Questions on installing an alarm in my 90 Accord LX Sedan.

[Bad_dude]

I was thinking, if the thief gets into the car and he cuts the power wire to the brain then the alarm is then useless right? So what if I run 2 power wires to the same wire to the brain. Once wire goes from the plug in the side kick fuse box and another wire from the ignition harness behind the steering column, or would any one suggest direct from the battery? Of course I'll fuse both wires to the brain.
I have below some pics of the plugs under the driver's dash area where the alarm would be wire to. I am going to number the pics, perhaps some experts would charm in to tell which number of the pic is useful to the install and which part of the install, like power locks, power windows, ect...
Thanks.

Pic 1: with the steering cover removed.


Pic 2: same area steering cover removed.


Pic 3: the plug is deep behind the steering column area still with cover removed.


Pic 4: How do you remove this cover to get at the wires below? Do we just pull or is it screw or bolt on? I don't want to force it and break it.


Pic 5: Driver's fuse box.


Pic 6: Do we need to get at that plugs with millions wire running horizontal above?


Pic 7: Are these plugs involve in the alarm install?


Pic 8: Another look at the same plug above.


Pic 9: This little green plug looks like either power lock or power windows.


Pic 10: Don't know if that plug is involve.


Pic 11: That harness looks like it includes all of the need wires. Scary.


Pic 12: A look at the main relay way up behind the cruise control.


Pic 13: Steering column area.


Pic 14 and 15: the fuse box area wire plugs.



Pic 16: Distributor area wire plugs.


Pic 17 and 18: What are these plugs?

[Bad_dude]

Here's an example of a stealth install.

Some of the alarm systems don't come with hood or trunk pin switch. I know I could buy them separately but will the brain has a wire to connect the switch to? I want both hood and trunk pin switches, would I be using the single wire from the brain if it has one?
Thanks.

[RUGER 2.2L]

I know I have seen someone on here put a trunk actuator on their car. I want to say it was a factory actuator from an acura vigor or something?? I will try and dig up the thread.

Edit: Ah I see you already found this thread lol

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...trunk+actuator

Yeah it was this guy. Acura CL solenoid. Maybe shoot the guy a PM about it for some advice

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...trunk+actuator

[Bad_dude]

I know I have seen someone on here put a trunk actuator on their car. I want to say it was a factory actuator from an acura vigor or something?? I will try and dig up the thread.

Edit: Ah I see you already found this thread lol

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...trunk+actuator

Yeah it was this guy. Acura CL solenoid. Maybe shoot the guy a PM about it for some advice

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...trunk+actuator

Thanks man. I saw those already. I think I got an idea of how to do it. The question now should I get the actuator or the solenoid? I am leaning toward the Viper 350 Responder but it does not have remote start, but I don't need it. The Audio Vox Prestige APS997C, not as popular as the Viper, it has remote start. I like the Prestige b/c it has 2 blue very bright LEDs on the antenna which can be shining over the dash at night. I read the manual for the Prestige, and it looks difficult with all the info on relays and all. I can't get my hands on the install manual for the Viper as only installers and dealers have access to the site manuals. Compustar systems, though good but you have to buy the remotes and antenna separately from the systems.

[H.M.]

Rather than double wiring the power to the brain, just get a battery back up. If someone accesses the engine compartment and removes your 12v the alarm will still be active.

Personally, I'd stick with DEI as they make Clifford, Python, Viper and a few other brands. All their sensors, battery backups, sirens, etc are interchangeable and their wire color scheme is consistent.

Pic # 6 shows the empty plugs above the fuses where you can get Constant 12v.

#7 Green connector has the trunk pin wire (Green/Black). Brown connector has the door trigger (Black/White)

#16 the two plug connector has a blue wire. That's the tach, needed if you do auto start.

One plug you missed - Power lock and unlock. Located under the carpet below the drivers side fuse box. 2 plug connector.

[Bad_dude]

One plug you missed - Power lock and unlock. Located under the carpet below the drivers side fuse box. 2 plug connector.

Hey,
Is that 2 pins connector the main power lock switch? Or is that just for the front driver's door? I want to set it up so one press opens the front driver's door and 2 presses opens all 4 doors. Could you get a pic on that connector, if you have it? When you installed yours, did you take the fuse box cover off or just left it like that? Also the panel below the steering cover, pic 4, how do you take that off? Just pull it out hard and it will come off or is there a trick to it?
Thanks.

[Bad_dude]

Pic # 6 shows the empty plugs above the fuses where you can get Constant 12v.

I see 4 empty plugs total, plug 1 being higher than the other 3, which one of those plugs are constant 12V, or all 4 are constant?
Thanks.

#7 Green connector has the trunk pin wire (Green/Black). Brown connector has the door trigger (Black/White)

The door trigger, how does that work? It that to the dome light which turns on whenever any door opens or that (Black/White) only trigger for one door? If that wire is just for the door trigger, what about the dome light function, where would that wire be?

#16 the two plug connector has a blue wire. That's the tach, needed if you do auto start.

That tach wire must go behind the cluster some where or does travel some in the cabin to make it easier wire rather than running all the way from under the hood?
Thanks.

[H.M.]

Don't know about the tach wire. That was the only place I could find it and I just wired it when I did my siren.

Not sure on this (I've looked into it but am still confused) but I think Suspended Hatch wires the door trigger and dome light together then ties both into the brain. I don't want the dome light supervision so I'm not concerned with this.

At least 1 of the empty plugs is constant 12v, one is activated with ignition and I think one comes on with lights. Not sure on this yet...

A 12v test light would tell you and you'll want one to double check all your connections anyway.

[H.M.]

Re: the two pin connector for lock / unlock.

Just pull up the carpet under the fuse box. Mine was wrapped in blue tape.

Unlocking just drivers door and then other doors on 2nd press is called "2nd Unlock" and is a programmable feature of the Clifford alarm. I thought I read somewhere that it requires a relay for the other doors but I can't find that reference now.

[Bad_dude]

Re: the two pin connector for lock / unlock.

Just pull up the carpet under the fuse box. Mine was wrapped in blue tape.

Unlocking just drivers door and then other doors on 2nd press is called "2nd Unlock" and is a programmable feature of the Clifford alarm. I thought I read somewhere that it requires a relay for the other doors but I can't find that reference now.

What I usually do when I find a good article, I print it to PDF file and keep them. You never know when the writer decides to remove the pictures or the info. We need some one who's done the entire install on this door stuffs. Lol. With time we can figure the wires. Just like the car stereos, just wires and ground concepts.

[Bad_dude]

Re: the two pin connector for lock / unlock.

Just pull up the carpet under the fuse box. Mine was wrapped in blue tape.

Unlocking just drivers door and then other doors on 2nd press is called "2nd Unlock" and is a programmable feature of the Clifford alarm. I thought I read somewhere that it requires a relay for the other doors but I can't find that reference now.

Are you talking about this?

[H.M.]

[UrDoneSRH]

I will do my best to remember to get those pics for you tomorrow at work I just get busy a lot and forget unless its slow and I start browsing forums.

I will also try to remember to get the pdf of an install manual and email it to you.

The viper 350 has 2 trigger wires, but you can easily expand how many triggers you have by adding a diode for each added trigger. You can also add a mercury (aka tilt) switch incase the car is getting towed or put on a flat bed.

Back up battery is most definately the way to go.

[Bad_dude]

I will do my best to remember to get those pics for you tomorrow at work I just get busy a lot and forget unless its slow and I start browsing forums.

I will also try to remember to get the pdf of an install manual and email it to you.

The viper 350 has 2 trigger wires, but you can easily expand how many triggers you have by adding a diode for each added trigger. You can also add a mercury (aka tilt) switch incase the car is getting towed or put on a flat bed.

Back up battery is most definately the way to go.

Thanks bud. Could one of those triggers use in the remote start since the system does not?

[Ralphie]

Thanks bud. Could one of those triggers use in the remote start since the system does not?

Sorry I didn't answer you earlier.

No I have not done it to my car so that's as much advice as I can give.