No low end, perfect high end...

[js593]

So, a few things happened to the accord lately, i decided to put it in the garage, and work on it a bit. I had some issues with my catch can, so i removed it. I had fouled plugs (TOTALLY WHITE TIPS!) So im now running lean. The valve cover was leaking in the tubes (fixed). Now, ive got NO lower end power, None what-soever. It jerks a bit, Then when you hit around 2K, its ALL There.

Someone told me "this is all EGR related man, block it off, call it a day" So i did that, And low and behold, no hesitation. Replaced the EGR with one that does NOT leak at all, Same shit. So, i put my old EGR on, Seafoamed the intake manifold (with my old plugs of course), and cleaned the living shit out of it. Put in my new plugs, slapped on my working EGR, and the bugger still has no power on the low end.

its a f22A1, Vibrant cat converter (high flow), Warm air intake, and an exhaust header. The O2 is at the V pipe where it connects (extended the o2 sensor wires to reach to the bottom)

I have NO error codes, and judging by the plugs that i pulled out of the car a week after doing a seafoam, they are White as hell. So now im being told, im running lean, real lean... My o2 sensor is an NTK one, i bought it about 2 years ago, so i dunno when i should change it. I am able to get a Denso one from work for 88 CAD$, and i know to stay away from Bosch.. But seriously.. what else could be wrong with it?

I know its a 1990, but the plugs showing that it runs really lean, is a sign that somehting is really wrong.
What else can i look for?
If you need any more info, lemme know, i'll get it for ya.
-Dan

[tgdrums1990]

Um, this is a shot in the dark here, but check your thermostate ground. That ground has been known to cause issues with loss of power, and even not starting in some cases.

[mayberry]

We need to know if you're running a swap or not. What you describe is as if the timing belt jumped off a tooth. But we need to know what motor you have before we can tell you how to go about diagnosing your issue.

[Shadow1]

We need to know if you're running a swap or not. What you describe is as if the timing belt jumped off a tooth. But we need to know what motor you have before we can tell you how to go about diagnosing your issue.

its a f22A1, Vibrant cat converter (high flow), Warm air intake, and an exhaust header. The O2 is at the V pipe where it connects (extended the o2 sensor wires to reach to the bottom)

answer that question?


try adjusting your timing at the dizzy. you having no bottom end might be because you have the timing retarded all the way.

as far as you running too lean, try changing your fuel filter. might not be getting enough flow to the injectors.

[owequitit]

Was it the rubber grommets on the valve cover that were leaking into the spark plug tubes, or the spark plug tube seals that require you to remove the rocker assembly?

If it is the spark plug tube seals, I am guessing you put the T belt back on 1 tooth off.

[js593]

Timing is dead on. will checl the dizzy and replace fuel filter.

[my 9t9d]

Mine was duing that and I replaced the fuel filter now its fine its not
hard just takes time

[js593]

Yea... i replaced my fuel filter around 20k ago... even when i originally replaced it my milage was shitty. white plugs are not good tho... could it really be that i got a bad filter?

Sorry i was texting it in from my phone, which really sucks. So yeah, the timing is correct for the belt, there is no error on that, however i think the dizzy may in fact be off. Gonna get that timed again and see what happens.

[js593]

Just wanted to report back so far:

Since i changed my plugs, (2 days) just going to work and back has used an unreal ammount of fuel, litterally 1/3 of my tank has dissapeared... Now, seeing that my old plugs noted that my engine was running lean, where could this gas be going? Im not leaking any, but the fumes from the tailpipe smell really rich...

hopefully this tid-bit of info can help you guys help me diagnose this....
Thanks in advance
-dan

[js593]

Bumpage... Anyone got any info based on the update i gave? Ive got an appointment with a mechanic just in case... Hopefully i dont have to go through with it...

[Shadow1]

maybe your FPR is taking a crap. idk


anyone else know? i mean one time he's running lean, now he's running rich. idk man.

[FDAccord]

distributor cap?

[js593]

maybe your FPR is taking a crap. idk


anyone else know? i mean one time he's running lean, now he's running rich. idk man.

Now im running rich? Whoh, where did that come from? I didnt know fuel consumption was a factor in running lean/rich. In fact, it does sound liek the FPR, so tonight, im replacing it, and also replacing my fuel filter. Should only take me 10 mins... sop we'll see what happens.

distributor cap?

Negative, its 2 weeks old, performance rated brass terminals for anti-corrosion.

One thing i would like to know, where does that ground line from the thermostat housing go to? Im going to just put a new ground on there.

[owequitit]

Now im running rich? Whoh, where did that come from? I didnt know fuel consumption was a factor in running lean/rich. In fact, it does sound liek the FPR, so tonight, im replacing it, and also replacing my fuel filter. Should only take me 10 mins... sop we'll see what happens.




Negative, its 2 weeks old, performance rated brass terminals for anti-corrosion.

One thing i would like to know, where does that ground line from the thermostat housing go to? Im going to just put a new ground on there.

1) Are you sure the T-belt is on right? It is SUPER easy to get them off one tooth. I have changed tons of these and it happens from time to time. I have seen Honda technicians do it as well, so it is by no means impossible. Further evidence of it being off a tooth is the following:

Honda allows roughly 15* adjustment on the dizzy to either side. Since one belt tooth is also pretty close to 15*, if you have to clock the dizzy all the way to one side in order to get the timing in spec, then your belt is off a tooth. It should more or less be clocked in the center of the dizzy travel if everything is setup correctly. Don't forget to jump the service connector.

2) It still sounds like a T-belt or dizzy issue to me.

3) That T stat ground is not the issue. It runs pretty much everything, and if it was bad, you would be having all kinds of freaky electrical issues and the car would not run at all most likely.

4) The statement about running rich came from the fact that you have used a ton of gas in a short number of miles. That indicates more fuel is flowing through the system, although if the T belt is off, or the dizzy is telling the ECU to fire the injectors at the wrong time, it may not be burned during combustion.

5) How is your compression? What else did you change other than the seals?

[js593]

1) Are you sure the T-belt is on right? It is SUPER easy to get them off one tooth. I have changed tons of these and it happens from time to time. I have seen Honda technicians do it as well, so it is by no means impossible. Further evidence of it being off a tooth is the following:

Honda allows roughly 15* adjustment on the dizzy to either side. Since one belt tooth is also pretty close to 15*, if you have to clock the dizzy all the way to one side in order to get the timing in spec, then your belt is off a tooth. It should more or less be clocked in the center of the dizzy travel if everything is setup correctly. Don't forget to jump the service connector.

2) It still sounds like a T-belt or dizzy issue to me.

3) That T stat ground is not the issue. It runs pretty much everything, and if it was bad, you would be having all kinds of freaky electrical issues and the car would not run at all most likely.

4) The statement about running rich came from the fact that you have used a ton of gas in a short number of miles. That indicates more fuel is flowing through the system, although if the T belt is off, or the dizzy is telling the ECU to fire the injectors at the wrong time, it may not be burned during combustion.

5) How is your compression? What else did you change other than the seals?

I havent changed anything recently. As for compression, im not quite sure. Everyone says im doing it wrong (which i very well could be) I have the compression unit here. I'll look on how to do it, and report back my number. However, i did remove my FPR, And a SHITLOAD of gas came out of it! (nearly 1/2 cup) I thought that it was supposed to discharge after you turn off the motor? (it was off for nearly 30 mins before anything was taken off)