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    I need help, i'm all of of ideas

    I just recently did a swap on my 92 accord. I put a JDM H22A in the car with an f series tranny. I drove the car two hours home from where I was when we did the swap. I drove the car for about 3 days ok no problems, vtec kicked in fine and shifted normal. By the fourth day of being home it started to act up. It acts like its fuel cutting. I found the other day that one of the O rings on the fuel injectors was leaking fuel on to the intake mai, so I replaced it. After driving it today it still dies, spudders, and will shut off after coming to a red light. On my way home my dad followed me and its slowly died and it wouldnt stay running. It would just chug along and die. Now, with that being said I've done some other research and found that its possible the accord fuel rail I used isn't right. This was quoted on here on a post i found. "One thing you have to remember is injector flow ratings change based on fuel pressure. 345 cc at 43 psi is what the h22 injectors flow at.....but the h22 FPR is not a 43 psi one, it is at 36-38 psi which means those 345cc injectors flow at 310cc.
    if you used the accord fuel rail you are probably running accord fuel pressure with the 370cc injectors, meaning way too much fuel since the injectors are 25cc larger and running a lot mroe pressure than stock." I'm not totally sure if this is the problem. But I am running the accord fuel rail withn the H22 injectors and FPR. Could this have caused my problem for it dying? Everything that I quoted the person said seems exactly what is wrong. My other question is, would this cause my injectors to be fried and I need new ones? I'm unsure exactly if my ecu is a p13 or 28. I ordered it from pherable.net and its a chipped ecu running on a base map and I haven't had it tuned yet. I'm going to if this is all the cause of my problems.
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    #2
    well im running the accord fuel rail with h22 injectors and fpr, i have been fine. As for your other issues im sure someone else knows whats up.

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      #3
      pherable.net strikes again! Thats your prob, their ECUs are crap. I cant say why really, they must just half assedly modify them with incorrect info. I had a customer bring me an 00 Si with a pherable "chipped" ecu and the f$#ker wouldnt idle or run for crap! Swapped back in his stock ECU and it ran fine. Had check engine light on, he thought it was related to not reading his supercharger correctly. No it was just a knock sensor code. Replaced knock sensor and light went away and it ran great on his stock ECU, lol.

      So in my book, Pherable=half assed munky SHIT

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        #4
        Originally posted by Grimsta
        pherable.net strikes again! Thats your prob, their ECUs are crap. I cant say why really, they must just half assedly modify them with incorrect info. I had a customer bring me an 00 Si with a pherable "chipped" ecu and the f$#ker wouldnt idle or run for crap! Swapped back in his stock ECU and it ran fine. Had check engine light on, he thought it was related to not reading his supercharger correctly. No it was just a knock sensor code. Replaced knock sensor and light went away and it ran great on his stock ECU, lol.

        So in my book, Pherable=half assed munky SHIT
        thanks man..i figured it had something to do since the ecu hasnt been tuned yet. I got my buddies p13 from his accord since he his H22 blew up. I'm gonna check what codes i have and fix it tomorrow. I'll post back up once its fixed
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          #5
          k so i've swapped ecu's and i'm only throwing 2 codes...O2 sensor and vtec oil pressure....the car is still running like crap. Spuddering and not hardly running. Something fuel i'm guessing...ANYONE have any other ideas i can try before i pay a bunch of money for a honda tech to fix this
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            #6
            if u have a hard o2 code, it will run like crap ,but i dont think thats ur problems, and the accord fuel rail is fine with the fpr, thats all i use when i do the swaps b/c the prelude feed on the rail is on the other side, so all u can use is the accord, you may wanna start with the basics man, check your firing order , thats the most common misfire and sputtering problem make sure ur plugs are alright, and check for a pulse on your igniter, trust me i work for honda
            Last edited by BIGDOM; 04-27-2008, 10:16 PM.
            -95 JDM H22 LSD-
            -HYTECH Header-
            -Skunk2 IM-

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              #7
              well i did check all the wires and plugs they are all good plus brand new. I had that ecu and the O2 sensor was disabled it said when we took the chip and hooked it up to crome and it said it was running of the map sensor. So after i took out my buddies p13 those are the 2 codes, vtec oil pressure w/e and the o2, i'm gonna extend the wires to hook the O2 back up. I found that the accord rail is fine so i let taht theory go. The spudder is like a hard jerk. Once it catches back if i dont put the clutch in and try and rev it the motor jerks really hard. I'm not totally sure why that is. Is this a fuel problem some where?
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                #8
                how did the old engine run? could it be as simple as fuel pump isnt enough or even a new fuel filter?

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                  #9
                  old engine ran fine, it had a lot miles on it and leaked oil but it ran fine. Filter isnt that old maybe a year or so. I've had the thoughts of the pump or filter
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                    #10
                    For the record, I recommend phearable.net ecus to my swap customers, because I have been more than happy with their products. Received a bad ecu from them once and they replaced it for free with no hassles, John's a good guy and knows his shit. No one can mass produce with 100% perfection. The simple fact is you have to get an engine wired and running properly on a stock ECU before you can switch to a tuned one. Phearable ECUs are intended for 92-95 engine systems, and ignore knock sensors, so the above comments about them are confusing.

                    Anyway, as far as your two codes, you should still run ok (despite emissions) with an 02 sensor unhooked (open loop), and the VTEC pressure sensor was eliminated from honda's jdm engines from 96 on (you don't need it). You can bypass the need for the sensor on your ECU by splicing the (blue) ecu side wire into the VTEC solenoid wire, either at the engine or (to rule out breaks in the wire) at the ECU. VTEC physically won't run anyway when you're low on oil, but when the sensor goes bad, you lose vtec.
                    There are numerous culprits to poor running that will not throw codes- a clogged EGR system (won't throw code), igniter chip going bad, timing, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, ground wires, etc. Cleaning grounds as well as Seafoaming the Intake Manifold and fuel system are good cheap places to start.
                    I am troubleshooting gremlins on my h22 accord right now and trying not to pull my hair out as well....But when you don't know exactly where to look, go over everything possible in order of what is most likely and easiest to check. You'll eventually end up with a very short list of remaining possibilities.

                    Let us know how things go and what the deal was, and good luck!

                    The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
                    After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
                    Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
                    PM me and get it done right!

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