How did you take off the bottom bolt of your torque mount?

[Bad_dude]

Just got my front torque mount today. I was excited b/c this will fix my front shaking when in reverse.
I got PB Blaster and WD40 sprayed on the top and bottom bolts for a week to soak in for easier taking off. My car does not have rust on the bolts so should be easy right? NOT. I got the top bolt out with the breaker bar easy.
I cannot reach the bottom bolt but not enough leverage to break it loose. The freaking radiator hose is in the way and with the wrench, I don't have enough room to turn it.
What did you guys use to take the bottom bolt off? I wonder if the mount was changed before and some one used permanent thread locker on it?
Please give specific details of how you took the bottom bolt off when you changed yours out.

Just to make sure, the torque has no weight bearing on it, so I don't need to jack the oil pan up with wood and floor jack right?

Thanks.

[dj_ender]

Just got my front torque mount today. I was excited b/c this will fix my front shaking when in reverse.
I got PB Blaster and WD40 sprayed on the top and bottom bolts for a week to soak in for easier taking off. My car does not have rust on the bolts so should be easy right? NOT. I got the top bolt out with the breaker bar easy.
I cannot reach the bottom bolt but not enough leverage to break it loose. The freaking radiator hose is in the way and with the wrench, I don't have enough room to turn it.
What did you guys use to take the bottom bolt off? I wonder if the mount was changed before and some one used permanent thread locker on it?
Please give specific details of how you took the bottom bolt off when you changed yours out.

Thanks.

Just jack up the car and add a small pipe to the end of your wrench. You will never be able to generate enough torque with the car not jacked up.

[deevergote]

Keep in mind that one side is not a bolt... if I recall correctly, it's solid metal with what seems like a bolt head (it's been a long time... but I remember trying to turn something that was never meant to turn!)

[Bad_dude]

I tried to turn the bolt from the passenger's side. I turn it toward the firewall as SteveB suggested. I think the nut on the driver's side is welded on to prevent it from loosing up or turning.
My wrench is about 12" long. Now I got to go and find a pipe to use as a cheater bar. I wonder if I can get my breaker bar and a socket down there?

Thanks.

[thepowderblue]

Use a impact.

[quaidum]

Use a impact.

he probably would have tried that if it was an option

[Bad_dude]

Use a impact.

It's hard to fit an impact in there without removing the radiator and other surrounding parts.

[thepowderblue]

I doubt the rad. Maybe a fan. Its a 10 minute job to remove and replace a rad fan.
Why are you even asking. Its not rocket since. Remove what you have to.

[Bad_dude]

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I'll get a crack at it again next week.

[Straight Success]

I used a long wrench, or did I use a breaker bar and a socket. I know it was one of the two. I do remember you have only about 5"-6" of travel to work with between the rad. fan and the header.

[Bad_dude]

I used a long wrench, or did I use a breaker bar and a socket. I know it was one of the two. I do remember you have only about 5"-6" of travel to work with between the rad. fan and the header.

Thanks buddy. Very little room. I am more worry about hitting the upper radiator hose and bust it. Just have to be careful. I'll jack the car up to get it closer to me to give me more leverage. How long of a wrench do you suggest b/c the longest I got is 12".
Thanks.

[Straight Success]

Thanks buddy. Very little room. I am more worry about hitting the upper radiator hose and bust it. Just have to be careful. I'll jack the car up to get it closer to me to give me more leverage. How long of a wrench do you suggest b/c the longest I got is 12".
Thanks.

I remember now. I used two wrenches. I placed one 12" long onto the bolt, and used another one at the other end (put the circular part of the leverage wrench onto the two prong part of the wrench connected to the bolt) for leverage. Worked like a charm, and gives you more elbow and knuckle room.

[andyrooo]

i noticed when i replaced my clutch that when you unbolt the underside crossmember on one side, you can take the core support off with like 5-6 bolts and the torque mount is connected to that and comes out with ease, if you really can't get it out any other way

[Bad_dude]

i noticed when i replaced my clutch that when you unbolt the underside crossmember on one side, you can take the core support off with like 5-6 bolts and the torque mount is connected to that and comes out with ease, if you really can't get it out any other way

The problem is getting leverage on it. I post this thread just to get an idea of how the others are doing it. To see if I can copy their techniques instead of taking the fan and what not to get to the bolt. The problem is I can reach the bolt but I cannot get enough room to turn the wrench. The bolts only require 47 lb-ft each. So not that much force is needed to remove.
Just got my inserts today and the new mount is for a manual which has the same part number as for the auto.
I'll try again tomorrow.
I don't need to hold the engine up with jack and wood for this mount right?

Thanks.

[Bad_dude]

I got it done last Thursday. It took an hour. I bought the inserts to put in since the mount the same shape as the manual one. I had to squeeze the top part of the mount in b/c the width on the new mount was a little wider but nothing dramatic about the reinstallation. The bottom nut was not on very tight, but it was just hard to get to. I did it without having the jack the car up nor having to support the engine with wood and floor jack. Put antiseize grease on it. But shouldn't we put some non permanent thread locker on instead? I was afraid it would come loose over time.
No more shake what so ever in reverse. In D4 and neutral, there was a little shake than normal but not very bad at all. I did notice the wheel hops are gone. I am driving it gently now so the mount will break in. I got the inserts at Autozone special order for $17.99 plus tax.

Any one know if the inserts will work for the driver's mount and the trans mount? My rear mount seems to do fine for now since barely any shake at all.

Thanks all for the help.