well is 450lbs spring rate a high spring rate? those cheap ebay coils i use to have were extremely low...
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Lowering Springs
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Race springs are the stiffest regular lowering springs you can get, but notice that they're still softer than most full coilover setups. If you're damping the spring properly, even very stiff can be bearable.
The "I've done it and it rides fine" people are also the people that have never experienced a Koni or Bilstein.There are no black and white suspension answers!!!!!!!!!!!
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So you suggest getting race springs and deevergote suggest H/R springs with koni struts and shit................... i think i am just going to leave it alone for now cause i thought @ first lowering my car would be as simple as 1 2 3, then what i learned from you guys is that its fucking complicated and its needs to be done right for safety an shit. so therefore i am going to wait till i a get better job and way more $ before i lower my car. but any way thanks for all your guys help cause to be honest with you guys i would just bought some tanabe max lowering springs and just threw them on like a dip shit if i didnt know about this website soOriginally posted by mndude07 View PostRace springs are the stiffest regular lowering springs you can get, but notice that they're still softer than most full coilover setups. If you're damping the spring properly, even very stiff can be bearable.
The "I've done it and it rides fine" people are also the people that have never experienced a Koni or Bilstein.
HELLAFLUSH 4 Me Coming Soon In Spring 2012
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Race springs and the H&R springs deev was talking about are the same springs. They're called H&R race. There's also a Neuspeed Race. They're both the same, just different colors basically.Originally posted by jdmCB907 View PostSo you suggest getting race springs and deevergote suggest H/R springs with koni struts and shit................... i think i am just going to leave it alone for now cause i thought @ first lowering my car would be as simple as 1 2 3, then what i learned from you guys is that its fucking complicated and its needs to be done right for safety an shit. so therefore i am going to wait till i a get better job and way more $ before i lower my car. but any way thanks for all your guys help cause to be honest with you guys i would just bought some tanabe max lowering springs and just threw them on like a dip shit if i didnt know about this website so
If you use a spring that's that stiff, you should use koni yellows in my opinion.There are no black and white suspension answers!!!!!!!!!!!
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My H&R Sport springs were too low and stiff for KYB AGX.
Nobody is suggesting anything, other than shocks than can handle your choice of springs. Namely, Koni Yellows. They are the most affordable and versatile thing on the market. Bilstein makes amazing shocks as well, but they are not adjustable, and not cheap.
That's the right attitude though, jdmCB907. Most people think lowering a car is cheap and easy, because there are so many poor quality (and dangerous) parts available. You COULD lower your car for $50... but you'd seriously increase your risk of crashing. I would say the very least anyone should expect to spend when lowering their car, using new parts, would be about $650-$700. That's for quality springs (about $200), quality shocks (about $250... Koni STR.T is their low-end that shuold hold up pretty well), a camber kit (about $150 for Ingalls or SPC... never trust anything cheap, they break, and you will crash), and $60-$75 for an alignment. This is all necessary to ensure safe, reliable operation of your vehicle when lowered... and is the bare minimum.
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deev is EXACTLY rightOriginally posted by deevergote View PostWhy does everyone feel the need to follow my statements about safety with "I did it and it rides fine!"
Yes, the ride isn't that uncomfortable. Yes, it seems to handle well. BUT, as soon as those shocks completely blow out (and they will, VERY quickly), try slamming on the brakes. Try taking a corner at a high speed, or jerking the wheel to avoid an unexpected obstacle (like a pothole, or something that falls of the car in front of you, or a dog... or a child.) and watch in horror as you lose control. Because without a properly functioning shock to hold your tires on the ground, your wheels are going to bounce up and down. You will not stop. You will not turn. You will not avoid what you are trying to avoid.
From the comments made by a few members lately, that doesn't seem to matter. I guess if you cheap out on your suspension and modify it so it is unsafe, and you mow down a child chasing a ball into the street... that should be the fault of the parents of that child, for not teaching their kid to stay out of the street.
i did the ebay lowering springs with stock Monroe brand struts. (this was before I joined cb7tuner and was schooled properly)
now I just noticed that when I turn left my left front tire rubs on the fender.
now that I know better I will research the threads and do it properly and get the Koni's
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i thank deev for having this websiteOriginally posted by jdmCB907 View PostSo you suggest getting race springs and deevergote suggest H/R springs with koni struts and shit................... i think i am just going to leave it alone for now cause i thought @ first lowering my car would be as simple as 1 2 3, then what i learned from you guys is that its fucking complicated and its needs to be done right for safety an shit. so therefore i am going to wait till i a get better job and way more $ before i lower my car. but any way thanks for all your guys help cause to be honest with you guys i would just bought some tanabe max lowering springs and just threw them on like a dip shit if i didnt know about this website so
the previous owner of my cb lowered it for $25 by having the springs heated until it dropped. THAT WAS A SCARY RIDE until I did the dipshit ebay thing. That was an improvment but not enough
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come on cuz , its not that hard look get a good set up that you can afford . the point of above post are not to buy the cheapest parts out there, you may get the look but not the performance.Originally posted by jdmCB907 View PostSo you suggest getting race springs and deevergote suggest H/R springs with koni struts and shit................... i think i am just going to leave it alone for now cause i thought @ first lowering my car would be as simple as 1 2 3, then what i learned from you guys is that its fucking complicated and its needs to be done right for safety an shit. so therefore i am going to wait till i a get better job and way more $ before i lower my car. but any way thanks for all your guys help cause to be honest with you guys i would just bought some tanabe max lowering springs and just threw them on like a dip shit if i didnt know about this website so

A man that keeps looking back can't see whats in front of him.
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I don't know if anyone said already but you can get a set of Skunk2 shocks off ebay for $294.00 + S&H. Got those and some coilovers. Pretty good set up.Originally posted by sadkos View PostLowering your car on stock shocks is NO NO! you won't be "rolling" for long with that setup. There's a thread about lowering your car somewhere, please look for it.
I tried the whole lowering on stocks and got some good springs but the stock shocks werent holding up to good. S2's are great.
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you gotta pay to play. what about when youre "rollin" down the road and everyone is laughing because your car is bouncing all over the place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
They rise their wooden pints and they yoik and sing
And they fight and dance 'till the morning
Dont forget my MRT for my 1992 Honda Accord LX
Originally posted by deevergoteEverything in Japan is made with carbon fiber and used panties.
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Same with the heated springs. Ebay stuff is crap, but heated springs are REALLY dangerous. I'd say heating is even worse than cutting...


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