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    H22 Type S

    I was wamting to know how fast will a H22a Type S run in a 1/4 mile with basics such as, I/H/E Light crank pully, light flywheel and wires with LSD?
    Looking in to it and wanna know some times from others.
    thanks

    #2
    teeny bit faster than a normal h22. 14s?


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      #3
      How fast is it capable of, or how fast will it be? Two different questions, really. If you can't drive, it'll be slow. If the engine is not healthy, it will be slow.

      Unless you can find a GOOD Type S for a reasonable price, a normal H22 with LSD would be cheaper (the transmission is the same anyway, as I don't believe you can use the Type S transmission on the CB7 without heavy modification) For the price difference of a Type S swap compared to the normal H22, you could probably upgrade the valvetrain on the regular H22, and maybe even afford a nice set of cams. That alone would put you over the Type S output, if done correctly.

      The Type S is a nice motor (as is the Euro R), but the slightly better materials and finish, paired with 20 extra horsepower... not worth all that money, unless you want the bling factor.






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        #4
        Ok I see, I reall should have said i already own a H22a with lsd and the mods listed, but i been thinking about getting the type s internals. cams, pistons. but i wanna know if ill get good gains?

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          #5
          if youre going to be gutting the block and head to put TypeS stuff in, youre going to gain what, 10hp? not worth it IMO, if youre going to spend the time/work/effort/money, build it with something worthwhile.


          - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
          - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
          - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
          Current cars:
          - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
          - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by godsider
            Ok I see, I reall should have said i already own a H22a with lsd and the mods listed, but i been thinking about getting the type s internals. cams, pistons. but i wanna know if ill get good gains?
            Headwork!! Port and polish your head, flat top valves, and Jun cams.. My friend gained like 15-20 whp with that combination and put down 205whp with a greddy header.. he originally put down 185 whp with a stock motor........

            oh btw my friend has the Jun cam profile so he can make you that cam with a billet core..
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              #7
              There are aftermarket parts out there that will give much better gains for about the same price. Unless you can get the Type S stuff really cheap, it's not even worth the effort of pulling the motor apart to install it all.

              Supoosedly, the Type S head is made of better material. I heard that from a fairly knowledgable source, but I've never confirmed it. Other than that, the intake manifold and header add some power. So with the internals and cams, you're looking at maybe 10hp, as cpmike said. If it's worth it to you, then go for it... but the cost of doing that for 10hp is pretty steep. The Type S has 20hp on the regular H22 (30 if you have an H22A1). That's not really a crazy difference.


              If you buy used components, they may fail at any time. If you buy new, they'll cost as much as decent aftermarket stuff. Either way, the aftermarket is superior. The selection is greater, and you can see greater gains.






              Comment


                #8
                The Type-S is good for 20HP over the regular H22. The additional power comes from:

                -an improved downpipe with a 2.5" collector and exhaust
                -higher lift VTEC cams
                -11.0:1 compression
                -Hand polished ports

                From what I understand, everything else (intake manifold, exhaust primaries, valve size, etc) is the same as a regular H22...

                IMO, money would be better spent on a nice set of cams, valvesprings and retainers. Skunk2 Pro 2s with RM valvesprings and retainers would go for about $1K, and would make your H much faster than whatever you'd have to spend to pull the old motor and swap in a Type-S. I plan on getting that valvetrain for my Type-S eventually.


                Originally posted by lordoja
                im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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                  #9
                  TRrue, What else mods can i pick up? Is a 2.5 collector really make a big diff? I have a Ebay 2.5 cat back with obx Header but im bout to install my new RSR Exmag exhaust, wich is only 2.33 inch. Will i loss power? Name brand vs ebay, I donno. And what about Skunk 2 Manifold and throttle body. My friend has one and i didnt see he got very much of a gain I donno.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by godsider
                    TRrue, What else mods can i pick up? Is a 2.5 collector really make a big diff? I have a Ebay 2.5 cat back with obx Header but im bout to install my new RSR Exmag exhaust, wich is only 2.33 inch. Will i loss power? Name brand vs ebay, I donno. And what about Skunk 2 Manifold and throttle body. My friend has one and i didnt see he got very much of a gain I donno.
                    Any bottleneck in the exhaust is no good, especially early in the flow path. Try and find out how big the OBX downpipe is as I'm looking to pick up an OBX header. In any case, I think 2.5" is the ideal exhaust diameter for the H22.

                    As far as the Skunk2 IM and TB, they are both a waste of money. It would be better to pony up the $400-500 or so and get a custom IM made.

                    I don't think the H22 responds as well to bolt-ons as the F22/F23/H23. I know a MR/OBX header will make a good 10-12whp on a F22/F23/H23, but I doubt they would make more than 3-5whp on an H as the DC Sports header made 4whp. CAI is good for noise at best. A bigger, free-flowing exhaust is always better than stock. If you really wanna make power though you gotta open it up


                    Originally posted by lordoja
                    im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thats kinda what i thought but since it was a ebay no name exhaust i thought maybe the RSR Exmag will still out perform, even if diameter is smaller. Or maybe i could weld the RSR muffler on the 2.5 no name exhaust pipe? would that be smarter. I wanna stay with low noise but with power

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Wait until the Bisimoto header comes out. $600, and I'm absolutely positive it will give gains akin to those seen by headers costing twice as much.






                        Comment


                          #13
                          Do not cut up the RSR Ex Mag Catback. That is pry one of the best exhaust on the market. Great flowing, one awesome DD exhaust, and a nice deep growling tone when opened up. I'd say the OBX Header does the justice, but what style is it; 4-2-1 one piece, two piece, or a 4-1 one piece?? Also the time you can run will also be based on how well the engine is managed and how healthy it is as Deev said. Another big factor is the H tuned or un-tuned?? Also what kind of H you want to run; All motor, All motor w/ nitrous, or Turbo down the road?

                          If staying all motor i'd say save your money and don't waste it on the Type-S stuff. I'd do something along the lines of this:

                          Head Ported and Polished, Race Valves, Springs, Retainers, Cams, Cam Gears, 4-1 Race Header, 2.5" collector, Ex-Mag Catback, Injectors (Bigger), AFPR, CAI w/ K&N Filter.

                          Depending on what kind of stages you get for the P&P, and how much you can get the parts for it'd cost somewhere along the lines of $900-$2000. That alone with a nice solid tune will yield you a great power band. I'd say somewhere around the 250whp mark if you play the cards right.
                          Last edited by xwade01; 05-05-2007, 04:55 AM.

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                            #14
                            Thanks for the advice . I wanna stay all motor but also thinking turbo Not sure. How do i convert an obx header to a 2.5 collector?

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by godsider
                              Thanks for the advice . I wanna stay all motor but also thinking turbo Not sure. How do i convert an obx header to a 2.5 collector?
                              Just take it to an exhaust shop and have them cut the single pipe at the end off, then weld on a pipe that is 2.5" on the inside.


                              Originally posted by lordoja
                              im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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