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Old 08-24-2010, 10:22 AM   #1
PR CB7
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SUSP: Manual rack

Deleting PS 80% of the time starts with an H swap, and some of the times its starts with a leaking PS rack. I personally dont like the way PS "LOOKS" in the cb engine bay, so heres a tutorial about how to make yourself a manual rack.

The first mistake some people do, is loop the lines so you can keep the system lubricated. You want the rack lubricated, but that last thing you need is fluid. Being that the PS rack works by a piston moved by hydraulic oil, by looping the lines you're only stressing the rack, your better off leaving it open.

step 1: take the rack out of the car
easiest of all.................


step 2: remove inner tierods
to remove, you must straighten the crush washers, and then with a 17mm wrench remove the inner tierods


step 3: remove hydraulic valve body
the body that has all the threaded fittings


step4: remove top cover

step 5: remove snap rings
all 3 of them


step 6: remove black housing



step 7: remove piston cylinder

step 8: remove piston seals, ALL

step 9: remove turning spline (the one that moves the rack rod)

step 10: remove turning spline housing


step 11: remove 14 mm adjuster cap


step 12: remove rack rod (big one)

step 12: clean clean clean


step 13: dry and grease ( grease EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)


reversal steps aint really necessary, put it all how you took it back,

as for the valve body remove all springs and valves out of it, do not cap the valvebody, since turning will create pressure, you want it to escape.


do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight

as for the rack tensioner, there is adjustment on it, adjust and turn the rack until you get the desired feeling


Put the rack back on the car, and enjoy
I made this diy based on one i read on a prelude forum, but did it myself on a cb rack and posted my own pictures.
the difference you might ask?
if looped lines is 3 and ps is 10, i would rate the feeling a 7.5, being that it doesnt suck no more getting out of parking lots and really do not regret eliminating it


TO ELIMINATE PLAY IN THE MANUAL RACK:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
THE SOLUTION TO ELIMINATING STEERING PLAY:

Here are the two washers:


Thickness of both washers:


Two washers on the valve side:


Two washers on the cover side:


I dropped it to the ground and sure enough no more play. Great job Will figuring this out.
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Old 08-24-2010, 11:12 AM   #2
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Damn bro you beat to making the DIY.


But nice write up. Me and a few friends have done this and we love it.

Last edited by Darkcloud; 08-24-2010 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:19 AM   #3
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I might have to pick up another junkyard rack do this. How long have you ridden with it done like that? Will it make the rack last longer?
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:38 AM   #4
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Nice write up, I just did this with a j/y rack, but haven't installed it yet. I want to get new in/outer tierods first. Although, I did not remove the stuff from the valve body, do you think this is necessary? It still seems to move pretty easily by hand.

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Old 08-24-2010, 08:10 PM   #5
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i just did this about 3 weeks ago and took pics for a DIY, ended up doing it slightly diffrent but great to see someone else tearing into it.

i machined off the piston, left the cylinder to hold the rack end bushing and made a block off plate to replace the valve body, rather than taking it apart.

i am not sure if removing the piston was the best idea, the piston does not act as a steering lock, but it seems like i picked up some steering wheel judder over bumps, i need to adjust the rack guide and see if it eliminates the problem.

nice job on the pictures and write up.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:49 PM   #6
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on mine i had the tensioner as much as i could, but after the second rack tought me, i had to loosen mine a bit
what a difference

i recommend replacing inner and outers if bad
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:43 AM   #7
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thats alot of work for a manual rack conversion. I have a breather on mine like the RealTime Acura guys
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:12 PM   #8
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This is an awesome write up!!!!! But can I just buy one off of you?!
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:02 PM   #9
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you could have one for 1 5 0 plus shipping and handling
and the benefit of better steering
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Old 08-27-2010, 02:00 AM   #10
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not bad...glad you addressed lubrication.

are you going to install valves so you can re-lube from time to time?
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Old 08-28-2010, 03:10 PM   #11
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in 2 weeks once i get my welder back
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

"I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:49 AM   #12
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So, which parts do you remove and not replace?
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB7Junkie View Post
So, which parts do you remove and not replace?
x2 I'm thinking of doing this next
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:24 PM   #14
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I just finished doing mines...the spring and plastic spacer that holds the cylinder in place..did you just remove that since the cylinder was removed
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Old 10-08-2010, 04:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lecco View Post
x2 I'm thinking of doing this next
basically all the guts of the valve body

as for the inside of the rack

i took out the cylinder sleeve, being that since i took the seal out,thats what the sleeve is doing, thats the only purpose of it, so no need




yes viper i remove the plastic
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Old 11-26-2010, 05:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PR CB7 View Post
basically all the guts of the valve body

as for the inside of the rack

i took out the cylinder sleeve, being that since i took the seal out,thats what the sleeve is doing, thats the only purpose of it, so no need




yes viper i remove the plastic

Question, I have a leak somewhere and pretty much have been driving with no ps.

I dont want to pull the wrack out so should I just take everything out and maybe just leave the line open? Or throw cork in the line to stop it from coming out?
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Old 11-26-2010, 05:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reignstarz View Post
Question, I have a leak somewhere and pretty much have been driving with no ps.

I dont want to pull the wrack out so should I just take everything out and maybe just leave the line open? Or throw cork in the line to stop it from coming out?
if you're not running PS remove reservoir, and open the lines on the rack
it will leak, eventually it will stop since there's nbot gonna be not anymore fluid
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Old 11-26-2010, 06:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PR CB7 View Post
if you're not running PS remove reservoir, and open the lines on the rack
it will leak, eventually it will stop since there's nbot gonna be not anymore fluid
will my rack fuck up?

And how do I open the lines on the rack?

How do I keep the rack lubricated with them open?
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reignstarz View Post
will my rack fuck up?

And how do I open the lines on the rack?

How do I keep the rack lubricated with them open?
OMG??????? really??

if ur rack is leaking, is not gonna get any better, your rack is already fucked

you open the rack lines with a wrench

i really dont know how to answer the last question
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Old 11-26-2010, 11:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reignstarz View Post
will my rack fuck up?

And how do I open the lines on the rack?

How do I keep the rack lubricated with them open?
You do know you posted in a diy section right?

If you're worried about messing up your rack then just cionvert it or get a donor and convert it. Not hard to figure out honestly.
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