No announcement yet.

SUSP: Manual rack

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    SUSP: Manual rack

    Deleting PS 80% of the time starts with an H swap, and some of the times its starts with a leaking PS rack. I personally dont like the way PS "LOOKS" in the cb engine bay, so heres a tutorial about how to make yourself a manual rack.

    The first mistake some people do, is loop the lines so you can keep the system lubricated. You want the rack lubricated, but that last thing you need is fluid. Being that the PS rack works by a piston moved by hydraulic oil, by looping the lines you're only stressing the rack, your better off leaving it open.

    step 1: take the rack out of the car
    easiest of all.................

    step 2: remove inner tierods
    to remove, you must straighten the crush washers, and then with a 17mm wrench remove the inner tierods

    step 3: remove hydraulic valve body
    the body that has all the threaded fittings

    step4: remove top cover

    step 5: remove snap rings
    all 3 of them

    step 6: remove black housing

    step 7: remove piston cylinder

    step 8: remove piston seals, ALL

    step 9: remove turning spline (the one that moves the rack rod)

    step 10: remove turning spline housing

    step 11: remove 14 mm adjuster cap

    step 12: remove rack rod (big one)

    step 12: clean clean clean

    step 13: dry and grease ( grease EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

    reversal steps aint really necessary, put it all how you took it back,

    as for the valve body remove all springs and valves out of it, do not cap the valvebody, since turning will create pressure, you want it to escape.

    do not install cylinder back its not necessary and its extra weight

    as for the rack tensioner, there is adjustment on it, adjust and turn the rack until you get the desired feeling

    Put the rack back on the car, and enjoy
    I made this diy based on one i read on a prelude forum, but did it myself on a cb rack and posted my own pictures.
    the difference you might ask?
    if looped lines is 3 and ps is 10, i would rate the feeling a 7.5, being that it doesnt suck no more getting out of parking lots and really do not regret eliminating it

    Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post

    Here are the two washers:

    Thickness of both washers:

    Two washers on the valve side:

    Two washers on the cover side:

    I dropped it to the ground and sure enough no more play. Great job Will figuring this out.
    Last edited by cp[mike]; 10-30-2017, 10:45 PM.
    Originally posted by deevergote
    Just do what PR CB7 said.

    "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

    Damn bro you beat to making the DIY.

    But nice write up. Me and a few friends have done this and we love it.
    Last edited by Darkcloud; 08-24-2010, 12:17 PM.
    NEW CB

    old Darkcloud : 1990 Accord EX MRT



      I might have to pick up another junkyard rack do this. How long have you ridden with it done like that? Will it make the rack last longer?
      COUPE K24


        Nice write up, I just did this with a j/y rack, but haven't installed it yet. I want to get new in/outer tierods first. Although, I did not remove the stuff from the valve body, do you think this is necessary? It still seems to move pretty easily by hand.



          i just did this about 3 weeks ago and took pics for a DIY, ended up doing it slightly diffrent but great to see someone else tearing into it.

          i machined off the piston, left the cylinder to hold the rack end bushing and made a block off plate to replace the valve body, rather than taking it apart.

          i am not sure if removing the piston was the best idea, the piston does not act as a steering lock, but it seems like i picked up some steering wheel judder over bumps, i need to adjust the rack guide and see if it eliminates the problem.

          nice job on the pictures and write up.
          Last edited by GreenMadness; 08-24-2010, 09:17 PM.
          Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide


            on mine i had the tensioner as much as i could, but after the second rack tought me, i had to loosen mine a bit
            what a difference

            i recommend replacing inner and outers if bad
            Originally posted by deevergote
            Just do what PR CB7 said.

            "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)


              thats alot of work for a manual rack conversion. I have a breather on mine like the RealTime Acura guys
              either kill it or drift it...

              2002 Toyota Tundra V8


                This is an awesome write up!!!!! But can I just buy one off of you?!
                I fly by like the coupe grew wings!!!
                My coupe!!!

                Originally posted by Racer_XXX
                Excuse me miss, YOUR FUPA IS IN THE WAY!!!


                  you could have one for 1 5 0 plus shipping and handling
                  and the benefit of better steering
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  Just do what PR CB7 said.

                  "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)


                    not bad...glad you addressed lubrication.

                    are you going to install valves so you can re-lube from time to time?


                      in 2 weeks once i get my welder back
                      Originally posted by deevergote
                      Just do what PR CB7 said.

                      "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)


                        So, which parts do you remove and not replace?
                        Sig removed due to excessive size


                          Originally posted by CB7Junkie View Post
                          So, which parts do you remove and not replace?
                          x2 I'm thinking of doing this next

                          who's real ? who's fake ? that's the people I hate


                            I just finished doing mines...the spring and plastic spacer that holds the cylinder in place..did you just remove that since the cylinder was removed
                            New paint job and bumper 8/8/11
                            tsx retrofit
                            f22b dohc boosted
                            custom gauges pods

                            Motivation is one of the keys to life....tell me "can't" and I wll show you I can


                              Originally posted by Lecco View Post
                              x2 I'm thinking of doing this next
                              basically all the guts of the valve body

                              as for the inside of the rack

                              i took out the cylinder sleeve, being that since i took the seal out,thats what the sleeve is doing, thats the only purpose of it, so no need

                              yes viper i remove the plastic
                              Originally posted by deevergote
                              Just do what PR CB7 said.

                              "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)