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Old 08-26-2010, 01:46 PM   #1
tgdrums1990
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TGDRUMS1990 : Active 3 way Install *LOG*

Hey folks. Over the past few months I have been working on custom 3 way speakers.

Since initial completion of the project it has now become a log of trying to make it as good as I could for minimal money.

The tweeters are Dayton ND20 push fit surface mount.



The mids are Tang Band W2-802SC.

The woofers are Jamo 6.5" 4 ohm drivers.





Update : 7/15/11

New Radio
Finally invested in a decent deck. Alpine CDA9813. Time Alighnment, Active 3way crossovers. The works.


Also nabbed a pair of Dayton Audio RS100 drivers at the Parts Express tent sale for 11$ These will be replacing my pods.




Bass is coverd by a Bosten G2 12. The 8" subwoofer is NO MORE, ripped surround.
VR3 2 channel 100watt max amp on the tweets.
Jensen 4 channel 600 watt max amp on doors and mids.
Directed D2400 on the sub.

Total system power is 1000watts ish rms under current configuration.


Ok on to the baffel. My gaol was to have a my box sealed into the cabin of the car isolating it from the trunk to prevent trunk vibrations and imo it really does add a certain level of cleaness that you cant get having your subs in your trunk. Also I wanted the box to be removable so that in the future I could go to a differnt sub or subs. So I built a baffel that the box bolts too.

Bottom


Top Left


Top Right


The Sub itself, Oh yea


And the Front of the box mounted in the car


Side shot of the amps


Top view ( Jensen is mids and woofers and the vr3 amp is for tweets and the Pyle Crossover is no longer installed since new deck upgrade )


The sub amp and some mis wires.



Current Configuration:

Tweets Are 4K 12 db slope
Mids are 200hz HP @ 12db slope and 3.5K @ 18db
Doors Are 90hz HP @12db and 200hz LP @ 12db
Subwoofer is 75hz @ 12db

There are still holes yet. I need to get some real midbass drivers for the doors.

Update 1/8/11

Well still not sure about what im gonna do for a midrange setup. I have become more critical of appearance and wanting to hide the speakers witch makes for a lot of work when try to hide those 4" beasts.

The Jensen amp will be comming out soon. I have a Memphis MCLASS 3004 to replace it.. Just need to add a second batt and upgrade my ground and alt wires...

Also today I orderd a TC Sounds EPIC 12 to replace my bosten g2 12..

Last edited by tgdrums1990; 01-08-2012 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Update Info
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:46 PM   #2
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I need to stop bs'ing and finish my install.

What's your hu? xover points?
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:41 PM   #3
tgdrums1990
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Well here is where the bandaids are. Weakest link in the chain... Deck. I'm running a Sony explode cdx7000 or something like that. Was free.

Xover points... doors 80hz-300 mids 300-4k tweets 4k up. 12db second order active via pyle crossover... ick I know. Will go away when deck is replaced.

I want a higher end Kenwood deck with usb. Gonna start keeping some 2gig sticks around for music... much better than cds... Quality may not be there fully compared to cd's if youask the audio buff. However there are so many acoustical anomalies that it's pointless to be that concerned with it. And you can have a few stick and a wire thats easy to access and your set. Most of your music right there and each stick can be a playlistor what.

Last edited by tgdrums1990; 08-26-2010 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:48 AM   #4
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update

so I got my sytem finished today, see post above for pics, ask if you have any questions.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:22 AM   #5
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I see you put your sub amp under the box, you should get a better place for so you give it some space to get air. What kind of sub you running?
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Old 09-25-2010, 05:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
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I see you put your sub amp under the box, you should get a better place for so you give it some space to get air. What kind of sub you running?
The amp is fine. It's a monoblock designed to run at 1ohm. I'm running it at 4ohm so its luke warm.

The sub comes from the old Sunfire super junior homesub. The driver was made by Tc sounds. Sunfire put their name on it.
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:05 PM   #7
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You're running an awesome type of setup, but I wonder how much you could gain by using a few better components. That Sony HU is a weak point, as well as Jensen or VR3 amps. The Pyle crossover might be okay but probably not the best. I'd still put a fan near that amp though, just to be safe. And yah, CDs do pwn USB. Unless you do lossless USB files, then CDs are better but don't quite reach the level of pwnage.

What are you running for door insulation?
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarthos View Post
You're running an awesome type of setup, but I wonder how much you could gain by using a few better components. That Sony HU is a weak point, as well as Jensen or VR3 amps. The Pyle crossover might be okay but probably not the best. I'd still put a fan near that amp though, just to be safe. And yah, CDs do pwn USB. Unless you do lossless USB files, then CDs are better but don't quite reach the level of pwnage.

What are you running for door insulation?


Exactly, Thanks man im glad you like what i was doing with it... lol. It def had most of anything else ive heard around columbus latly crushed as far as SQ goes and it's only the beggining. Ive learned so much from all of this...

The deck has to go I would love to have a Pioneer P80mp. I belive is the deck that was off the top of my head. Pioneers deck with DSP that has time alighnment, and 16band indevidual eq bands for left and right channels and 3 way active crossovers and such.

As for the amps. Since highs dnt take shit for power to reproduce I figured the VR3 amp is acually plenty sine being used 4khz up. I dnt really need a whole lotta power. Hince why im facing the drivers at my face... I think those currnt drivers are wired for 88db with one watt not bad for being a meter from your face. Im acually redoing my pods and going to a sound bar. So the pods are no more.


Your 100% correct on the cd's are better vs mp3 on thumb driver. However im all for convience. I dnt wanna mes with cds any more deal with skipsor any of that. And since I run esp motor mounts and everything their are so many forign noises in my cabin that while driving i could never hear a difrance between the 2. Least not with my current setup. So thats why im after usb in this instance.

Nope no dapmening on doors yet. I wanna do a layer on the inside of the door... well more like strips. And then one one the outside under the door panel. Prolly just dynomat or somthiing as good that I can find cheaper... Must do reasearch. Will cross that bridge when i can afford to.

Oh and here is a sneak peak of whats to come muhahaha.


Last edited by tgdrums1990; 09-30-2010 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:49 PM   #9
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wall-o'-tweeters
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Old 09-30-2010, 02:28 PM   #10
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wall-o'-tweeters
hahaha i remember that. damn. long time ago. I still got a bunch of those basterds lol.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:25 PM   #11
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Woofer upgrade time!!
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
Woofer upgrade time!!
no shit it will def be the weakest link in my system. I do like the sdmiles it puts on peoples faces. I wil proly change it to a dual 10 config at some point but right now. It will work.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Woofer upgrade time!!
Where is your shitz at? i have had time to build almoust 2 pods now... I cant wait to see yours... Too bad your not closer
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:35 AM   #14
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School takes all my time plus I can't finalize a location. I think I'll mix both of my ideas together. I wanted kickpanels for the power handling a sealed enclosure but I had to give up leg space. So I may just go back to the doors and build a sealed pod for the door.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
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School takes all my time plus I can't finalize a location. I think I'll mix both of my ideas together. I wanted kickpanels for the power handling a sealed enclosure but I had to give up leg space. So I may just go back to the doors and build a sealed pod for the door.
Ah i see. Yea i had always wanted to do a sealed pod for the doors. My idea was to build the pod onto the door panel. But once i started thinkin everything out. There were gonna be so many size restriants and depth issues with the window I decided to just go OB. I really need dynomat tho holy christ.
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:10 PM   #16
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I meant the VR3 amp probably has greater distortion than other amps. If you're going to run amps to all channels in your system, I'd try to find a headunit with NO internal amplifier. Find something that just gives you 8v pre-amp outputs, the lack of an internal amplifier means less potential interference and less heat generation inside your headunit.

And a pod in the door panel isn't hard at all...
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarthos View Post
I meant the VR3 amp probably has greater distortion than other amps. If you're going to run amps to all channels in your system, I'd try to find a headunit with NO internal amplifier. Find something that just gives you 8v pre-amp outputs, the lack of an internal amplifier means less potential interference and less heat generation inside your headunit.

And a pod in the door panel isn't hard at all...
This is true. Once i get workin again i will upgrade the deck for sure and maybe some amps later

Really? I gusse it depends on how you go about doing things... Im really not even sure how I would go about doing an enclosure in the door to be honest. Im still a rookie in the manor of fabbing things. Im more of a designer than anything. But building shit is just so much fun.
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:53 AM   #18
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What I did was took the two factory speaker grilles out (just a few screws on the back of the panel, cut out some wooden rings to mount the speakers in, took a few little pieces of wood to hold the rings in place then wrapped it in a layer of fiberglass. Then paint or wrap however you want. When I was done, I just had to screw the pods onto the panels and pop them into the door.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:40 PM   #19
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What I'm going to do is.
1. Wrap the lower corner of the door panel in glass to get a mold.
2. Take the door panel off, roll the window down and glass into the hole and around it so I'll have enough material to connect to the door panel mold.
3. Cut a hole in the door panel mold and glass the ring to the inside/bottom panel mold.
4. Connect both panels and reinforce, then deaden with modeling clay and lead to reduce resonance.

It should be almost flush with the door panel when I'm done. The speaker is fairly deep at 4 ish inches.
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
What I'm going to do is.
1. Wrap the lower corner of the door panel in glass to get a mold.
2. Take the door panel off, roll the window down and glass into the hole and around it so I'll have enough material to connect to the door panel mold.
3. Cut a hole in the door panel mold and glass the ring to the inside/bottom panel mold.
4. Connect both panels and reinforce, then deaden with modeling clay and lead to reduce resonance.

It should be almost flush with the door panel when I'm done. The speaker is fairly deep at 4 ish inches.
Sounds sick. I have always wondering what a car would sound like with acaul enclosure for the drivers in the doors that are designed right ( Meaning given proper amount of VAS... Not choked to death).
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