H22. Best way to make the most tq and less hp.

[Mayhem Tripp Robinson]

The Class that I am racing with is a points based class for lb/hp based kind of thing.

My question what would be the best way to make more tq with the h22a.

I am not going to swap in a f22, or an h23 as I still want to change stuff back to get the hp back up.

tripp

[wherm]

Look into an LSD and Final Drive, and play around with your wheel/tire size. MFactory has a couple available, 4.64 and 5.15. The 4.64 gives you an ETE (Engine Torque Equivalent) increase around 9%. The 5.15 is 21%. I don't think it actually changes HP/TQ numbers, (I'm not sure on this, I know it improves acceleration and decreases top speed) but it gives you an advantage on the gearing end.

The LSD will ensure that your torque reaches the pavement.

[Mayhem Tripp Robinson]

as in like 150-160 tq.

I DONT WANT MORE THEN 165 WHP

[91H22ACB7]

H23 crank and rods with h22 pistons and a well thought out exhaust.

[Mayhem Tripp Robinson]

I have the t2t4 trans with a 4.6 now and need more

[toycar]

Torque responds to pressure, and HP is yielded from flow.


Basically, choke the motor down, use a smaller diameter exhaust, a smaller TB etc.


You'll get better response, but your higher rpm will suffer.


The science term that applies to the relationship between torque and horsepower is;

"Work done over time"


In that phrase, torque is the actual "work done" and "over time" is referring to HP. HP is a measure of force over time, or how quickly you can duplicate the torque.

Torque is the actual force.

Thats why larger exhaust creates HP at higher RPM. The larger diameter can flow more at higher RPM, but torque suffers down low since the CFM of the motor isn't on par with the diameter of the pipe, until it reaches higher RPM's therefore it is unable to create pressure-which robs you of torque just like running an exhaust with no cat converter. Yeah theres gains to be made on the HP side of things, but torque suffers especially in a 4 cylinder.

This is also why Honda uses a dual runner intake system on some models. Smaller intake runners generate pressure faster, and at a given RPM the secondary runners open to better suite what the engine is drawing in. This approach is for making the most torque, for a better powerband.

[toycar]

Also, I would spend some time thinking about what RPM you spend most of your time at while racing, and get with a custom cam company such as BISI and explain what you are trying to do.

They will be able to get some minute information from you, and help you achieve the most torque for an ideal powerband without getting over that HP number. You dont want to have to rev to 6500 rpms to make optimal power, if you NEVER see that during a race.

[Straight Success]

Longer heavier rods for increase stoke (longest stroke permissible) and added mass.

Basically, from the definitions of each, increase your lever arm (moment arm) with the same input force, and the added mass will decrease your AMA which will lower your work output. Less work per time leads to lower HP, and the increase in stoke raises the torque.

Edit: I read the other suggestions, and the gearing would be my first choice. This is just another idea.

[SNOOZE]

the "tri-y" header makes more torque than hp compared to regular headers

[Mayhem Tripp Robinson]

I have to have a power to weight ratio at about 17.333 right now may car 90 ex is 2730 so my power could be 157.5 would be my max aloud hp.

[Mayhem Tripp Robinson]

I dont really see my car ever going over 140 at the track. so I think I am going to run a 5.15 finale drive. Unless some one can find me a bigger one

[toycar]

I dont really see my car ever going over 140 at the track. so I think I am going to run a 5.15 finale drive. Unless some one can find me a bigger one

Probably the best bet. That and getting cams setup specific to your driving desires. Your driving an h right?

Cams can make a huge difference where your powerband is without necessarily making more power.

[Straight Success]

We actually had a design problem like this last term in a class called Machine Theory & Design. We had to take a high revving motor, and build a car that ran, not just spinning wheels in one place. The motor had tons of torque.

It all came down to us building a drive train. The gearing was everything. That is probably your best bet. Not matter what route you take, you know you're going to spend a few.

I actually learned a sh!t load from that class, not just about gears, but a lot of other stuff as well.

[Mayhem Tripp Robinson]

Yeah The gear alone is 800. dollers. if i Put a 4.6 in the accord stock trans it come really close to the stock t2t4 trans and if i put the 5.15 in it would be all most the same as doing the 4.6 in the t2t4 trans, So in my class I would have taken 6 points for the t2t4 trans. but if I take a f22 trans and do the 5.15 trans I take no point. (I have to take 3 points for the lsd + 6 point for the t2t4 trans) humm so f22 trans with the 5.15 gear seem the way to go for that.

So when I build my trans im going to use the h2a5 trans, This gear, the h22/f22 5.15 750.00

this lsd-http://www.teammfactory.com/helical-lsd 685

and this rebuild kit http://www.teammfactory.com/carbon-lined-synchros -275

[MortsAccord]

So your trying to obtain a high torque level without producing a LOT of HP right?

Engine

Stroke it, check the difference in F22b1 and an H22a4, stroke is 3.3mm difference and with a compression ratio of 8.8 instead of 10-ish it still has a lot of tq. F23 engines are nice. You could swap cranks.

Cam it for lower rpm with some adjustable cam gears.

Rebuild with over 12.7:1 compression ratio and use a tiny turbo with E85, and as small of an intake volume post compressor as possible-consider no intercooler with water/meth injection if detonation becomes an issue even on e85.


As others have said modify gear ratios to obtain better acceleration, be it rim/tire combo, or actual gearing modifications.

Do some brake work for better stopping efficiency, a vehicle that can brake later in a turn than the next guy wins races.


How do they dyno your car? brake or wheel hp? if its wheel hp it wont matter to run certian rim/tire sizes, if its brake hp, then you can take advantage of lighter smaller rims and tires, as small as you can get that will clear the rotors.

If you do make too much power here are easy ways to tone down a beast in the upper end.

Put in a restrictive air filter.
Tune it leaner/richer than optimal in the higher rpms.
Ignition timing adjustment.
Run a grade thicker oil.(you should be racing on straight weight anyways- who needs pour point depressents taking up your additive package?)

4-2-1 header with 1.75 inch exhaust.