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1400 Watts AMP

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    1400 Watts AMP

    hey guy's i just bought a 1400 watt Crunch amp when i got the wiring kit the attendant told me that if the lights on my car go dim i have to buy a CAP if not is going to short the alternator can i just buy a higher amp alt or i need to buy that CAP THANKS for you're help

    #2
    The attendant wanted to make more money off you. You don't need a cap. If your lights start to dim, preform the "big 3" and you will be fine. Most of the time you just need to upgrade your grounds under the hood and you will be fine.

    (just search "big 3 " on this forum and you will get detailed instructions on how to do it) and 4 gage works fine no need for 0 gage...

    In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.

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      #3
      0 Gauge Stinger wire is beast though honestly, What subs you hooking it too, my buddy has the same amp but had a problem with it overheating for a while.

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        #4
        Originally posted by sugar View Post
        \i just bought a 1400 watt Crunch amp \
        No you didn't.. 8awg will probably be fine for that amp since it does nothing close to that... Easy way to tell is add up the fuses on the amp itself and multiply by 12... That would be the output at 100% efficiency and 100% output .... If you don't have 116 amps of fuses on there or about 150 to 200 amps if you take in efficiency the you do not have 1400 watts
        Last edited by ChIoVnIdCa; 02-14-2010, 11:08 PM.

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          #5
          Don't bother with caps, period.

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            #6
            Originally posted by True-BlueCB7 View Post
            Don't bother with caps, period.
            oh my gawd people are listening on the forum!!!! cheers mates shots on me!

            x2 on the fusing not many of us have high power amps (1000 rms+) and many get away with the big 3 and a nice batt.

            i cant wait to get my cb running again im gonna start a build for everyone to fallow and explain the reasons for doing what i am doing. there are a few others that have builds goin on right now and one im fallowing closing is sonkis build. i think he may have a better highs and mids setup if he can find a great place for his horns.

            if u want pics and details on doin a big 3 PM me and i can take some pics.
            Members Ride sold...
            I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

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              #7
              Thanks guys im going to pause that project i got timming belt and brakes to do but i wil keep update and pics. Oh! i ve got two 10 Klicker subs for that AMP.

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                #8
                Originally posted by loud92CB7 View Post
                oh my gawd people are listening on the forum!!!! cheers mates shots on me!

                x2 on the fusing not many of us have high power amps (1000 rms+) and many get away with the big 3 and a nice batt.

                i cant wait to get my cb running again im gonna start a build for everyone to fallow and explain the reasons for doing what i am doing. there are a few others that have builds goin on right now and one im fallowing closing is sonkis build. i think he may have a better highs and mids setup if he can find a great place for his horns.

                if u want pics and details on doin a big 3 PM me and i can take some pics.
                I'm a basshead, I just don't show it as often. (look at my MR thread on page 50)

                Like he said, the big three and a nice battery should do the trick. If that doesn't help, look on a forum called SMD (Steve Meade Designs) and look around for some tips and such.

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                  #9
                  Caps=a waste of time.

                  Start with the Big 3 upgrade (I use 0 gauge monster, you might be able to get away with 4 gauge stuff though, so long as you don't do something like use a wal-mart brand which is the equivalent of about 8 gauge).

                  Run 4 gauge or better to your amp (you can maybe get away with 8 gauge, but it'll waste some power due to resistance, and if it runs a slightly lower voltage, your amp will heat up. I use 4 gauge on even my 300 watt amp, it's just plain better stuff).

                  If your lights do start to dim, don't buy a cap. Either upgrade your battery, or add a second one, your choice.

                  If your lights continue to dim with the upgraded or added battery, that means you're using too much power and adding more batteries or caps will NOT help the problem. You'll have to upgrade your alternator at that point.

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                    #10
                    im running 0 guage and a 3,000 watt amp to my 12's and a 300 watt alpine v12 amp to my highs and mids in my 3rd gen lude and my lights dam near turn off when the bass hits hard. the lude is down ,but i'm planning a bit of an upgrade on my eletrical system

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by preludejim View Post
                      im running 0 guage and a 3,000 watt amp to my 12's and a 300 watt alpine v12 amp to my highs and mids in my 3rd gen lude and my lights dam near turn off when the bass hits hard. the lude is down ,but i'm planning a bit of an upgrade on my eletrical system
                      really 3000 watts man what amp is that who is it made by?
                      Members Ride sold...
                      I'm back...... with a coupe. oh boy here we go.

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                        #12
                        it's a UL3000 made by ultra linear it is rated at 2700 rms but it's 1/4 ohm stable it beats the crap out of any thing that i put on it.

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                          #13
                          Running 2 dual 1 ohm subs to it?

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                            #14
                            dual voice coil subs 1/2 ohm with the gain 1/2 way up. this thing is a monster .when i bought it i told my buddy that owns a car audio shop that i wanted more power than i will ever need. so he ordered this amp for me ,and i got it at his cost ($460).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              So your overall resistance is 1/2 ohm? If you're pushing 3000 watts at that power when it can't push that at 1/4 ohm it might fry your amp. Or the lights dimming can too (running the lower voltage to your amp means it draws a higher amperage to put out the same power, resulting in more heat, and risking a meltdown of the amp). But I'm assuming you knew how to check the outputs with a DMM and figure out the right gain settings and everything.

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