Perks to bypassing FITV on H22. I have read several people say i'm bypassing the FITV your car will ideal better. I have never heard of this on the f22 atleast. But on the h22 it seems like a very common thing. Anyone have any insight on this when it comes to the h22 with the FITV on the throttle body. Any downsides or anything really positive out of it. Hit me with what you got guys unless you have a strong right hook then please don't hit me.
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I got these, the way I understand it is the idle may be too low when its extremely cold out..Ill deal with that by bumping up the idle speed for the winter or use my foot not a big deal. Dont need the air boost plate because JDM H22a's dont have air boost..but yeah I dunno I dont think itll be detrimental to delete it and on the plus side there wont be any heat soak to the intake from the coolant passing through.
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I think i'm going to go ahead and not delete it. When you guys take off your radiator cap while the car is running do you see the water moving? It seems my water isn't really moving through the radiator and the block well. Like it doesn't over heat. But the air gets mediocer warm and if I look at the water in the radiator it is just kind of sitting there. And my top radiator hose never gets warm.
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Originally posted by andrew22888 View PostI think i'm going to go ahead and not delete it. When you guys take off your radiator cap while the car is running do you see the water moving? It seems my water isn't really moving through the radiator and the block well. Like it doesn't over heat. But the air gets mediocer warm and if I look at the water in the radiator it is just kind of sitting there. And my top radiator hose never gets warm.
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I really hated the bouncing idle issue I had and even after doing numerous "resets" of the plunger valve. It came to the point where I had to block it off with bymaking a custom throttle body gasket because it still leaked air.
The custom JDM "Honeynut Cherrios gasket" lasted for a good 2-3 years until I decided to take off the throttlebody to see the difference in the opening to a 74mm throttle for DIY porting.
I then decided to do it the right way and by billet blockoff plate.
An easier way to do this is to just buy a OBD2 throttlebody since there is no FITV at all and just coolant in/out taps. You will have to block off the MAP sensor ports up top off if you aren't obd2 tho but it's a lot easier if you aren't doing your own block off plate mod with s 7-up can or home depot sheet metal.
Furthermore, if you have a chipped ECU, you can adjust the duty cycle of the air coming inside the intake manifold electronically if your IACV or FITV is screwing up. I have no more bouncing idle issue since I can totally disable these valves. When disabled the car will idle at 900ish by default no matter the engine load.
I agree tho, if your upper radiator hose isn't getting warm by the 1st or 2nd time your fan comes on, there is something up. I'm thinking water pump but blocked passages can play a role too.
I am the Yakuza CB7!JDM 96spec H22A 178HP 149TQ
"The JDM Fleet"
1993 Accord Sedan - 2.2 JDM H22a1994 Prelude V-Tec1999 CL 3.02000 Prelude2010 Accord Crosstour - 3.5
1993 Mirage S Sedan - 2.0 4G63 Project Evo 2.51994 Mirage S Sedan - 1.5
1991 Isuzu Impulse RS - 1.6 AWD Turbo1993 Asuna - 1.8 "CDM Impulse XS"
1993 Sentra SE-R - 2.0 SR20de1995 200sx SE-R - 2.0 Sr20ve
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if you are looking for a non FITV throttle body you would want to look for a 98+ OBD2 or a JDM non FIT throttle body. The USDM OBD2 96-97 TBs still use the throttle body mounted FITV.
FYI, A piece of gasket material sandwiched between the FITV and throttle body works great if you don't want to spend the money on overpriced block off plates.
As far as your heating issues, change the thermostat and while your in there flush out your heater core and radiator.
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View Postand on the plus side there wont be any heat soak to the intake from the coolant passing through.
Originally posted by Warudakumi View PostFurthermore, if you have a chipped ECU, you can adjust the duty cycle of the air coming inside the intake manifold electronically if your IACV or FITV is screwing up. I have no more bouncing idle issue since I can totally disable these valves. When disabled the car will idle at 900ish by default no matter the engine load.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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