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    Bypasing FITV

    Perks to bypassing FITV on H22. I have read several people say i'm bypassing the FITV your car will ideal better. I have never heard of this on the f22 atleast. But on the h22 it seems like a very common thing. Anyone have any insight on this when it comes to the h22 with the FITV on the throttle body. Any downsides or anything really positive out of it. Hit me with what you got guys unless you have a strong right hook then please don't hit me.

    #2
    It won't help your car idle better...it may make it idle worse.

    The FITV does the same thing on every Honda engine...allows more air in when the engine is cold and less when it's hot.

    Positive: you don't have to worry about it breaking if you delete it.

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      #3
      I got these, the way I understand it is the idle may be too low when its extremely cold out..Ill deal with that by bumping up the idle speed for the winter or use my foot not a big deal. Dont need the air boost plate because JDM H22a's dont have air boost..but yeah I dunno I dont think itll be detrimental to delete it and on the plus side there wont be any heat soak to the intake from the coolant passing through.

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        #4
        I think i'm going to go ahead and not delete it. When you guys take off your radiator cap while the car is running do you see the water moving? It seems my water isn't really moving through the radiator and the block well. Like it doesn't over heat. But the air gets mediocer warm and if I look at the water in the radiator it is just kind of sitting there. And my top radiator hose never gets warm.

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          #5
          Originally posted by andrew22888 View Post
          I think i'm going to go ahead and not delete it. When you guys take off your radiator cap while the car is running do you see the water moving? It seems my water isn't really moving through the radiator and the block well. Like it doesn't over heat. But the air gets mediocer warm and if I look at the water in the radiator it is just kind of sitting there. And my top radiator hose never gets warm.
          hmm..im confused..but the FITV has nothing to do with coolant except the temperature of it makes a little plunger move in or out to adjust more or less air flow.. Sounds like you have a bad thermostat..failing water pump, crusted up coolant passages, clogged radiator; any or all of the above.. Sounds like its time for one of those cooling system flushes. First thing Id do is test or replace the thermostat.

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            #6
            I really hated the bouncing idle issue I had and even after doing numerous "resets" of the plunger valve. It came to the point where I had to block it off with bymaking a custom throttle body gasket because it still leaked air.

            The custom JDM "Honeynut Cherrios gasket" lasted for a good 2-3 years until I decided to take off the throttlebody to see the difference in the opening to a 74mm throttle for DIY porting.

            I then decided to do it the right way and by billet blockoff plate.

            An easier way to do this is to just buy a OBD2 throttlebody since there is no FITV at all and just coolant in/out taps. You will have to block off the MAP sensor ports up top off if you aren't obd2 tho but it's a lot easier if you aren't doing your own block off plate mod with s 7-up can or home depot sheet metal.




            Furthermore, if you have a chipped ECU, you can adjust the duty cycle of the air coming inside the intake manifold electronically if your IACV or FITV is screwing up. I have no more bouncing idle issue since I can totally disable these valves. When disabled the car will idle at 900ish by default no matter the engine load.

            I agree tho, if your upper radiator hose isn't getting warm by the 1st or 2nd time your fan comes on, there is something up. I'm thinking water pump but blocked passages can play a role too.

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              #7
              if you are looking for a non FITV throttle body you would want to look for a 98+ OBD2 or a JDM non FIT throttle body. The USDM OBD2 96-97 TBs still use the throttle body mounted FITV.

              FYI, A piece of gasket material sandwiched between the FITV and throttle body works great if you don't want to spend the money on overpriced block off plates.


              As far as your heating issues, change the thermostat and while your in there flush out your heater core and radiator.
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                #8
                Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                and on the plus side there wont be any heat soak to the intake from the coolant passing through.
                Heat soak...from coolant? The only way that the coolant is warmer than the intake manifold is if you have phenolic gaskets.


                Originally posted by Warudakumi View Post
                Furthermore, if you have a chipped ECU, you can adjust the duty cycle of the air coming inside the intake manifold electronically if your IACV or FITV is screwing up. I have no more bouncing idle issue since I can totally disable these valves. When disabled the car will idle at 900ish by default no matter the engine load.
                Duty cycle is a term for injector efficiency. The IACV is the only valve of the two that has an electronic connector and likewise the only one that can be disabled.
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                  #9
                  Ya i'm going to flush my coolant. To see if this helps. Also I have a obd2 throttle body with the map on it and it still has FITV

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                    #10
                    Yes the 5th gen OBD2 Accords still use a FITV mounted on the throttle body, I think the H22A4 does as well. The 6th gen, F23A OBD2 Accords do not use the throttle body mounted FIT valve.
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