lay as smooth as possible.



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Old 05-02-2019, 11:21 PM   #187
CyborgGT
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Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with ceramic coating the exhaust? I was thinking about doing the whole system, but now I've been reading into it. Having to coat both the inside and outside of the pipe rules out parts like the cat and mufflers, so it doesn't make sense to have gaps. But the big thing was that I read an article claiming that you don't want to coat too far down the exhaust system anyway, the theory there being that while you want the heat contained and speeding up the exhaust gases close to the source, at some point it should be cooled off again. Anyone know the science or theory on that cooling further down the system, or if it's false?
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:32 AM   #188
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I have my turbine housing coated as well as my old manifold and turbo coated. They didn’t do the inside of the manifold or turbine. But I think doing your entire exhaust wouldn’t net you much gain. Most people coat more for keeping underhood temps low. I don’t know the science behind whether exhaust should cool or not. It will help with spool time but I believe it’s no more then a couple 100s rpm.
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:32 AM   #189
CyborgGT
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Living at 5,000ft and having the not-so-bright idea of staying naturally aspirated, I'm willing to try every trick in the book to extract every bit of power out of the parts I've collected. Aside from keeping temps low, from what I understand the fact that the heat is kept inside the pipes is supposed to speed up the exhaust a bit more and help with scavenging and velocity. Coating the inside means another layer to contain the heat and help against interior corrosion. After reading, the plan now is to just coat the header/downpipe and the test pipe that I'll throw on occasionally.

Thinking over that "cool down" idea that I mentioned, I'm guessing that because the heat dissipates out of the non-coated pipe, maybe it then becomes easier for the hotter exhaust to push it along? Less resistance and therefore more power? I'm sure it is all small gains, like you say, but if I find enough tricks to try, a little here and a little there is bound to add up to something significant. It might not be a bad idea to ceramic coat the intake arm as well, to block out engine bay heat...
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Old 05-05-2019, 02:28 PM   #190
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I wouldn't overthink it. The largest resistance that the slug of exhaust gas is going to see is the exhaust valve. After the collector, the initial pressure wave (or waves in this case) lose so much energy that they can be effectively ignored.

Hot air increases the speed of sound (acoustical vibrations, pressure wave, therefore scavenging) , not so much the flow of gases.

I'm getting the headers for the E46 coated and have been doing a bit of research myself. Reducing engine bay temps is probably the largest benefit.

I think there's an engine Masters video on it as well.
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