gunmetal paint chipped rims

[buzz11]

hey guys. I just bought some wheels off a guy on CL. But the wheels are painted Gunmetal with some minor paint chipping. I'm wondering how I can touch it up without actually painting the whole rim. The rims seem to be painted and clearcoated also. The only thing I can think of is getting a paint scratch remover pen and go over the chipped parts with light coats. Has anyone had this same problem?

[RagingAsian]

Dont half ass your wheels. if they have that many chips in it, get some aircraft paint stripper and strip them and paint them...

[buzz11]

I have MINOR paint chips. I know if it had alot of chips, i would repaint them. But in this case, they have only minor chips.

[matacb7]

pics????

[cuate01221]

pics????

Yeah this thread is worthless without pics. A minor paint chip to me may differ from your thought of a minor paint chip. Also if the paint is stripping it can't be any good. You will be 20x happier redoing them now, then having them look really ugly in 2 months.

The proper way to do this would be to use aircraft paint stripper, get ALL of the paint off. Then clean that really well with water and soap. Hit the metal with some 180grit sand paper and wash with wax and grease remover. Then throw a very light coat of etching primer on that. Then you can use any primer you want to(I recommend Rust-O-leum). Spray the entire rim with that evenly. About 3 coats should be enough. Then spray whatever color you want on top of the(2-3 coats or until primer is completely covered). Then clear coat(2-3 coats).

By doing this you will be very happy with the outcome of your new rims and they will last you that much longer. All that will probably cost you $40. That's a low price to pay to have some decent paint on those rims.

[Accrdwgnguy]

80 grit is way to rough for a repaint, you will have deep scratches in the finish if you just use 80.

320-400 would be ideal to clean up the surface before paint.

[cuate01221]

80 grit is way to rough for a repaint, you will have deep scratches in the finish if you just use 80.

320-400 would be ideal to clean up the surface before paint.

I meant to put 180grit. Sorry I'll fix it now. 180 grit should be enough for repaint. I have never gone up to 320-400 unless I am sanding building primer.

[Cb3vtec]

I meant to put 180grit. Sorry I'll fix it now. 180 grit should be enough for repaint. I have never gone up to 320-400 unless I am sanding building primer.

It really is to rough, you will see the sanding scratches when the primer and Paint has sunk. It is not the correct way. Before primer you will use 240 grit then you sand the Primer with 500 grit, Wash, Paint. DONE

[Accrdwgnguy]

What I have learned from working with Professional painters for years:

320 - 400 for single stage paints (This applies to rattle cans)

600 for BC/CC paints.

180 is to finish bodywork, before primer.

[cuate01221]

It really is to rough, you will see the sanding scratches when the primer and Paint has sunk. It is not the correct way. Before primer you will use 240 grit then you sand the Primer with 500 grit, Wash, Paint. DONE

I have always used 180grit to do body work and I never see scratches in the paint. That is the point of using building primer then wet sanding. But since he is probably not going to do that with his rims, he is better off going with a higher grit as you mentioned.

What I have learned from working with Professional painters for years:

320 - 400 for single stage paints (This applies to rattle cans)

600 for BC/CC paints.

180 is to finish bodywork, before primer.

Yeah that's what I have always gone by. 180grit on a DA before primer, 600dry if repairing anything in basecoat, and 1000-3000 grit for clear coat.

[AAPOQ]

No offense to anyone but 180 grit is way to coarse, it will scratch your surface too much/too deep. 400-600 would be good for starters, then I would move on to 800-1000 for primer cleanup.

[cuate01221]

No offense to anyone but 180 grit is way to coarse, it will scratch your surface too much/too deep. 400-600 would be good for starters, then I would move on to 800-1000 for primer cleanup.

If you throw primer on 600grit sand scratches it will not stick well at all. People polish their rims with 600grit. The highest I would go on bare metal is 320grit. You need scratches in the metal for the paint to grab onto. It doesn't matter if the scratches are seen in the primer since you are going to be sanding that flat anyway. The whole point of primer is to build up enough material so that your paint job will look even. I have been sanding with 180grit paper for 3 years now and I have not seen any scratches in any of my jobs.

I know this isn't the best example but I painted this whole car. Do you think the owner would have been happy if he saw scratches in the paint? He said I did such a great job, that he is bringing it back to do white racing stripes down the middle.(I am doing those now)





Here is another car I did. This thing was completely totaled when we got it, we had to replace most of the passenger side and I did the body work on the quarter panel and rocker panel.

[AAPOQ]

[QUOTE=cuate01221;2930224]If you throw primer on 600grit sand scratches it will not stick well at all. People polish their rims with 600grit. The highest I would go on bare metal is 320grit. You need scratches in the metal for the paint to grab onto. It doesn't matter if the scratches are seen in the primer since you are going to be sanding that flat anyway. The whole point of primer is to build up enough material so that your paint job will look even. I have been sanding with 180grit paper for 3 years now and I have not seen any scratches in any of my jobs.

I know this isn't the best example but I painted this whole car. Do you think the owner would have been happy if he saw scratches in the paint? He said I did such a great job, that he is bringing it back to do white racing stripes down the middle.(I am doing those now)


Your preference I guess, you said 320 ok, but if you read I said 400-600, not just 600. This isn't a pissing contest, I've been a painter 15 years and my preference is to work a little harder for a better finished product. Not saying your stuff doesn't look good, just my preference.

[cuate01221]

[QUOTE=AAPOQ;2930749]

If you throw primer on 600grit sand scratches it will not stick well at all. People polish their rims with 600grit. The highest I would go on bare metal is 320grit. You need scratches in the metal for the paint to grab onto. It doesn't matter if the scratches are seen in the primer since you are going to be sanding that flat anyway. The whole point of primer is to build up enough material so that your paint job will look even. I have been sanding with 180grit paper for 3 years now and I have not seen any scratches in any of my jobs.

I know this isn't the best example but I painted this whole car. Do you think the owner would have been happy if he saw scratches in the paint? He said I did such a great job, that he is bringing it back to do white racing stripes down the middle.(I am doing those now)


Your preference I guess, you said 320 ok, but if you read I said 400-600, not just 600. This isn't a pissing contest, I've been a painter 15 years and my preference is to work a little harder for a better finished product. Not saying your stuff doesn't look good, just my preference.

Yeah man. You have more experience than I do. I was just kinda a bit ticked that day and wasn't thinking right. For what he is doing 400-600 grit will definitely give a better finish since I am sure he will not be using filler primer. Hope the rims come out great man!

[Cb3vtec]

Well, you can use it to do body work but the final touch on the body work should be done with 240, reason for this is to use no more building primer then you need. Thick coates primer is not ideal when you are running a body shop. Also some primers from Spies Hecker and
PPG tend to sink in time and then the scratches surface. Especially if there is bondo......and then it is not a good idea to use 180 grit before primer...

I have always used 180grit to do body work and I never see scratches in the paint. That is the point of using building primer then wet sanding. But since he is probably not going to do that with his rims, he is better off going with a higher grit as you mentioned.



Yeah that's what I have always gone by. 180grit on a DA before primer, 600dry if repairing anything in basecoat, and 1000-3000 grit for clear coat.