Is it worth the extra $1000 or so dollars for the type s I mean can't an h22 with less then a grand put into it make close to the same numbers?
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H22 type s...is it worth it
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Originally posted by alekp92jdm View PostIs it worth the extra $1000 or so dollars for the type s I mean can't an h22 with less then a grand put into it make close to the same numbers?Jesus drove a Honda, he just didnt talk about it like us. Proof - John 12:49 "For i did not speak of my own accord."
Originally posted by deevergoteden das al u ned u no dat u get wurs gas milge tho rite?Originally posted by deevergoteThese cars will never be the best at anything, but they're pretty damn good at everything.
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"is it worth it" is a question that only YOU could answer.
I feel the same way, that a base H22A with mods will be just as potent as a Type S for the same or less money. And the OBD1 availability of the base H22A makes it slightly less of a hassle to install. Open/Closed deck isn't really a big deal until you're doing something crazy, like boost (which would really require a resleeve of an H22A anyway, to do it right...) though I do prefer the closed deck design myself as well.
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The Type S has a better intake manifold, higher compression pistons, better cams, and I believe a polished head from the factory. All that for just 20hp at the crank.
A Skunk2 intake manifold will be at least as good as, if not better than, the Type S piece (as would the Euro R manifold.)
Some decent "Stage 2" camshafts with corresponding springs will likely outperform the Type S cams ("Stage 2" will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so research and plan accordingly.)
Those two things, along with a quality ECU tune, may get you to Type S power (though that would be at least $1000 in parts and labor, probably more.)
Bumping the compression up with new pistons won't be cheap, even if you can do most of the work yourself... and a port and polish definitely won't be cheap, all things considered. But do that, and add a decent exhaust and a high quality header (HyTech is probably the best on the market that's still being made, unless Mugen is still supporting the H22A.) and you could be pushing 250whp (that's damn near 300 at the crank.)
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That right there is pretty much a full engine rebuild... the only way to "not go too far into it" would be to thoroughly halfass everything!
The minute you open up that engine, you're replacing one piece of a puzzle after another. There's no point in haphazardly doing it, or cutting corners (which could render ALL that expensive work useless). If you ignore one part but upgrade another, the part you ignored could very well choke out any gains that the other upgraded part might have provided. The engine is a giant air pump, and it only works as well as the greatest bottleneck will allow.
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Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostIsn't the Type-S an ATTS engine? Prelude SH guys have had to do some custom fabrication to swap in a base transmission for more serious builds.
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Right. the ATTS stuff is the transmission. We can't use an ATTS transmission without a fair amount of modification to the car (one guy here has it, and I think he had to halfass a bunch of things to fit it.) That means no Type S or SH transmissions. The engine has some differences, as sparkle mentioned, but none are really significant in terms of fitting the engine into a CB7 with a non-ATTS transmission.
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostThe engine has some differences, as sparkle mentioned, but none are really significant in terms of fitting the engine into a CB7 with a non-ATTS transmission.
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Originally posted by CyborgGT View PostThat's what I was wondering. I got a look at an SH block when I was shopping for my new car and noticed the differences. Someone on PreludePower was asking around for interest in him making brackets for a group buy, so people could mate base transmissions to their SH blocks. I figured it would be just as much trouble putting an ATTS-configured block into an Accord with a standard F/H transmission.
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