If your car is smelling like fouled eggs, you need to check the catalytic converter. You mentioned you already tested this? How did you test this? Considering that your car has most likely never had the catalytic converter changed. On the 5 Accord's I've owned, all had the original catalytic converters in them still. Chances are high that yours still has the stock one in it as well. The extra back pressure could be causing extra strain on the engine in stop and go traffic causing the MPG's to go down.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
poor city gas mpg unless i drive on highway for a bit?
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by Rilas View PostIf your car is smelling like fouled eggs, you need to check the catalytic converter. You mentioned you already tested this? How did you test this? Considering that your car has most likely never had the catalytic converter changed. On the 5 Accord's I've owned, all had the original catalytic converters in them still. Chances are high that yours still has the stock one in it as well. The extra back pressure could be causing extra strain on the engine in stop and go traffic causing the MPG's to go down.
Comment
-
Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostWould this be a smaller powerband in lower rpm's like idle to 2k. Can you elaborate. AM assuming if it is clogged a bit it would run rich natively and ECM would try to lean it out as it wouldn't detect as much oxygen as it should. SO then it would lower fuel output, right? This would be more city driving while on the highway it would detect a closer rich mixture to 14.7 to 1. Maybe 12 to 1 or something. This gets a little confusing cause i have no ideal the algorithms the car uses for fuel output. And i have no way of testing instantaneous air/fuel mixture. My explanation really makes no sense as why doesn't it then lean it out more in city. I am sure i have a rich condition and not lean causing this issue. As i can sometimes smell a light raw egg smell and my engine doesn't overheat as it should in a really lean condition. I have oil temp sensor installed on car also.
Car runs pretty smoothly and powerband seems consistent. So i am leaning back to what you said earlier about vacuum leak somewhere. I have checked everywhere except the back bottom of plenum(hard to reach) and the butterfly plate gaskets(2 of them) have been replaced recently so i kind of ruled that out since this problem existed before.
You are right on the ECU lean/rich mixture, but you are also running in a steady state condition on the highway...blah, blah, blah essentially. Have you read your spark plugs?
Your best option would probably be to pick up A/F gauge of some sort and verify if you really are running rich.
Comment
-
Unless they are excessively leaking, they will only build up enough oil on the backside of the valves to burn off after sitting 8+ hours. If they are excessively leaking then I could follow that train of thought.
I still feel as though you are grasping at the wrong things hoping it will help. Or possibly are just as stubborn as I am in certain things and are not willing to listen to some sound advice.
Second if there is a rotten egg smell its one of 2 things. Either way your going to need to fix either of them.
1. Battery - Your battery is on it's way out and can give off this smell.
2. Catalytic Converter - You don't live in California, buy an $80 Magnaflow Hi-Flow catalytic converter that is bolt on. No welding of flanges, just cry as you cut your rusted on catalytic converter studs/nuts off. (I can usually get 1 of 3 on average, even with soaking it in penetrating oil for days ahead of time. Re-coating a few times a night, as I have my own garage it can just sit in. Even with a pneumatic impact gun.)
Vacuum leaks can occur in a ton of places on the intake manifold. You have something like 10+ o-rings/gaskets that are at best 25 years old, at worst 28 years old. All of them can be brittle and cracked causing minute air leaks. I've recently been rebuilding an F22A6 to put back into an Accord. I replaced every non paper intake gasket with OEM gaskets. I have absolutely no doubts that the intake is properly sealed. Every gasket that was replaced broke upon coming out due to shrinkage and brittleness. I'm sure some of them were leaking.
You have to remember that the valves on the intake also come apart and have internal o-rings to themselves that need to be replaced as well.
Third if your so overly concerned about things such as an air intake leak, you need to build yourself a smoke tester and come up with some way to provide some air flow to it. Borrow a friends pancake air compressor if possible, if you don't already have your own. This will undoubtedly let you find any leaking spots. (I had an air leak on my 3rd gen TL, and with the air leaks it had, I would have paid thousands of dollars for the amount of time/labor it took to find them all and fix them. I did it myself with a homemade smoke tester, I believe Sonik did the same thing trying to find an air leak on his Prelude.)
Fouth, have you adjusted your valves recently? If so have you verified that it was done correctly if not done by yourself? If not you can check it in a few hours with basic hand tools and a feeler gauge.Last edited by Rilas; 01-31-2018, 09:15 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Rilas View PostUnless they are excessively leaking, they will only build up enough oil on the backside of the valves to burn off after sitting 8+ hours. If they are excessively leaking then I could follow that train of thought.
I still feel as though you are grasping at the wrong things hoping it will help. Or possibly are just as stubborn as I am in certain things and are not willing to listen to some sound advice.
Second if there is a rotten egg smell its one of 2 things. Either way your going to need to fix either of them.
1. Battery - Your battery is on it's way out and can give off this smell.
2. Catalytic Converter - You don't live in California, buy an $80 Magnaflow Hi-Flow catalytic converter that is bolt on. No welding of flanges, just cry as you cut your rusted on catalytic converter studs/nuts off. (I can usually get 1 of 3 on average, even with soaking it in penetrating oil for days ahead of time. Re-coating a few times a night, as I have my own garage it can just sit in. Even with a pneumatic impact gun.)
Vacuum leaks can occur in a ton of places on the intake manifold. You have something like 10+ o-rings/gaskets that are at best 25 years old, at worst 28 years old. All of them can be brittle and cracked causing minute air leaks. I've recently been rebuilding an F22A6 to put back into an Accord. I replaced every non paper intake gasket with OEM gaskets. I have absolutely no doubts that the intake is properly sealed. Every gasket that was replaced broke upon coming out due to shrinkage and brittleness. I'm sure some of them were leaking.
You have to remember that the valves on the intake also come apart and have internal o-rings to themselves that need to be replaced as well.
Third if your so overly concerned about things such as an air intake leak, you need to build yourself a smoke tester and come up with some way to provide some air flow to it. Borrow a friends pancake air compressor if possible, if you don't already have your own. This will undoubtedly let you find any leaking spots. (I had an air leak on my 3rd gen TL, and with the air leaks it had, I would have paid thousands of dollars for the amount of time/labor it took to find them all and fix them. I did it myself with a homemade smoke tester, I believe Sonik did the same thing trying to find an air leak on his Prelude.)
Fouth, have you adjusted your valves recently? If so have you verified that it was done correctly if not done by yourself? If not you can check it in a few hours with basic hand tools and a feeler gauge.
Comment
-
Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostO-rings and everything else pretty has been checked or replaced. Most likely replaced. Even the fitv and the eacv(the one beside it that controls idle on electrical output). Bad stem seals = oil contamination through the exhaust system. Oil in the exhaust system = fouled oxygen sensor(s). Fouled oxygen sensor(s) = fail safe mode in the engine control unit (computer). Fail safe mode = full rich fuel mixture, which explains bad mileage. That is a possibility is it not? I've had the valves adjusted but not personally checked and done by myself. I am going to replace cylinder head soon regardless. So then i'll see wasup.
Also you may have checked the initial ones, but the FIT valve has 4 o-rings on it alone. 2 on the face that mounts to the plenum, 1 on the top, and 1 on the bottom under the covers. Same goes for the other valve on the side of the plenum.
One of my Accords when I first got it burned oil all the time, through the valve stem seals. It still got better mileage then you are now. There is something else going on, you just need to start doing a few things, like reading your plugs. Check the work that other people have done to your car. It's not their car, so most of the time they are not going to care enough to do the best job possible. While yourself on the other hand has something at stake for doing it right. Money out of your pocket that goes into gasoline, it's in your best interest to have the car running top notch, for the engine, driver, and peace of mind.
Also a smell of rotten eggs is clearly a sign that something is wrong, no matter how much your unwilling to admit it. Your car is clearly telling you it needs some tlc... Just some food for thought.Last edited by Rilas; 02-01-2018, 02:57 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Rilas View PostHighly unlikely, unless you have an CEL for a bad EGR. They are most likely leaking so slightly that it's not having much of an effect on overall condition of the exhaust mixture.
Also you may have checked the initial ones, but the FIT valve has 4 o-rings on it alone. 2 on the face that mounts to the plenum, 1 on the top, and 1 on the bottom under the covers. Same goes for the other valve on the side of the plenum.
One of my Accords when I first got it burned oil all the time, through the valve stem seals. It still got better mileage then you are now. There is something else going on, you just need to start doing a few things, like reading your plugs. Check the work that other people have done to your car. It's not their car, so most of the time they are not going to care enough to do the best job possible. While yourself on the other hand has something at stake for doing it right. Money out of your pocket that goes into gasoline, it's in your best interest to have the car running top notch, for the engine, driver, and peace of mind.
Also a smell of rotten eggs is clearly a sign that something is wrong, no matter how much your unwilling to admit it. Your car is clearly telling you it needs some tlc... Just some food for thought.
Comment
-
Originally posted by zedjr10 View Postcrappy before also. The car sat for 3 years before that. Am about to replace head or replace valves. Not sure which yet.
Comment
-
I am pretty sure the valve seals are gone. Has all the symptoms and it has been on car for 26 years now.The head itself might be fine. I might just have a valve job done as that is alot cheaper i bet. It's about 700 dollars to replace head including the parts. Is there a good reason to machine head and do all that stuff in addition to replacing valves?
Comment
-
Not sure why you created a whole new head for this matter. When you can just continue the discussion in here.
Valves don’t just go bad, unless they are burnt or bent. So replacing them all just seems pointless. If you are that worried about it, I would pull the head, buy supertech valve stem seals and take it to a machine shop and have them do the works on the head...I.e. ( 3 angle valve job, pressure test, valve stem replacement, resurface). This should cost no more then $350 including the valve stem seals.~Nick~
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93
Comment
-
Originally posted by Grumpys93 View PostNot sure why you created a whole new head for this matter. When you can just continue the discussion in here.
Valves don’t just go bad, unless they are burnt or bent. So replacing them all just seems pointless. If you are that worried about it, I would pull the head, buy supertech valve stem seals and take it to a machine shop and have them do the works on the head...I.e. ( 3 angle valve job, pressure test, valve stem replacement, resurface). This should cost no more then $350 including the valve stem seals.
Comment
Comment