Deleting PS 80% of the time starts with an H swap, and some of the times its starts with a leaking PS rack. I personally dont like the way PS "LOOKS" in the cb engine bay, so heres a tutorial about how to make yourself a manual rack.
The first mistake some people do, is loop the lines so you can keep the system lubricated. You want the rack lubricated, but that last thing you need is fluid. Being that the PS rack works by a piston moved by hydraulic oil, by looping the lines you're only stressing the rack, your better off leaving it open.
step 1: take the rack out of the car
easiest of all.................
step 2: remove inner tierods
to remove, you must straighten the crush washers, and then with a 17mm wrench remove the inner tierods
step 3: remove hydraulic valve body
the body that has all the threaded fittings
step4: remove top cover
step 5: remove snap rings
all 3 of them
step 6: remove black housing
step 7: remove piston cylinder
step 8: remove piston seals, ALL
step 9: remove turning spline (the one that moves the rack rod)
step 10: remove turning spline housing
step 11: remove 14 mm adjuster cap
step 12: remove rack rod (big one)
step 12: clean clean clean
step 13: dry and grease ( grease EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
reversal steps aint really necessary, put it all how you took it back,
as for the valve body remove all springs and valves out of it, do not cap the valvebody, since turning will create pressure, you want it to escape.
do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight
as for the rack tensioner, there is adjustment on it, adjust and turn the rack until you get the desired feeling
Put the rack back on the car, and enjoy
I made this diy based on one i read on a prelude forum, but did it myself on a cb rack and posted my own pictures.
the difference you might ask?
if looped lines is 3 and ps is 10, i would rate the feeling a 7.5, being that it doesnt suck no more getting out of parking lots and really do not regret eliminating it
TO ELIMINATE PLAY IN THE MANUAL RACK:
The first mistake some people do, is loop the lines so you can keep the system lubricated. You want the rack lubricated, but that last thing you need is fluid. Being that the PS rack works by a piston moved by hydraulic oil, by looping the lines you're only stressing the rack, your better off leaving it open.
step 1: take the rack out of the car
easiest of all.................
step 2: remove inner tierods
to remove, you must straighten the crush washers, and then with a 17mm wrench remove the inner tierods
step 3: remove hydraulic valve body
the body that has all the threaded fittings
step4: remove top cover
step 5: remove snap rings
all 3 of them
step 6: remove black housing
step 7: remove piston cylinder
step 8: remove piston seals, ALL
step 9: remove turning spline (the one that moves the rack rod)
step 10: remove turning spline housing
step 11: remove 14 mm adjuster cap
step 12: remove rack rod (big one)
step 12: clean clean clean
step 13: dry and grease ( grease EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
reversal steps aint really necessary, put it all how you took it back,
as for the valve body remove all springs and valves out of it, do not cap the valvebody, since turning will create pressure, you want it to escape.
do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight
as for the rack tensioner, there is adjustment on it, adjust and turn the rack until you get the desired feeling
Put the rack back on the car, and enjoy
I made this diy based on one i read on a prelude forum, but did it myself on a cb rack and posted my own pictures.
the difference you might ask?
if looped lines is 3 and ps is 10, i would rate the feeling a 7.5, being that it doesnt suck no more getting out of parking lots and really do not regret eliminating it
TO ELIMINATE PLAY IN THE MANUAL RACK:
Originally posted by Grumpys93
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