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Old 12-27-2018, 04:57 PM   #181
SedanTom
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Good on ya Mike! Anymore plans for the rest of "winter" for you?
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Old 12-27-2018, 10:18 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SedanTom View Post
Good on ya Mike! Anymore plans for the rest of "winter" for you?
There is a Lemons race in March at Sonoma and one on the 5 mile full thunderhill track in may. At some point this summer, the date has not been announced, Luckydog is doing a race at Laguna Seca. Lemons is having races at Buttonwillow in September and again at Sonoma in December.

So I'm thinking:
Thunderhill in May,
Laguna Seca whenever it happens, and (change that to Buttonwillow in September, I missed the Laguna Seca registration time and it filled in less than 1 minute)
Sonoma in December.


So I guess I have until May to do all the usual race prep items and swap the manifold and computer, wire up the black box, install the cam, and after the valvetrain is back together, adjust the valves. I've only adjusted valves once before, on my old 911, and I did not fully succeed. I've never replaced a camshaft at all. Should be interesting.



Dang once I say it like that, I've got a lot to do. Better get to it soon.
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

Last edited by ukemike; 02-08-2019 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 12-28-2018, 01:08 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by ukemike View Post


Dang once I say it like that, I've got a lot to do. Better get to it soon.
Get on it!
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:04 AM   #184
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Mini-Documentary About Our Little Team

Some SF State film students, Brian Churchwell and Nevin Long on the Lemons forums in late November asking for a team to volunteer to be subjects of a documentary they were doing for a journalism class. I volunteered. They followed us around before and during the race. It was fun. This is the result:

https://youtu.be/sCOrY6LXMfE
__________________
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1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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Old 01-01-2019, 09:59 PM   #185
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That is a great short video. You got some drive time in there and most importantly gave out great info on the Lemons race event. Looks like a lot of fun, and your son being involved is wonderful. I grew up racing BMX in Southern California with my dad and brothers and it is some of my best family memories.
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:07 AM   #186
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That was awesome! Thank you for sharing your video!
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:24 PM   #187
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Awesome video, thanks for sharing

I know you were talking about a cluster electrical issue. Check out my cluster issue that's getting worse

https://youtu.be/7nf8-uLuj0E?t=3314

It's worse on right hand turns. I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet though.
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:51 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aventari View Post
Awesome video, thanks for sharing

I know you were talking about a cluster electrical issue. Check out my cluster issue that's getting worse

https://youtu.be/7nf8-uLuj0E?t=3314

It's worse on right hand turns. I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet though.
Aventari, your issue could be your ICM in the distributor is starting to fail. My tach was doing the same thing leading up to a total ICM failure.
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:41 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aventari View Post
Awesome video, thanks for sharing

I know you were talking about a cluster electrical issue. Check out my cluster issue that's getting worse

https://youtu.be/7nf8-uLuj0E?t=3314

It's worse on right hand turns. I haven't tried to troubleshoot it yet though.
I see what you did there. Your link is set to play the video starting right before your car passed me. You're just trying to rub it in.

So was that your tach that kept falling down to zero? Our speedo was doing that for a while before it all died.
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:58 PM   #190
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Well the instrument cluster seems fixed. Tedd replaced the under dash fuse. That was a lot less trivial than it sounds. Since the dash etc is all gone, all the wiring is zip-tied up and out of the way in a dense tangle. Tedd was upside down in the drivers seat, clipping zipties left and right until he uncovered the fusebox, then he had to figure out which fues it was in the dark down there. Once again, this site was helpful. Somewhere on here I found which fuse it was. Thanks! I cannot imagine us doing anywhere near as well without the help of this site and all the contributors past and present.

We also pulled the f22a1 intake manifold and installed the h23a1 manifold and throttle body. We still have to finish hooking up all the vacuum hoses. We need a few adapters and extra lengths of vacuum tube. I'll post a picture after next time we work on it. I still have to swap the ECU and wire the actuator for the butterflys.

Our next project after that will be installing the f22a6 camshaft. MOAR POWER!

So we will have completed the 30hp for $500 list after the cam is installed, but we spent more than $500.
  • F22a6 camshaft $90 on ebay (couldn't find one at the local JYs. Each time I've looked all the CB7-EXs had the cams removed before I got there.
  • H23a1 intake manifold, TB, and blackbox was $155 at the JY
  • ECU PT6 $30 at JY
  • Cheap exhaust $250
  • Muffler was a nice magnaflow discarded from Tedd's '65 Alfa Giulia racecar
  • F22a4 exhaust manifold $40
  • Intake was free with the car
  • various gaskets and seals were about $100
If you assume the muffler and intake were $100 together, that puts us at $765, $665 with the free muffler and intake. Still an excellent price for the gain, but more than $500 now.
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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Old 03-03-2019, 03:36 PM   #191
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I'm having difficulty actuating the intake runner butterflies. I believe we are getting good vacuum into the so-called Black Box. So I started checking the electrical signal. If I recall what I read here correctly, the pin A19 goes to ground when the car goes over about 4500 RPM. This is what activates the butterflies. So I have on wire going to a 12v source and the other to the ecu A19. I managed to hook up a multimeter between that pen and ground and was measuring it for continuity and did not see any change when the engine revved up over 4500 or 5000 RPM. I was pretty confident I had the right pin. Kevin, aventari, I remember you actuated them in another way, how?

I'm also having another difficulty. The new throttle body has a map sensor. I hoped that I could just connect the vacuum to the old map sensor that is in the firewall black box to a vacuum nipple on the plenum and it would work. It doesn't seem too. The idle bumps up and down and up and down. Pulling the vacuum hose from the map sensor to the plenum off of the plenum steadies the idle about where it should be. It's also running very rich. I really haven't run it long enough to see if this is only an idle condition or not, just long enough to check their butterfly actuation. For those that have done the h23 intake what did you do with your MAP sensors?

Apologies for any weird typos or word transpositions I dictated this into my phone.
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid

Last edited by ukemike; 03-03-2019 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 03-03-2019, 07:22 PM   #192
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I can tell you that when I had the h22 in my car I used the stock accord map sensor that uses a vacuum line and I had no issue. Is there a leak in the vacuum hose.

As for the butterfly actuation I am not 100% familiar with it, but could it require a certain speed before it actuates. I'm assuming you are simply reving to see if the butterfly valves open? They should be closed until 4500 rpm then open up. Are the butterflies remaining open or closed?
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:51 AM   #193
ukemike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
I can tell you that when I had the h22 in my car I used the stock accord map sensor that uses a vacuum line and I had no issue. Is there a leak in the vacuum hose.

As for the butterfly actuation I am not 100% familiar with it, but could it require a certain speed before it actuates. I'm assuming you are simply reving to see if the butterfly valves open? They should be closed until 4500 rpm then open up. Are the butterflies remaining open or closed?
They stay closed. Just hooking the actuator to the plenum vacuum keeps them open all the time.
Yes revving is how we are testing. I'm sure the neighbors were getting sick of the racket.

We are pretty sure it is the electrical not the vacuum that is the problem. My understanding is that pin a19 goes to ground to activate the butterflies. I put a multi-meter on it. Between a19 and ground the resistance does not change when you rev over 4500, nor does the voltage.

On the map sensor, does it matter where you connect the vacuum hose?
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:37 AM   #194
Grumpys93
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I didn’t think it was vacuum issue for the butterfly, I was referring to the map sensor. I had mine hooked up to one of the nipples on the back of the plenum. There are two side by side.

I’ll look at the schematic tonight and try and see what I can figure out. It could be a bad solenoid or like I said, I wonder if you have to go a certain speed to allow it to actuate. Similar to how vtec won’t activate unless you are going over I think it’s 5 miles an hour or something like that.
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Old 03-05-2019, 09:15 AM   #195
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If I remember correctly I think the car has to be moving as well to actuate the butterflies. You could always put the front of the car on jack stands then test in gear to see if the butterflies open.
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Old 03-05-2019, 12:00 PM   #196
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Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
If I remember correctly I think the car has to be moving as well to actuate the butterflies. You could always put the front of the car on jack stands then test in gear to see if the butterflies open.
We are going to try this. I wonder what sensor it would use to tell it the car is moving? The speed sensor on the trans? Is there a sensor that can tell it is in gear?
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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Old 03-06-2019, 12:06 PM   #197
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Oh man I had the exact same issues trying to get a signal from A19. I tried 2 different ECUs and messed with it for weeks. I was never able to get anything from that pin.

We did at least 2 races with the butterflys just open the whole time because I could not get the ECU to signal them

I had wired up a manual switch to my butterflys and verified that everything was working if I manually powered it.

Eventually I just gave up and ordered this: https://www.rvautoparts.com/N3012-In..._p_352067.html

Which I actually wired wrong the first time and then returned it twice cuz I kept thinking they were broken! But in reality I was just trying to power it instead of pulling to ground. (I think)
So I actually have a spare one laying around the garage if you want it.

I also had the issue with idle bouncing, it acted like a big vacuum leak, but I figured it was because I had knife-edged the throttle body and messed with adjustment and it didnt seal perfectly anymore.
I kinda just deal with the messed up idle now because it doesn't make a difference on track.
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Old 03-06-2019, 04:52 PM   #198
ukemike
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I would definitely want your extra rpm doohicky! That's awsome. I'd happily pay shipping. I'll email my address.

I missed the 1 second window to register for the September Laguna Seca race, so we will probably do Buttonwillow again this year.
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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Old 03-06-2019, 07:06 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukemike View Post
We are going to try this. I wonder what sensor it would use to tell it the car is moving? The speed sensor on the trans? Is there a sensor that can tell it is in gear?
As far as I know the VSS is the only sensor that can tell if your moving. As for if itís in gear I have no clue. May be a combo of the clutch safety switch, vss, and thatís probably it.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:03 PM   #200
ukemike
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Originally Posted by Rilas View Post
If I remember correctly I think the car has to be moving as well to actuate the butterflies. You could always put the front of the car on jack stands then test in gear to see if the butterflies open.
I tried it again Saturday. Jacked up the front, put it in 1st, revved it up and no movement on the butterflies. No worries. We'll get it working or we'll just keep them open all time time. This car spends most of its time over 4000rpm anyway.
__________________
==========================
1991 Accord Lemons Race Car, "The Minnow" RIP
1993 Accord Lemons Race Car, "Notorious RBG"
Neuspeed Race Springs, Koni Sports, Acura CL Rear Sway Bar,
Adj Upper Control Arms -3.0deg front, -2.0 deg rear
M2A4 Trans, Cusco 1-way Limited Slip Differential, Stage 2 Clutch and 11lb flywheel.
A4 Header, 2" exhaust all the way back, catalyst delete, glasspack muffler, PT12 ECU.
Acura CL3.0 Brakes Front and Rear, Raybestos St43 Pads, Redline 600 Brake Fluid
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