Yeah so I just got home from getting my car tuned w/ Chrome gold. I got to say I'm pretty impressed w/ all the features you can edit. I was initially going to get a p28 w/ the s300 but glad I went the other route. I got a p28 chipped, added 2step, changed the rev limit, and definitely pulls a lot harder than before. There's a lot more features you can do to, but I left my vtec the same I was going to lower it but left it at 5000. Can't wait to feel the power when I got the head and block built
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
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4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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First Tune!!
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I had a buddy of mine tune it for me, but he's been tuning for over ten years so he's not bad and I'm happy w/ the results. Originally my vtec kicked in at 5200, but I have a H22a1. Heres the mods to my car:
Engine:
Mfactory 4.64 final drive
Skunk2 68mm Throttle body & Intake Manifold
Some Japanese fuel pressure regulator(not sure of the brand)
Hytech Replica headers
AEM CAI
NGK spark plugs & wires
Clutchmasters stage 2 clutch & lightened flywheel
Suspension:
ST front & rear sway bars
Front & rear strut bars
Rear lower control arms & rear upper control arms
Rear tie bar
Tein high tech springs
Skunk2 sport shocks
Interior:
Momo shift nob
Jenson DVD deck
Pioneer 6x9s
MTX 4 channel amp & Alpine mono d amp
12' kicker L7
Power capacitor
Next upgrades:
NRG quick release kit & steering wheel
Racing seats(haven't decided which brand yet)
Then saving up for like 2-3 years to do some major upgrades. All new internals for both the head & block
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Post you dyno sheet...I like to see your dynograph and magic numbers?Checkout my MR: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=165984
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I have a 2.5'' exhaust. Got it done when I was upgrading the suspension, but as for the Hytech Replica's the reason I chose those was because I wanted a header that would make a decent amount of power without having to delete my A/C cause living in Arizona during the summer is hot as hell. When I get another car I'll most likely end up swapping those ones out for a bisi header. For the dyno they didn't have any paper LoL, but I'll go back over there this weekend to check out what kind of numbers this set up makes.
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Getting a real HyTech would have been better. More expensive, but it'd help keep the quality parts makers involved in producing parts for our cars. Once the demand for the authentic stuff dries up, then nobody will engineer new parts. The knockoff makers will eventually quit, and we'll be left with nothing but cheap "ebay" crap and super-expensive one-off parts.
BUT, I do understand your reasoning.
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