SUSP: Taking that POS rotor off

[wed3k]

sup guys, just finished my brake change with the hub over rotor design.
so...im sure everyone knows how to take the caliper, just one 14mm bolt for the hose and two 17mm bolts for the mounting.

take that bitch out.

1. blast off the axle nut
2. take cotter pin and castle nut off (17mm) and seperate the lower ball joint out with whatever method but i prefer this way...

i used a pry bar to fill the gap

3. push the axle through the spline? or hole or whatever
4. bust loose the 4-14mm bolts facing towards you but dont take them off, just loosen them like 180 degrees...(you might want to do this b4 taking the axle out otherwise it'll just spin. but if you have a impact gun, then go for it)
5. flip the whole assembly around and there will be 4 star shaped bolts, a 12pt 10mm socket will do. so bust those out.
6. get 4 10mmx1.25 and 60mm bolts long. costed me 6 dollars at orchard supply.
7. install and thread like halfway in and follow this video...
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/w00t/rotor.wmv
well, if you are on 56k then it sucks for you but i shall explain it. once all of the bolts are in, just hammer the bolts in, and the whole assembly should pop out. remove the bolts
8. you should get something like this.

remove the 4-14mm bolts.
9. replace rotor and reassemble the assembly onto the car. the star shaped bolts should go on TIGHT, as tight as you can because it is supposed to be pressed on but fuck honda.

10. after that reverse assembly and light off a couple of these in celerbration of your new rotors
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums...01010004_G.avi
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/w00t/pete.avi
http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/w00t/firework.avi

[jdmkid]

i will be doing this 2morrow

[H23 Lude]

nice write up

[wed3k]

please dont be a dumb ass like me and double check ALL the bolts because i was driving and i realized that this knocking sound came from the two caliepr mounting bolts that i forgot to tighten.
had to go back home and tighten them and burned myself on the hot rotor and was sweating like a pig in this cali summer heat
good luck ryan!

[Boost_Lee]

w00t nice job man, only problem i see is how im gonna 'press' the hubs/beaings onto the knuckle since im converting. Were your balljoints easy? how about the reinstall on the balljoint, i heard thats a pita?

too bad i wasted all my fireworks on my turbo install

[wed3k]

w00t nice job man, only problem i see is how im gonna 'press' the hubs/beaings onto the knuckle since im converting. Were your balljoints easy? how about the reinstall on the balljoint, i heard thats a pita?

too bad i wasted all my fireworks on my turbo install

you dont press the hub assembly back in, you just tightened the screws liek whoa.

which ball joint? the upper or lower? i havent replaced any of them but the upper: all you have to do is replace the whole lupper control arm.

not so sure about the lower though.

[Clueless]

I'm kinda confused of your process of removing the rotor...is this for a stock brake setup?

Caleb

[wed3k]

I'm kinda confused of your process of removing the rotor...is this for a stock brake setup?

Caleb

no, it is for the rear drums...

[Clueless]

no, it is for the rear drums...

Any way to get the front rotor pressed out without taking it to the machine shop? They I need new bearing and rotors and machine shop charges 40 bucks to press it out and back in again....btw, I'm cheap(if you are wondering why I wanna do this myself).

Caleb

[wed3k]

Any way to get the front rotor pressed out without taking it to the machine shop? They I need new bearing and rotors and machine shop charges 40 bucks to press it out and back in again....btw, I'm cheap(if you are wondering why I wanna do this myself).

Caleb

this whole DIY is dedicated towards your question.

[Clueless]

this whole DIY is dedicated towards your question.

I keep getting hung up where you put new bolts in the back and hammer it.... how is that suppose to press the spline out to replace the rotor? Sorry, just confused....

Caleb

[Clueless]

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+%28AKEBONO%29

Would this link be of any help? From the looks of it, it's rotor, bearing, hub... uh...

Caleb

[FishyMan]

hahah best ever funny ur vids.. and mad props for starting a new trend of doing VIDS.... thanks/..

im just unsure bought popping the joint out. the 1st step. you used a screw driver ? and the prybar? did you do in unison? cuz i just see the driver. but anyhow im sure the other steps will be easy if i ever get to it.


also
6. get 4 10mmx1.25 and 60mm bolts long. costed me 6 dollars at orchard supply.

so u used those to get the rotor out right? but when u thread it 1/2 way how did u hammer it cuz isn't the thread gonna be in the way?

if only u did the vids for the joints hehe.thansk again

[wed3k]

I keep getting hung up where you put new bolts in the back and hammer it.... how is that suppose to press the spline out to replace the rotor? Sorry, just confused....

Caleb

because if you try and just start punding away and prying at the rotor, you will just slowly seperate the wheel bearing from the hub and not the hub from the whole knuckle.
it happened from the first time i tried it and i got nowhere, i am very lucky i didnt damage the wheel bearing cuz those DO require to be pressed ina nd out.

the new bolts are longer which creates space between the hub assembly and knuckle. trust me, it works if you have the right tools and and bolts.
the vid is also there to prove it.

hahah best ever funny ur vids.. and mad props for starting a new trend of doing VIDS.... thanks/..

im just unsure bought popping the joint out. the 1st step. you used a screw driver ? and the prybar? did you do in unison? cuz i just see the driver. but anyhow im sure the other steps will be easy if i ever get to it.


also
6. get 4 10mmx1.25 and 60mm bolts long. costed me 6 dollars at orchard supply.

so u used those to get the rotor out right? but when u thread it 1/2 way how did u hammer it cuz isn't the thread gonna be in the way?

if only u did the vids for the joints hehe.thansk again

the screwdriver is just there to illustrate where you have to put something to fill that gap. it is better if you try and get something to fill it all the way when the rotor is jacked up.
for example: i have the floor jack and i jack the rotor up, make sure it is pretty stable, otherwise the rotor will slip off and uncompress (might hurt someone/something)
i get my prybar and put it in sideways. so with the floor jack lever in my right hand and the pry bar in my left hand...i start to lower the jack. you can feel the pry bar start to tighten as the gap decrreases. when the jack is all the way down or near the end, you should hear a pop or a bang. and if you dont and the pry bar or tool is still stuck in there. just step on the rotor or use the pry bar as leverage.

to also help ease the difficulty, you can try and hammer away at the lower control arm, being careful that you dont hit the balljoint or the threads.
because,,, vibration is good for breaking shit loose.

you want to thread the bolts halfway so that it is connected to the wheel bearing part. i made the mistake to kee[p threading it and it just pushed the hub away from the wheel bearing which would be bad because i would have the hub assembly out but not the rotor or bearing.

[Clueless]

So what you are saying is.... If you remove the hub assembly from the steering knuckle, you can pry the bearing off?

Caleb