ENG: MAIN RELAY REMOVAL AND REPAIR (pics)

4CYLPOWER92 · 08-13-2006, 02:54 PM

I finally decided it was time to fix my annoying main relay. After reading countless threads on this forum and others, I've noticed that pictures and detailed instructions are impossible to find. Vague drawings in repair manuals are all I've seen for the most part.

Here we go!

You need a socket wrench with an extention or 2, a size 10mm socket, and some patients. You might even want to do some yoga before attempting this. The location of the main relay in our cars is the main reason this job is hard.

Put your upper body including your head, down on the floor board where your feet normally go.

Now look up left of the stearing columb, above and left of the fuse box. You won't be able to see the main relay yet. The cruise control box is in the way.
So there are 2 10mm bolts holding the CC box in place. Remove those and slide the box out of the way.
Here is the CC Box dropped down by the foot rest.

Now you should be able to see the main relay.

Now don't bother unconnecting the connector yet. It is a tight space to work in, and the connector is tight. There is one 10mm bolt holding the main relay case to the car body. Take that bolt off. Now, you might be able to remove the relay at this point, but maybe not. There is a black plastic box painfully close to the main relay, and the metal relay bracket is undernieth that plastic box bracket. Take off the other 10mm bolt to that bracket in order to loosen it up. Now with a few wiggles, the main relay box comes right out. Now you can unconnect the conector, with the help of a screwdriver for a little prying.

Here is the culprit:

The problem that causes us all pain. These are the 2 locations that looked obviously cracked to me. There could be others that are hard to see visibly, so I went ahead and resoldered every single connection.

Now I'm not an experienced person at soldering, in fact, I've only attempted it once or twice before. It's not that hard. I got a 30amp solderer from Radio Shack, and the thinest wire they had.

I've read somewhere before, that after soldering, you should drill some holes in the main relay holder box. Not sure of the purpose of this, maybe it keeps the relay cooler. Can't hurt, so I did it. I used some sharp surgery scissors to put 4 holes through the casing, since I have no drill.

Installation is the reverse of removal. It wasn't that difficult, really.

Then pray you didn't damage the relay, and start the car

Mine started right up. Now only time will tell how the resoldered joints hold up. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

blackcb7 · 08-13-2006, 03:05 PM

wow nice write up kane, i'm sure this will help a lot of people out

4CYLPOWER92 · 08-13-2006, 03:13 PM

I hope so. I just had to share my pain

aleks77 · 08-13-2006, 03:58 PM

just wondering you solder right on the green thing right? wat happens if you solder 2 of those soldering points together? im just not exactly sure what to solder?

4CYLPOWER92 · 08-13-2006, 05:01 PM

Yeah, you solder those round silver things that are already soldered from the factory. If you solder 2 of them together, you are screwed. But there are tools for removing solder.

deckeda · 08-13-2006, 10:02 PM

Nice DIY. Anybody know if someone other than Mitsuba makes a compatible relay? Just wondering if the design was ever fixed/bettered over the years. I take it there wasn't ever a TSB for this ...

TypeG · 08-13-2006, 10:45 PM

if you take this plastic cover off, it's a lot easier. once you take off the plastic cover, there're 4 10mm bolts holding a metal brace on. remove those bolts and you should be able to see the main relay.

later.

laz · 08-13-2006, 10:51 PM

That reminds me of the day I had to take mine out to get fixed.

You should do all points since it is already out, and it is not hard at all.

The relay is a good design, it is just that the cars las too long!

You remove the cover, but you still have to go at it from underneath, and the position is the sux on your back.

X

91hybridaccord · 08-14-2006, 03:26 PM

Tried this yesterday on two bad relays, and they both work flawlessly now.....great write up......sure beats paying $70+ from the dealer new

Stealthman80 · 08-14-2006, 05:33 PM

that piece is 70$

WTF????

doylna · 08-14-2006, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealthman80

that piece is 70$

WTF????

I bought mine new on eBay for $35 shipped about 2 years ago...always an option I guess.

TypeG · 08-15-2006, 01:03 AM

i don't know where you guys get your parts, but i bought mine from the honda dealership for $45. later.

accordaffair · 08-15-2006, 01:35 AM

I did this the other day...hehe you have the same radio shack iron and solder I got! I got a desoldering iron while I was there too, works good once you get the hang of it.

bummer for me is, I fixed the relay and turns out nothing was wrong with it, so I wasted a whole bunch of time but I'm sure it will come in handy down the road somewhere

timmy0tool · 08-15-2006, 12:36 PM

thanks for this! the pics should help myself as well as others. i need to do this as well. i never thought about resoldering the connections before so thanks for saving me a few bucks and a trip to the dealership.

4CYLPOWER92 · 08-17-2006, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy0tool

thanks for this! the pics should help myself as well as others. i need to do this as well. i never thought about resoldering the connections before so thanks for saving me a few bucks and a trip to the dealership.

Yep, I wouldn't expect an Electrical Engineer to go buy one of these!! LOL.

blazenem · 08-17-2006, 11:43 PM

yeah mine didnt cost that much either dont remember exactly but i know it didnt cost 90 cuz i wouldnt have gotten it.. but i need to take the old one out it too damn hot out here in az to be up under a dashboard i just needed to use the car so i just unplugged the old one and left the new one danglin when i get it out maybe ill resolder it and sell it for 10 or 15 bux lol

aleks77 · 08-18-2006, 12:59 AM

fixed mine yesterday, cant really tell which are cracked tho, but the car fired up and hasnt given up yet, will let you know if it fails, and if it doesnt in a month ill also let u guys know! Mine used to crap out 3/4 times a day!

WilliamW · 09-01-2006, 03:18 AM

Great write up. I had to find and remove the relay tommrow and this is just what I needed. Took like 2 min searching. Thanks!!!

Ralphie · 09-01-2006, 04:06 AM

Yea good write up. That last picture looks like you were ready for surgery lol. This will deff come in handy.

sunburn · 09-01-2006, 04:10 PM

nice diy

i used it today, i replaced mine with a new one (oem model) and amd going going to repair the old one).thanks

08-13-2006, 02:54 PM	#1
4CYLPOWER92 Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Where they say "Hella" Posts: 2,506	ENG: MAIN RELAY REMOVAL AND REPAIR (pics) I finally decided it was time to fix my annoying main relay. After reading countless threads on this forum and others, I've noticed that pictures and detailed instructions are impossible to find. Vague drawings in repair manuals are all I've seen for the most part. Here we go! You need a socket wrench with an extention or 2, a size 10mm socket, and some patients. You might even want to do some yoga before attempting this. The location of the main relay in our cars is the main reason this job is hard. Put your upper body including your head, down on the floor board where your feet normally go. Now look up left of the stearing columb, above and left of the fuse box. You won't be able to see the main relay yet. The cruise control box is in the way. So there are 2 10mm bolts holding the CC box in place. Remove those and slide the box out of the way. Here is the CC Box dropped down by the foot rest. Now you should be able to see the main relay. Now don't bother unconnecting the connector yet. It is a tight space to work in, and the connector is tight. There is one 10mm bolt holding the main relay case to the car body. Take that bolt off. Now, you might be able to remove the relay at this point, but maybe not. There is a black plastic box painfully close to the main relay, and the metal relay bracket is undernieth that plastic box bracket. Take off the other 10mm bolt to that bracket in order to loosen it up. Now with a few wiggles, the main relay box comes right out. Now you can unconnect the conector, with the help of a screwdriver for a little prying. Here is the culprit: The problem that causes us all pain. These are the 2 locations that looked obviously cracked to me. There could be others that are hard to see visibly, so I went ahead and resoldered every single connection. Now I'm not an experienced person at soldering, in fact, I've only attempted it once or twice before. It's not that hard. I got a 30amp solderer from Radio Shack, and the thinest wire they had. I've read somewhere before, that after soldering, you should drill some holes in the main relay holder box. Not sure of the purpose of this, maybe it keeps the relay cooler. Can't hurt, so I did it. I used some sharp surgery scissors to put 4 holes through the casing, since I have no drill. Installation is the reverse of removal. It wasn't that difficult, really. Then pray you didn't damage the relay, and start the car Mine started right up. Now only time will tell how the resoldered joints hold up. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. __________________ My swap thread Main relay proplems?--DIY Last edited by 4CYLPOWER92; 06-20-2008 at 11:42 PM.

08-13-2006, 03:05 PM	#2
blackcb7 Accord of the Month: May 2008 Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Socal Posts: 3,426	wow nice write up kane, i'm sure this will help a lot of people out __________________ Members Ride

08-13-2006, 03:13 PM	#3
4CYLPOWER92 Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Where they say "Hella" Posts: 2,506	I hope so. I just had to share my pain __________________ My swap thread Main relay proplems?--DIY

08-13-2006, 03:58 PM	#4
aleks77 CB7tuner Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC and Blaine, WA, 98230 Posts: 1,212	just wondering you solder right on the green thing right? wat happens if you solder 2 of those soldering points together? im just not exactly sure what to solder? __________________ 1991 Accord LX Coupe - F22 SOHC 357whp @ 19 psi on pump Member's Ride Page Northwest March 11th '06, CB7 Meet Video Vouches: \| Bisimoto \| cp[mike] \| Datmofo \| RENR \| TypeG \| 93accord \| T3h HoT!! \| fst4dr91 \| suprachica79 \|

08-13-2006, 05:01 PM	#5
4CYLPOWER92 Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Where they say "Hella" Posts: 2,506	Yeah, you solder those round silver things that are already soldered from the factory. If you solder 2 of them together, you are screwed. But there are tools for removing solder. __________________ My swap thread Main relay proplems?--DIY Last edited by 4CYLPOWER92; 08-13-2006 at 05:03 PM.

08-13-2006, 10:02 PM	#6
deckeda CB7tuner Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: The ATL Posts: 1,150	Nice DIY. Anybody know if someone other than Mitsuba makes a compatible relay? Just wondering if the design was ever fixed/bettered over the years. I take it there wasn't ever a TSB for this ...

08-13-2006, 10:45 PM	#7
TypeG Flake You Join Date: May 2005 Location: Slingin Suds in ATL Posts: 6,132	if you take this plastic cover off, it's a lot easier. once you take off the plastic cover, there're 4 10mm bolts holding a metal brace on. remove those bolts and you should be able to see the main relay. later. __________________ *Avoiding dirt at all costs* ATLiens click to join

08-13-2006, 10:51 PM	#8
laz CB7tuner Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: WPB, FL Posts: 334	That reminds me of the day I had to take mine out to get fixed. You should do all points since it is already out, and it is not hard at all. The relay is a good design, it is just that the cars las too long! You remove the cover, but you still have to go at it from underneath, and the position is the sux on your back. X __________________

08-14-2006, 03:26 PM	#9
91hybridaccord CB7tuner Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Tucson, Arizona, THE CITY OF BROTHERLY CAR THEFT Posts: 1,254	Tried this yesterday on two bad relays, and they both work flawlessly now.....great write up......sure beats paying $70+ from the dealer new __________________ 1991 Honda Accord Ex Pics of the beast! ::::198.4 WHP and 146.6 WTQ Currently weighing in at 2700lbs...best time: 14.8@92mph:::: 2003 BMW 330I Sport.....Daily Hustler.... Road Race #1 Totoro Squad #2

08-14-2006, 05:33 PM	#10
Stealthman80 CB7tuner Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ottawa, On, Canada Posts: 633	that piece is 70$ WTF???? __________________ My Members Ride Page

08-15-2006, 01:03 AM	#12
TypeG Flake You Join Date: May 2005 Location: Slingin Suds in ATL Posts: 6,132	i don't know where you guys get your parts, but i bought mine from the honda dealership for $45. later. __________________ *Avoiding dirt at all costs* ATLiens click to join

08-15-2006, 01:35 AM	#13
accordaffair Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Stuart, FL Posts: 3,851	I did this the other day...hehe you have the same radio shack iron and solder I got! I got a desoldering iron while I was there too, works good once you get the hang of it. bummer for me is, I fixed the relay and turns out nothing was wrong with it, so I wasted a whole bunch of time but I'm sure it will come in handy down the road somewhere __________________ on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up, where you been, is something wrong? i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.

08-15-2006, 12:36 PM	#14
timmy0tool Accord of the Month: April 2006 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: 909/626/714, SoCal Posts: 4,091	thanks for this! the pics should help myself as well as others. i need to do this as well. i never thought about resoldering the connections before so thanks for saving me a few bucks and a trip to the dealership. __________________ - 92 LX coupe - 96 EX wagon

08-17-2006, 11:43 PM	#16
blazenem CB7tuner Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: From NY to AZ Posts: 868	yeah mine didnt cost that much either dont remember exactly but i know it didnt cost 90 cuz i wouldnt have gotten it.. but i need to take the old one out it too damn hot out here in az to be up under a dashboard i just needed to use the car so i just unplugged the old one and left the new one danglin when i get it out maybe ill resolder it and sell it for 10 or 15 bux lol __________________ Turbo f22 coming soon Ride List 1990 Accord dx coupe - my baby (dsm turbo set up in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202853 1988 Mitubishi Starion - newest project(on hold) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202851 2005 Mazda 6s - daily driver http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3171724

08-18-2006, 12:59 AM	#17
aleks77 CB7tuner Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC and Blaine, WA, 98230 Posts: 1,212	fixed mine yesterday, cant really tell which are cracked tho, but the car fired up and hasnt given up yet, will let you know if it fails, and if it doesnt in a month ill also let u guys know! Mine used to crap out 3/4 times a day! __________________ 1991 Accord LX Coupe - F22 SOHC 357whp @ 19 psi on pump Member's Ride Page Northwest March 11th '06, CB7 Meet Video Vouches: \| Bisimoto \| cp[mike] \| Datmofo \| RENR \| TypeG \| 93accord \| T3h HoT!! \| fst4dr91 \| suprachica79 \|

09-01-2006, 03:18 AM	#18
WilliamW CB7tuner Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: St. Louis Missouri Posts: 703	Great write up. I had to find and remove the relay tommrow and this is just what I needed. Took like 2 min searching. Thanks!!! __________________ My Ride.

09-01-2006, 04:06 AM	#19
Ralphie Stalker Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: BkNy Posts: 3,610	Yea good write up. That last picture looks like you were ready for surgery lol. This will deff come in handy. __________________ New Orleans is a dying whore/Stripped down and beat to the floor/New Orleans is a dying whore

09-01-2006, 04:10 PM	#20
sunburn CB7tuner Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Right where I wanna be Posts: 2,359	nice diy i used it today, i replaced mine with a new one (oem model) and amd going going to repair the old one).thanks __________________ WE MISS YOU JO(9-04-2008)

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