My new Accord and plans to make HUGE power

[12inch_Pianist]

Greetings CB7Tuner.com,

Id like to introduce myself and my recently aquired accord.
I am a self taught engineer (some people say Im like an up and coming Smokey Yunik! lol), Ive been involved in building a few race cars and street cars over the years. With each car I build I am constantly trying new things and trying to push the boundaries with science and auto-technology.
My last big build was a 2nd gen Miata which I built up into an extreme street car with a big turbo, fully built, and a couple secret weapons that made it nasty fast. Since then Ive started playing with Hondas and already have made a splash with some of my innovative ideas.

But anyway, I just recently aquired a 92 accord seen here:










Just a little teaser for now.
I have some plans to built it to rev to 11k rpm at very high boost pressure using compoud compressors.
Stay tuned

[zmos86]

Clean car. Welcome to the forum. Note to self: Read forum sub categories b4 posting

[Jarrett]

And what might some of these innovative ideas be?

[crazymikey]

If you've built that car to the way it currently looks, I see hope, rather than a BS post which I think this could end up being.

[zmos86]

^^^Probably Right^^^

[F20A CB7]

welcome to the forums, youll be quite happy with the hp mods your f22a will make.



how much hp was the miata?

[12inch_Pianist]

So Ill start by laying out my plans for the bottom end. Its nothing too wild compared to what Ive done in the past, but I have some plans for the head that seriously blow your minds, but Ill come back to that when I have time.

To begin, Ill be heavily modifying the proportions of the bottom end.
Crank:
De-stroked 95mm F22 crank by turning down rod journals by 6mm, lightened, bull-nosed, and knife edged for improved windage. Oil galleyed drilled out and chamfered for high RPM fuel delivery.
Block:
20mm deck plate (making 239.5mm deck height), welded. New sleeved pressed in. Modified oil and coolant passages and possibly custom billet girdle for strength and oiling.
Rods:
Custom 158mm aluminum rods
Pistons:
"8.0:1" forged Wiseco pistons, creating an actual static CR of just over 7.0:1
Other:
Custom, balance shafts to perfectly compensate for adjusted weight of rotating assembly.
Oil pump, heavily ported and shimmed for higher pressure. Or dry sump system.

Should put me at ~2150cc displacement at stock bore. I may end up going for larger bore if there is enough room and it wont compromise the blocks strength. It will be significantly stronger due to being made closed deck with the deck plate and If I do decide to build the billet girdle it will eliminate any flex in the block further improving its strength.

Stay tuned for plans for the head, and then prepare to have your mind blown by the induction system and transmission.

how much hp was the miata?

The Miata put out just under 550hp, but made an incredible 640 ft/lbs of torque due to the advanced nitrous oxide water injection system. It could have made quiet a bit more power but it was limited by the turbo.
Ill post of the dyno chart later. I will admit that it was on a non-load holding dynojet, so the numbers are probably a bit optimistic for wheel horsepower, but theyre probably pretty close to brake horsepower.
Nobody seems to argue with the dynojet optimism nowadays anyway, but Im just being humble.

And what might some of these innovative ideas be?

In good time.
Ill give you a few hints. They involve a large array of topics such as compound sequential turbocharging, manual torque converter hybrid transmission modifications, and chemical interccoling alternatives.

If you've built that car to the way it currently looks, I see hope, rather than a BS post which I think this could end up being.

I assumre you, there is no BS here my friend.
As for the car, Im afraid that I bought it in its current condition due to it having a decent body and the engine/drivetrain that I want to use. Im not really interested in what it looks like. By the time Im "done" with it, it will probably be pretty ugly from radical racing modifications.
Its function over form with me 110%.

[zmanwit90accord]

In good time.
Ill give you a few hints. They involve a large array of topics such as compound sequential turbocharging, manual torque converter hybrid transmission modifications, and chemical interccoling alternatives.

You sound like what I want to become on day. I hope your mysterious ways come to light soon as I want to learn all those things you just mentioned.

[LadyG]

due to the advanced nitrous oxide water injection system.
They involve a large array of topics such as compound sequential turbocharging

Lolwut?

[C91BLX7]

All these big words. But makes no sence.

Not sure why you want to do half these things they really have no point other than being expensive and redundant..

[C91BLX7]

Also will you be using a turboencabulator?

[12inch_Pianist]

Lolwut?

The Miata had a pre-turbo water injection system that was injecting water with a linear progression with boost pressure, peaking at ~420cc/min. This was coupled with 3 stages of dry nitrous oxide which added power and combined with the water to dramatically reduce intake air temps. This was caused by the phase change due to the volatility of the water and nitrous as it encountered the heat of combustion.

I originally ran a more traditional front mount A/A intercooler with direct port water injection but found it to be too limited for my goals. I was getting detonation at low RPM and was having to pull excessive timing, which was very counter productive. I ended up adding a 3rd stage of nitrous at high RPM instead of the direct port water injection and opted for non-intercooled with a large volume of pre-turbo water injection.

As promised, here is my best dyno pull with the Miata:



As for the compound sequential turbocharger setup, you will see in due time.
Im looking forward to proving that there is a reason to run more than 2 turbos on one engine.

All these big words. But makes no sence.

Not sure why you want to do half these things they really have no point other than being expensive and redundant..

Im not the best at explaining things, but it all makes sense up here! lol
Like I said, I have a lot of interest in pushing the limits of engineering. Sure I could acomplish a lot on the cheap, but I want to accomplish more than that and its not like Im going to be dropping the car off at a shop to do this. I have a pretty complete machine shop and plan on fabricating everything I can in house. The modifications and fabrication that you could never image doing are daily humdrum activities to me.

P.S. I have no idea what a "Turboencabulator" is, but I googled it and it looks like its a domestic automatic transmission or something, so Im not sure what youre talking about.

[12inch_Pianist]

Alright, moving on to the next part of my plan. The cylinder head.

Firstly, there are issues with cylinder head design that become apparent when spraying exceptionally big shots of nitrous, the size and shape of the exhaust ports/valves. The problem is that the amount of exhaust gasses created by nitrous and fuel combusting is greater than air and fuel combusting, hence the need for more exhaust flow. This means larger primary tubes on the header, larger ports, larger valves, and more cam lift/duration.

For this reason I plan on doing extensive porting and modification of the exhaust ports and almost nothing to the intake ports (other than cleaning up casting marks). I will open up the roof as far as I can go before I break into water jackets or into the rocker cavity. In this way I will make a larger more vertical port that will flow well and aim the header upward making more room (Ill touch on that later).
I know a picture is worth a thousand words, please excuse the rough drawing and the camera phone photograph (Im not much of a photographer lol):


As I mentioned earlier, I will desire an unusual camshaft profile to support large amount of nitrous and boost. In the past I have designed my own profiles and had them ground with hit and miss success.
Ill likely try to find a cam grinder experienced with F series and see what they suggest when I explain the details of this setup instead of trying many profiles until I get the results I want.

But anyway, the second innovative modification Im planning is a kind of "holy grail" coolant re-route utilized by legitimate race cars. Rally and endurance racers understand the necessity of equal coolant flwo through the block and head. It minimizes the possibility of particular cylinders running hot and the formation of "hot spots" from stagnant coolant flow.
My plan is to eliminate the single coolant passage at the end of the block and instead opt to extract the coolant for 4 point across the exhaust side of the head.Ill have to cut a head up to figure out my porting anyway, so while I do so Ill plan out how Im going to drill into the water passages from the outside.
My tentative plan is to do this underneath or between the ports with the coolant flowing into a manifold under the exhaust manifold.
Heres a picture to clarify:


Thats all for now. Stay tuned.
I have 3 main ideas for the induction system, each with its own pros and cons. I would combine them but Im not sure how much room Im going to have without cutting into the firewall or remote mounting turbochargers.

[crazymikey]

What happens when you have to refuckulate the carbinator?

[12inch_Pianist]

What happens when you have to refuckulate the carbinator?

I see.
Im not sure exactly what issue you have with me or my ideas, but I dont really appreciate posts like this. If you dont like something I said or disagree with me, Id like you to say so in a clear and articulate manner. Ill be happy to have a proper discussion with you, but Im not interested in making asinine jokes or arguing with someone who doesnt seem to have anything worth while to contribute.