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**Boost_Lee** · 08-19-2013, 10:53 PM

I would get a 15x8 wheel and get a 23 or 23.5x8x15 slick. You should me able to hook at that power level and the smaller wheel can shorten your longer transmission gearing. Will you be limiting your boost and power levels for first gear?

The wheel offset is up to you and depends on your suspension. I run a 15x8 +0 with a 23.5 slick in my sig pic. They do stick out but do not rub with my coilovers.

Axles will be up to you if you want peace of mind. Many 500hp cars run stock axles, the trick is to preload at the final stage light. Drive shaft shop does make 90-93 accord axles so custom isn't needed.

For slicks, I've only had experience with m&h, and little experience at that. I like them, but also hear good things about Mickey Thompson. I ordered my slicks directly from them - www.mandhtires.com

**toycar** · 08-20-2013, 12:17 PM

Originally posted by Boost_Lee View Post

I would get a 15x8 wheel and get a 23 or 23.5x8x15 slick. You should me able to hook at that power level and the smaller wheel can shorten your longer transmission gearing. Will you be limiting your boost and power levels for first gear?

The wheel offset is up to you and depends on your suspension. I run a 15x8 +0 with a 23.5 slick in my sig pic. They do stick out but do not rub with my coilovers.

Axles will be up to you if you want peace of mind. Many 500hp cars run stock axles, the trick is to preload at the final stage light. Drive shaft shop does make 90-93 accord axles so custom isn't needed.

For slicks, I've only had experience with m&h, and little experience at that. I like them, but also hear good things about Mickey Thompson. I ordered my slicks directly from them - www.mandhtires.com

Great advice!

-15x8 is golden on this chassis

-You may need to finagle things around a bit so it all fits. As boost lee's pic illustrates, it WILL poke a bit. Plan on working around this.

-15" wheel is going to be better for you and this tranny

x2 on preloading

x2 on drive shaft shop axles(if concerned)

I run Mickey's on everything I race and they are fantastic tires

Boost by gear is do-able, but totally overkill for the power you are talking about making. Invest that money in quality cam/valve train/turbo manifold etc for better gains.

Adjusting pressure by gear is a nice feature, but around 300whp-its totally not needed. Helps sure, but, not needed by any means.

What exactly are you trying to do? 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, desired slip time, whp goal, what exactly are you after here?

**Joey GT-R** · 08-20-2013, 12:22 PM

I like where this thread is going, but I don't want it to be buried....moved.

**2winRB25** · 08-20-2013, 01:01 PM

Originally posted by Boost_Lee View Post

I would get a 15x8 wheel and get a 23 or 23.5x8x15 slick. You should me able to hook at that power level and the smaller wheel can shorten your longer transmission gearing. Will you be limiting your boost and power levels for first gear?

The wheel offset is up to you and depends on your suspension. I run a 15x8 +0 with a 23.5 slick in my sig pic. They do stick out but do not rub with my coilovers.

Axles will be up to you if you want peace of mind. Many 500hp cars run stock axles, the trick is to preload at the final stage light. Drive shaft shop does make 90-93 accord axles so custom isn't needed.

For slicks, I've only had experience with m&h, and little experience at that. I like them, but also hear good things about Mickey Thompson. I ordered my slicks directly from them - www.mandhtires.com

First off I want to thank you for your input and advice on this. You were the one I was hoping to hear from most as I have seen your sig and MRT. Thank you!

Yes I will be limiting the power in 1st.

I am running Neuspeed super cut kit (Koni yellows, Neuseed race springs, bottom perches all way around)

I do not mind any sticking out with slicks and in fact I prefer it.

I am not an experienced racer however I do fully comprehend what your saying about preloading at the final light to prevent CV shafts from breaking.

As for drive shaft shop and CV shafts I see all they make is Level 0 and Level 2.4 (500hp). Not that this is a problem.

If you say M&H has done you right then I will give them a try first as well. How many runs did you get out of them?

**2winRB25** · 08-20-2013, 01:22 PM

Originally posted by toycar View Post

Great advice!

-15x8 is golden on this chassis

-You may need to finagle things around a bit so it all fits. As boost lee's pic illustrates, it WILL poke a bit. Plan on working around this.

-15" wheel is going to be better for you and this tranny

x2 on preloading

x2 on drive shaft shop axles(if concerned)

I run Mickey's on everything I race and they are fantastic tires

Boost by gear is do-able, but totally overkill for the power you are talking about making. Invest that money in quality cam/valve train/turbo manifold etc for better gains.

Adjusting pressure by gear is a nice feature, but around 300whp-its totally not needed. Helps sure, but, not needed by any means.

What exactly are you trying to do? 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, desired slip time, whp goal, what exactly are you after here?

Thank you as well Toycar. You guys are all awesome!

As for 15x8" I am looking at Bassett & Diamond wheels.

What finagling should I expect?

If they poked out a foot on each side I would not care. As long as the car fits in a single lane I'm cool with it.

I'm still debating on DSS CV shafts.

I am looking at a set up that I can run just above 300whp normally and if need be get just under 400 periodically by turning up the boost.

As far as boost by gear I am going to go that route just because it is a nice feature. I think I will find it helpful just starting out.

What I will be doing is 1/4" mile and running around town on Saturday nights (showing off really). I would like to see low 13s or high 12s.

I have been running my RB25 S14 but I have turned the boost up until fuel cut already and it mostly just blows the back tires off. So I am taking advantage of my F22 blowing up and building my Accord for hot street/strip.

**Boost_Lee** · 08-21-2013, 02:07 AM

Originally posted by 2winRB25 View Post

First off I want to thank you for your input and advice on this. You were the one I was hoping to hear from most as I have seen your sig and MRT. Thank you!

Yes I will be limiting the power in 1st.

I am running Neuspeed super cut kit (Koni yellows, Neuseed race springs, bottom perches all way around)

I do not mind any sticking out with slicks and in fact I prefer it.

I am not an experienced racer however I do fully comprehend what your saying about preloading at the final light to prevent CV shafts from breaking.

As for drive shaft shop and CV shafts I see all they make is Level 0 and Level 2.4 (500hp). Not that this is a problem.

If you say M&H has done you right then I will give them a try first as well. How many runs did you get out of them?

No problem. I think a 15x8 +0 wheel with a 23" slick would be fine for you then. I run the level 2.4 axles only for peace of mind, and because I got them through a group buy. I've only ran a total of 7 passes on my slicks, which is why I say I have such little experience with them. I'll hopefully be taking them out again this fall. I might try to move up to a 24.5" slick to help with my gearing, but here is the link for the current ones I run.

http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Racema...5#.UhRXvZJOSSo

I'm sure the wheels you mentioned will be fine. I run some cheap XXRs on mine.

**Raf99** · 08-21-2013, 08:13 AM

Originally posted by Boost_Lee View Post

No problem. I think a 15x8 +0 wheel with a 23" slick would be fine for you then. I run the level 2.4 axles only for peace of mind, and because I got them through a group buy. I've only ran a total of 7 passes on my slicks, which is why I say I have such little experience with them. I'll hopefully be taking them out again this fall. I might try to move up to a 24.5" slick to help with my gearing, but here is the link for the current ones I run.

http://www.mandhtires.com/M-H-Racema...5#.UhRXvZJOSSo

I'm sure the wheels you mentioned will be fine. I run some cheap XXRs on mine.

Any issues with rubbing on the 15x8 when turning? (not that much turning involved, but thinking maybe you avoid full wheel lock while turning)

**Boost_Lee** · 08-21-2013, 12:44 PM

At that offset with a 23" tire I do not have issues. When I had a 26" tire it did rub on the fender liner and a bit on the sideskirt when turning.

**steelbluesleepR** · 08-21-2013, 02:35 PM

as for axles, you might check into the new (not remanufactured) axles that AZ and O'Reilly sell. I used to work in the R&D department for the company that made them and they seem to be pretty high quality. According to my boss that was there, every design is tested in a dedicated test machine up to 600hp. Now, I have no clue what amount of torque they can withstand, but for around 20% of the price of Driveshaft Shop axles, it would be worth checking out. We used to supply a guy that drag races a supra with axles and he never had any complaints.

**2winRB25** · 08-21-2013, 02:55 PM

Originally posted by steelbluesleepR View Post

as for axles, you might check into the new (not remanufactured) axles that AZ and O'Reilly sell. I used to work in the R&D department for the company that made them and they seem to be pretty high quality. According to my boss that was there, every design is tested in a dedicated test machine up to 600hp. Now, I have no clue what amount of torque they can withstand, but for around 20% of the price of Driveshaft Shop axles, it would be worth checking out. We used to supply a guy that drag races a supra with axles and he never had any complaints.

I was actually looking to get some AZ axles because if they break I can just get another set.

I am sure that DSS axles are really good but I could use $800 for other things.

**drummersteve7** · 08-23-2013, 03:53 AM

My experience with the slicks come from our racing CRX,
But from our understanding the 24.5 is where it is at.

The majority of the big dogs are using them for roughly 8 to 10 passes.

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