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    EGR Cleaning, replacement plugs?

    I have the replacement plug part number for the 6 top holes, but the hole on the driver side that faces horizontally is larger in diameter. I cannot find a part number for that plug. I really don't wanna use epoxy or solder for this. I just wanna hammer in a shiny new plug in the top 6 and the one on the side and be done with it.

    Getting ready to do my a6/h23 + obd2 H22 throttle body + Bisi heat shield IM gasket + Urethane filled rear mount + glowshift oil pressure sandwich adapter swap.

    #17199-PT3-AHM - 6 top holes.
    #??????-???-??? - 1 side hole?

    #2


    A visual aid for the text impaired.

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      #3
      Originally posted by DunKrS View Post
      I have the replacement plug part number for the 6 top holes, but the hole on the driver side that faces horizontally is larger in diameter. I cannot find a part number for that plug. I really don't wanna use epoxy or solder for this. I just wanna hammer in a shiny new plug in the top 6 and the one on the side and be done with it.

      Getting ready to do my a6/h23 + obd2 H22 throttle body + Bisi heat shield IM gasket + Urethane filled rear mount + glowshift oil pressure sandwich adapter swap.

      #17199-PT3-AHM - 6 top holes.
      #??????-???-??? - 1 side hole?
      I already drilled that horizonatal one and found out later on that I shouldn't have done so because it was useless, when I looked through it, the EGR passages were already shining from cleaning the other six plugs ....

      I wish I didn't do it, took me a while to find something to block it off with,
      Don't repeat my mistake, do the 6 plugs only, if the EGR problem still persist CODE 12 ..... DO NOT, DO NOT drill the horizontal one, the problem could be from the valve itself or the solenoid in the map box.

      Good luck as this wasn't an easy job, my advice is to do it on the bench unless you are a professional driller and can do it clean while still on the car.

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        #4
        For the 7th big plug on the end, just fill the drilled hole in the plug w/ jbweld and then file the outside face down to fresh brass, good to go. This could and will apply to the other 6 aswell, since they're good quality brass plugs. The new honda ones are wicked cheap If the runners are filled w/ carbon you'll be glad you removed all 7 plugs, it's good to go across via the 7th port.

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          #5
          Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
          For the 7th big plug on the end, just fill the drilled hole in the plug w/ jbweld and then file the outside face down to fresh brass, good to go. This could and will apply to the other 6 aswell, since they're good quality brass plugs. The new honda ones are wicked cheap If the runners are filled w/ carbon you'll be glad you removed all 7 plugs, it's good to go across via the 7th port.
          Trust me it is not necessary, been there done that and it took me a while "where I live" to find something to plug the 7th port it is better if he keeps it as is because as soon as he will drill it he won't find any carbon blockade.

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            #6
            Just because you didn't find anything there, doesn't mean anyone else won't. When I removed mine, I found PLENTY of gooey carbon buildup. I believe the plug needs removed in order to fully get the system cleaned.
            Originally posted by Mishakol129
            Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

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              #7
              Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
              Just because you didn't find anything there, doesn't mean anyone else won't. When I removed mine, I found PLENTY of gooey carbon buildup. I believe the plug needs removed in order to fully get the system cleaned.
              If you are doing it on the bench you don't need to. I soaked mine in water after carb cleaning it off bench and let it dry in the sun for 2 days back in

              August then hit with the air blower to cleaning it before installing .. then doubt kept crawling into my mind so I drilled the 7th port but found nothing .. everything looked shinny from the inside.

              Actually I came to another conclusion, if you have compressed water between your hands drill only the 7th port without the other 6 and the EGR passages will be cleaned, yes all of them.

              However, if the drilling/cleaning is done on the car, there might be deposits left.

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                #8
                Already drilled all 7 out and got the manifold spotless inside andbout so that is not an issue. As I said in my first post I do not want to use jb weld or solder. I guess I'll chop up my spare a1 manifold and punch the plugs all out from the back side to use in my a6 manifold. I was hoping there was also a part # for the 7th plug so I could just buy all new ones, whack them in the holes, and call it a job well done. Thanks

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by DunKrS View Post
                  Already drilled all 7 out and got the manifold spotless inside andbout so that is not an issue. As I said in my first post I do not want to use jb weld or solder. I guess I'll chop up my spare a1 manifold and punch the plugs all out from the back side to use in my a6 manifold. I was hoping there was also a part # for the 7th plug so I could just buy all new ones, whack them in the holes, and call it a job well done. Thanks
                  did you read what I posted before you drilled it ?! or you already drilled it before reading ?!

                  what did you find through the 7th plug, any carbon build up there ?! there's no Honda replacement for that 7th plug because it isn't supposed to be drilled.

                  What's done is done and now you have to chop a manifold instead of selling it for cash so you could find replacement the plug and it won't work.

                  JB weld is the best solution, check the pic posted by DJ Ender on his EGR job

                  very neat work
                  Last edited by EsperHamid; 11-06-2013, 02:33 PM.

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                    #10
                    I had already drilled it out before I posted. No worries I don't mind chopping an a1 manifold up. It's not worth much anyway. Most people are swapping in an a6 like I did. Never seen anyone do anything with a1s but junk them. I'll lop the flange and part of the runners off in case I decide to go with itbs or something in the future. =p

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                      #11
                      I am doing all this work on an a6 manifold I'm getting ready to swap on as I stated in my first post so it's all out and on a bench. It was severely carbon'd up and it is spotless clean inside and out now.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by DunKrS View Post
                        I am doing all this work on an a6 manifold I'm getting ready to swap on as I stated in my first post so it's all out and on a bench. It was severely carbon'd up and it is spotless clean inside and out now.
                        ًWhy emphasizing on the A6 ?! what benefits over A1

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                          #13
                          Why use pressed plugs when you can tap the holes and use set screws/threaded plugs? There are a lot of places that sell tap and die sets for cheap. considering this is soft metal you don't need an expensive set. Threaded plugs/set screws are a dime a dozen....

                          Replacing the brass plugs with screws only makes sense. It will make future cleaning that much easier....


                          As for the question of A6 over A1 intake manifold. With 500+ posts you would think by now you would know the difference between the two. Sorry if that may seem blunt.......... but really!
                          Last edited by GhostAccord; 11-07-2013, 07:54 AM.
                          MR Thread
                          GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                          by Chappy, on Flickr

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
                            Why use pressed plugs when you can tap the holes and use set screws/threaded plugs? There are a lot of places that sell tap and die sets for cheap. considering this is soft metal you don't need an expensive set. Threaded plugs/set screws are a dime a dozen....

                            Replacing the brass plugs with screws only makes sense. It will make future cleaning that much easier....


                            As for the question of A6 over A1 intake manifold. With 500+ posts you would think by now you would know the difference between the two. Sorry if that may seem blunt.......... but really!
                            tap and die sets need a skilled person else the IM is bye bye

                            Oh haven't noticed I am already 500+ posts ...well Oyajicool told me once it was more aggressive than the A1 that's I can remember

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by EsperHamid View Post
                              [B]tap and die sets need a skilled person else the IM is bye bye
                              Not true at all. Yes it takes a bit of patience and you need to get the tap straight. Other than that it's as easy as twisting a screw driver or turning a wrench. Even then if you did manage to tap it on an angle. The set screw/plug will still screw in and seal.... It just won't be straight.



                              The A6 manifold has a dual runner setup with intake air bypass plates. This allows the intake to make use of two different length runners based on engine RPM. It will use the longer primary runners in lower RPM and then open up the short runners for higher RPM.... If you want to learn more look up IAB or intake air bypass system.
                              Last edited by GhostAccord; 11-07-2013, 08:12 AM.
                              MR Thread
                              GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                              by Chappy, on Flickr

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