Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Vehicle overcools AFTER a new thermostat

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Vehicle overcools AFTER a new thermostat

    I searched but didn't find any clear answers.

    My cb would both

    - overheat after highway driving when stopped and idling
    - overcool in a variety of situations just driving down the road and take a long time to warm up.

    I know this seems contradictory. The temperature of the heat blowing out of the vents corresponded to the temperature gauge - that is it would blow cold when it said cold and hot when it said hot.

    It would overheat to about the 3/4 mark and start to go back down with full blast heater on and runs cool at around the 1/4-1/3 point.



    I replaced the thermostat with a Honda one and the rad cap with a 16lb generic. It now runs steady at 1/3 point and blows warm air.
    I removed a non honda thermostat (came with car) and what I think was the original rad cap.

    It has been in the 20s around here which is unusually cold for the area. I'm using 50/50 antifreeze.

    What's going on?

    I want to drive up to NY (4 hours) but don't want to cause damage and rather have a warm engine.
    Last edited by aluminum13; 12-16-2010, 02:06 PM.

    #2
    I guess water pump or air in your coolant lines.
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

    Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

    Comment


      #3
      drive it.
      I <3 G60.

      0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

      Comment


        #4
        feel the top and lower hose when the engine is warm or over heating. are they the same temp, if so then that confirms a good thermostat.

        bleed the system (with heat on full blast) with the 8mm bleed valve on the thermostat housing. leave it open till there is no bubbles.
        What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

        You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

        Retro!

        Hater

        I love nooBs...They make me look good

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by GeoffMisiak View Post
          I guess water pump or air in your coolant lines.
          I replaced water pump myself when I did the timing belt maybe 15k ago. How would I know if there's a problem with it? (No coolant leaks.)

          As for the air...(see below)

          Originally posted by wed3k View Post
          drive it.
          Probably will. Cute girl waiting for me in NY>warm engine.

          Originally posted by accordztech View Post
          feel the top and lower hose when the engine is warm or over heating. are they the same temp, if so then that confirms a good thermostat.

          bleed the system (with heat on full blast) with the 8mm bleed valve on the thermostat housing. leave it open till there is no bubbles.
          As for the air...I flushed and drained the coolant. There were some deposits but nothing terrible, but enough to partially clog the FITV coolant line a while back. I did use the bleed valve and burped the upper hose.

          How long should the bleed valve stay open? A few seconds and it seemed like a good stream so I shut it off. Longer?

          Also I think the bleed valve is 12mm. The one on the t-stat housing.


          I'll try more air line clearing.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by aluminum13 View Post
            As for the air...I flushed and drained the coolant. There were some deposits but nothing terrible, but enough to partially clog the FITV coolant line a while back. I did use the bleed valve and burped the upper hose.

            How long should the bleed valve stay open? A few seconds and it seemed like a good stream so I shut it off. Longer?

            Also I think the bleed valve is 12mm. The one on the t-stat housing.

            I'll try more air line clearing.
            maybe more air worked its way through the system

            Ride List
            1990 Accord dx coupe - my baby (dsm turbo set up in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202853
            2005 Mazda 6s - daily driver http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3171724(totaled)
            newest 2006 mazdaspeed 6 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/4073987/2006-mazda-mazda6

            Comment

            Working...
            X