So when I first lowered my car (on ebays) it was on the ground!!! Which is how I want it but all my struts blew so ok I got some skunk 2 two piece coilovers and oem equivalent struts and its not as low as I want at all would I be better off going a whole new suspension? Or getting adjustable struts keep in mind the coilovers were only 250 so I wouldnt wanna spend more than that on the struts considering mine are about 2 months old. Any help is appreciated!!!
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Both setups you've described so far are incredibly unsafe. I know you want to look cool, but is it really worth risking your life, the lives of anyone riding with you, or the lives of anyone in your path when you lose control?
If you want to be "on the ground", get a quality air-ride setup. That way, you can lay your car down literally on the ground when you are parked, and raise it to a safe driving height when you want to move.
Other options would be a decent set of full coilovers, such as Function and Form Autolife (which are known to go pretty low), or better yet, a set if Ground Control sleeves and Koni Yellow shocks.
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Deev, all of those options are over $250.
Dude, according to this post and your introduction post you've made it very clear that you're just trying to hop on the bandwagon and do every single modification that's popular with the Facebook crowd. They're all appearance-related. When your suspension setup becomes appearance focused and all concerns for functionality are tossed out the window because all the YOLO girls you're going for need your car to be on the ground, you're going to have problems. It's one of the main things that keeps you safe when driving your car. If you're going to modify it for the look that you seem to be going for, then there is no cheap option. Put a couple of the OBEY hats back on the shelf this week and save a little longer for some quality suspension.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
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$250 is your budget?
I suggest keeping the above mentioned advice in your head. I'm going to ASSume that you are building a trailer queen/show car that will not be driven on the street
FYI I have spent a couple of grand in suspension and I can "slam" my car if I choose to do so. Your budget is so small that the only thing you can really do is cut springs, or better yet omit the springs and ride on the bumpstops.Comment
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I was saying if i were to get new struts under that amount or if i should go with a whole new setup and how is it at all unsafe.Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
and im not putting air on my car i hate it i dailyed my car when it was two inches off the ground and it was fine.Last edited by Jarrett; 10-07-2014, 12:23 PM.Comment
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They are great aren't theyOriginally posted by domesticated View Post
You can't get a full set of struts that can handle that extreme of a drop for 250...unless you find a hell of a deal on some quality gear. When you compromise the dampers ability to do it's job efficiently, it will blow seals. It's just the nature of the beast.
I would suggest changing your setup to some F&F type IIs as I believe they will allow you to go as low as the geometry allows. Don't get a set of koni/gc for your application, they will be underutilized. Bilsteins would be great too, but all those are wayyy over $250.
How is it unsafe? Honestly, that would've been the first question to ask.
Lack of suspension travel.
Immediate loss of vehicle control and stability.
Slamming your car on 25 year old bearings, bushings and balljoints (if not replaced already)
Undue stress on said components make the car a time bomb
BUT! if you can fabricate/weld then there is hope! You can simply redesign the entire geometry to handle that style of drop and everything will be fine.Last edited by sonikaccord; 10-07-2014, 01:04 PM.Comment
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thank you for answering my initial question if I should do new struts and if they would be under that amount or new set up I appreciate thatOriginally posted by sonikaccord View PostThey are great aren't they
You can't get a full set of struts that can handle that extreme of a drop for 250...unless you find a hell of a deal on some quality gear. When you compromise the dampers ability to do it's job efficiently, it will blow seals. It's just the nature of the beast.
I would suggest changing your setup to some F&F type IIs as I believe they will allow you to go as low as the geometry allows. Don't get a set of koni/gc for your application, they will be underutilized. Bilsteins would be great too, but all those are wayyy over $250.
How is it unsafe? Honestly, that would've been the first question to ask.
Lack of suspension travel.
Immediate loss of vehicle control and stability.
Slamming your car on 25 year old bearings, bushings and balljoints (if not replaced already)
Undue stress on said components make the car a time bomb
BUT! if you can fabricate/weld then there is hope! You can simply redesign the entire geometry to handle that style of drop and everything will be fine.
and all that is getting replaced within a couple weeks my brother is a technician that specializes in suspension he is gonna help me get everything and its awesome because he also will be teaching me! But anyways thanks again guess I will start saving f&fs thats what I wanted from the get go but these skunk 2's were a christmas gift
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why didnt you just ask him in the first place, he'd know more than people on here. look for some short stroke struts and run 13" wheels lol youll be in the weeds then.Originally posted by cb7James View Postthank you for answering my initial question if I should do new struts and if they would be under that amount or new set up I appreciate that and all that is getting replaced within a couple weeks my brother is a technician that specializes in suspension he is gonna help me get everything and its awesome because he also will be teaching me! But anyways thanks again guess I will start saving f&fs thats what I wanted from the get go but these skunk 2's were a christmas gift
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In an attempt to make this a useful thread, why do people say to use FF IIs over the Type I is better for slamming "because they're stiffer" when they have the same spring rate up front and 30% more rate in the back? The back is never really an issue with the 6k springs and the front had the high roll rate and the oil pan lol.Comment
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I was just curious on others opinionsComment
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We're a bunch of cranky old men here. You come in asking how to follow an unsafe hipster fad for as cheap as possible, you're probably not going to get the feedback you want.Comment
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Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
OP,
F&F type 1s, Ingalls camber kit front, SPC or Ingalls rear arms.
Or, Ground Control springs, Koni yellow struts, Ingalls camber kit front, SPC or Ingalls rear arms.
Wheels & tires are a totally different story. The above two build lists are the two of the most common for slamming a CB.
Until you are ready to part with a bit more than a grand you are not ready to do it properly. Method 1 is the cheapest (F&F type 1s).
Search on peoples set ups you like and see what they are using. But be warned, those guys typically roll with deep pockets.
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You need struts that are valved to handle the drop and spring rate. Stock struts, stock replacement struts, or cheap aftermarket junk will NOT be safe.
If your brother is a suspension technician, he should be able to explain this to you. If he is unable to, or if he disagrees with me, then he should consider a new career.
If you want to be low, I gave you the 3 best options in my first reply. If those are too pricey for you... get out of the car modding game. That's the cheapest you're going to get, and the CB7 is one of the cheapest cars you can modify.
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They are "32 way adjustable." It makes people feel like they can really stiffen up the ride and you know a harsh ride means the car must handle better than stockOriginally posted by domesticated View Post
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