Originally posted by HappyGilmore
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90-93 Accord Adjustable Front Upper Control Arm AKA Camber Kit 4 Degree
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Still waiting to here back... If anyone wants to try them out. Email Us. If there is any issues manufacture has been willing to alter them. Just need feedback/measurements if any issues. 97-01 Preludes had to be altered to my spec recent and they did the alterations. I do not make these so if they sale great... if not thats fine. Just trying to be able to deliver a product for you guys to be usuable.Last edited by ESP-net; 07-20-2018, 04:01 PM.
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Originally posted by ESP-net View PostStill waiting to here back... If anyone wants to try them out. Email Us. If there is any issues manufacture has been willing to alter them. Just need feedback/measurements if any issues. 97-01 Preludes had to be altered to my spec recent and they did the alterations. I do not make these so if they sale great... if not thats fine. Just trying to be able to deliver a product for you guys to be usuable.The CB7 Collector.Team Kindred Impulse Member #392 LX Coupe F22A12013 Toyota Corolla S92 EX Sedan F22A1Originally posted by deevergoteDo you really need to make a thread asking if having your car like this /---\ will cause uneven tire wear? Try walking like that for a few weeks and see if your shoes wear funny! (hint: they will.)
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The top hats will only increase shock piston travel. It'll prevent banging from the shock bottoming out (which is a very good thing!) but it won't change the geometry of the UCA. One caveat with extended tophats is that you don't want to overextend the shock. Shocks are designed for a certain range of travel, both in extension and compression. An overextended shock is no safer or better-performing than an over-compressed shock. Many performance shocks are designed for a lowered car, and therefore are made to be used in a shorter range. Extended tophats could damage anything that was intended for less than factory travel.
That being said, when appropriate, extended tophats are a good idea... and FFC makes some great stuff. FFC and ESP are the two companies that still care about the CB chassis, and it is greatly appreciated!
The UCA will hit the inner fenderwell when camber is corrected to a certain degree after lowering. Positive camber is added ("camber is corrected") by moving the mounting point at the upper ball joint outward. This happens with any type of camber kit, be it an adjustable ball joint, which simply slides the stud outward, or an anchor bolt kit, which moves the entire arm outward.
Additionally, the lowered stance of the car pushes the upper control arm further upward.
The combination of outward and upward results in contact with the fenderwell. Without modifying the car's body or running some degree of negative camber, there is simply no avoiding this after a certain point.
The only thing that an arm like this one could hope to achieve is to use a ball joint and control arm that takes up slightly less room than the OEM piece. There's a small savings to be had there. Not much, but it can make a difference. Say you have a 2" drop and you want to run 0 degrees of camber, the stock control arm with a camber kit installed will hit. You can get away with -1 degree, however. If the ESP arm is able to save a small amount of space in the area that usually hits, 0 degrees may be possible.
Now, if you're slammed on coilovers and you want 0 degrees... nothing is going to help you!
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Originally posted by Alex13mod View PostI'm using my cb with FFC with top hats and Ingall adjustable ball joints and i'm lowered with no bangs. If you're concerned about clearance issue get the extended top hats not only it prevents bangs but you get better travel when riding.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostExtended top hats do nothing to prevent contact with corrected camber. That’s like trying to fix an erratic idle by changing your washer nozzles.
If banging disappears with extended top hats, it’s the shock bottoming out that isn’t happening anymore. Nothing to do with the upper control arm.
But I don't think it will make a diff / the longer spring travel will make a diff. I think it's just soft springs.
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The uca is hitting because of the suspension geometry. As the car is lowered, the arm is pushed up toward the fenderwell. Camber correction involves pushing the ubj mounting point outward (be it by the joint or the entire arm). This results in contact. The shock/spring assembly has nothing at all to do with it, aside from the introduction of negative camber that needs to be corrected as the car is lowered. The only way a shock/spring assembly can eliminate hitting is if the car is raised enough to allow for camber correction without the arm/joint making contact during compression.
To my knowledge, there is absolutely no way to correct camber on a significantly lowered cb7 without hitting the inner fenderwell (or, better yet, modifying the sheet metal to provide clearance). It’s geometry. No camber kit design is going to overcome that.
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I ordered these and just put them on with bad results. they dont clear my 92 coupe at all. Hits fender liner and would hit the tower if liner was cut. Also would need to cut and weld the shock tower cap dealieohh that esp talked about. Yeah, Not doing that.. and if someone wants to try it out I dont want this set anymore. I tried to tell esp that and they want to cut and alter the product I dont need anymore.
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