i've searched and found a couple diy's on this but i want a very detailed one with pics if thats possible? i've already decided on arm can on ebay for like $70 which isnt too bad at all. but yeah if someone could write one up, that would be great. thank you.
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SteveB's is pretty accurate, but I needed a pitman arm puller to seperate the ball joint bolt from the arm. After it popped, undo the two nuts holding it in place, hit the bolts with a rubber mallet and there you go.
Once you do it a couple times its like gravy, I can do it fast and with confidence now.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine. -
hm? never saw that thread, you have a link?Comment
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its really a huge ass fork...
to change the arms its really easy.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
Retro!
Hater
I love nooBs...They make me look good
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Just hit the top of the knuckle with a hammer.
Works like a charm, just put your purse down and put some ass into it. Then, unbolt the two upper ball joint bolts and voila. 
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What's a bolt joint?
Anyway, the ball joints come with the control arms when you get them from arm-can. Honestly, the upper control arms for our cars should ALWAYS come with ball joints, as replacing them can weaken the metal.
It's 5 bolts and a cotter pin. You really don't need a DIY for it. Just undo the two 10mm bolts holding the cover over the ball joint's castle nut. Pull the cotter pin out, and undo the castle nut (14mm, I believe). Since you won't be re-using the ball joint, you can just smack the bolt that held the castle nut and cotter pin with a hammer to pop it out. Now you go under the hood and undo the two 17mm nuts holding the anchor bolts in place. Once you do that, you should be able to wiggle it free.
If you can get it out with the anchor bolts unmoved, you can line up the new ones in roughly the same position. To install the new one, do the reverse. Be sure to use a new cotter pin! It should be included. I had to trim mine to make it fit, since the hole on the bolt went straight back instead of side to side (the arm-can ball joints have 2 holes, unlike the OEM ones, which have 4).
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That makes no sense... What knuckle are you hitting with a hammer? Where do we have two upper ball joint bolts? If you want to help someone that doesn't know what they're doing, at least know what you're talking about yourself... The last thing we need is someone killing themselves because they didn't understand instructions.Originally posted by straightedgeJust hit the top of the knuckle with a hammer. Works like a charm, just put your purse down and put some ass into it. Then, unbolt the two upper ball joint bolts and voila.
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Changing the upper control arms takes like 15-20 minutes a side. What he means is this Mike...Originally posted by deevergote
Jack up corner you'll be replacing the arm on, remove wheel. Remove upper arm joint protector cover, cotter pin & nut. Get a mini-sledge or largest hammer you have, hit the upper portion of the knuckle where the bore is located (where the upper control arm joint goes into the knuckle)...make sure to hit the knuckle part of the bore solid and hard, should take 5-8 hits or so and the joint will pop out, hasn't failed me yet. In this case, since you're replacing the joint anyhow, feel free to use a ball-joint fork/separator as well. Anyhow, after the joint is broken free, then remove the upper control arm anchor bolt nuts (2 per upper arm, located in the engine bay). Install your new arm, install the 2 nuts on top of the arm, torque to 47 lb-ft each. Finally, fit the joint (push down on the arm) into the knuckle bore, install castle nut, torque to 32 lb-ft, install cotter pin & joint protector cover. Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts to 80 lb-ft. Highly recommended for any joint replacement, to get alignment done after you're doing with all suspension mods/fixes.
No photos necessary, this job is extremely easy. Get in there and do it yourself man, get a manual so you don't ask these questions and for pics to do EVERY job you need to do, waste of time!Comment
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Exactly, Thanks Cisco.
edit: I meant the two BUSHING bolts on the inside of the fender, not ball joints. My mistake.Last edited by straightedge; 12-06-2006, 01:59 PM.watComment
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thanks cisco, i will be doing this as soon as they come in.Comment
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Aside from the torque specs, that's exactly what I just said two posts up, Cisco!Originally posted by HondaFan81
When you give incorrect or unclear information, it can be dangerous... especially when dealing with suspension and brakes (you can blow your motor and be fine, but if one of those things goes out, you can die). I hate to sound like Ricky, but there really is a LOT of information going around that is either blatantly false, or so hard to understand that people can't help but do things wrong.
If you don't know for SURE that you know what you're talking about (firsthand experience) don't say anything... or make it clear that you're repeating something you've heard, rather than stating something you know to be true based on experience. If you DO know what you're talking about, and wish to help, at least take the time to make it clear what you are saying. Remember, glazing over the details may be fine to refresh someone's memory, but for a first-timer, they need details. If you don't have the time, focus, or writing skills to convey that information properly, don't bother.
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