time for tubular control arms.
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Ingalls camber kit, balljoint-fail.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostOEM ones are installed once... I'm sure with proper machinery, not whacked in by a guy with a bench vise and a big hammer.
This involves pressing those out, pressing in the new ones, and introducing the added stress of a camber adjustment. Yes, that thin band of metal will be weakened, and then put under added stress. What do you expect?
I dont remember what I did to Prez's car. But usually I like to heat up the control arm to expand it with mapp gas, then I put the balljoint plate in the freezer for a while. Then I put it in to the control arm and give it a few taps. Then I press it down with the balljoint bolt/stud assymbly to 120 ft/lbs.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Metal Fatigue - http://www.epi-eng.com/mechanical_en..._in_metals.htm
Adjustment of the (Endurance Limit) EL is the result of six fractional factors. Each of these six factors is calculated from known data which describe the influence of a specific condition on fatigue life.
Those factors are:
Surface Condition (ka): such as: polished, ground, machined, as-forged, corroded, etc. Surface is perhaps the most important influence on fatigue life;
Size (kb): This factor accounts for changes which occur when the actual size of the part or the cross-section differs from that of the test specimens;
Load (kc): This factor accounts for differences in loading (bending, axial, torsional) between the actual part and the test specimens;
Temperature (kd): This factor accounts for reductions in fatigue life which occur when the operating temperature of the part differs from room temperature (the testing temperature);
Reliability (ke): This factor accounts for the scatter of test data. For example, an 8% standard deviation in the test data requires a ke value of 0.868 for 95% reliability, and 0.753 for 99.9% reliability.
Miscellaneous (kf): This factor accounts for reductions from all other effects, including residual stresses, corrosion, plating, metal spraying, fretting, and others.
given the above factors: you compromised size by shaving the arm and probably some on temperature when you heated the arm..
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Originally posted by casterX View Postgiven the above factors: you compromised size by shaving the arm and probably some on temperature when you heated the arm..
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Originally posted by 4CYLPOWER92 View PostI agree with this. I know that hitting mine in with a hammer and block of wood did not put any strain on that arm. I didn't have to hit it very hard at all.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Originally posted by accordztech View PostI didnt heat it up that much, maybe for 15 seconds max.
If pressing in the kit is the reason, then by that theory the crack should start on the inside and work outward. It looks like the opposite from the pics, which would support the theory it was caused by grinding the edge.
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