issues with tie rod

[puertorico45]

i was trying change the cv axles on my car the other day on the driver side and my tie rod would not come out. I put pressure, i used a pry bar and i just dont know how to get it out. Can someone give some advice?

[HondaTuner808]

Well, Im not sure what your problem is, but lets see if I can help. I've swapped my transmission out twice in the last month, so, ya.

1st, cut the cotter pin.

2nd, Remove the nut from the tie rod bolt. If the bolt spins, use a jack to apply pressure to the bottom of the arm. (When putting the castle-nut back on, this is a necessary step)

Lastly, if the arm simply won't come out, your gonna need to either use a rubber mallet to knock it out (not recommended) or goto Autozone and buy a Pitman Arm Puller (I believe thats what its called). It looks like a big "U" with feet on the top and a large bolt bored through the center. It will have 3/8" square hole in the top so the bolt can be driven with a socket wrench. Basically, this tool forces the bolt out of its hole.

Let me know if this helps.

[puertorico45]

ok thanks ill try that today

[benji]

You don't have to pull the tie rods off to get the CVs off. Undo everything else, and you will have enough play to pull the whole hub out far enough to clear the axel.

[HondaTuner808]

That maybe true, but I will say that removing them definitely makes things easier. And once you master the procedure, its painless.

[The G-Man]

I have never had luck getting the shafts out just by removing the tie rod end. I always pop the knuckle out of the lower control arm.

[HondaTuner808]

I thought that was obvious. Sorry for assuming.

[NAiL05]

1. You dont need to cut the tie rod cotter pin. A set of pliers is all you need to pull them out.

2. Tie rod removal is not necessary to pull out the axle but it kinda makes it easier. I used a center punch and hammer that works but most of the time it kinda slides out. Never take a hammer directlyto the threads you will mushroom out the end.

3. Usually I just pull the axle nut and just pull that upper bj off and that swings the arm out allowing clearance to pull out the axle.

I used to do it the LBJ style but that took longer.

[HondaTuner808]

1. Cotter pins are not ment to be reused, and pliers can't grab the head when its resting inside the castle nut, so why not just cut it and save time, and effort?

2. The Arm puller is ideal. It also works for the Lower Ball Joint. Theres a reason they make specialty tools. Or you can use a Rubber Mallet, which will not distort the metal, but will not work on the LBJ.

3. I can do the Lower Ball Joint method in about 10 minutes to tear it all down and get the axle out, and about 15 to put it back together. And thats with a smoke break in the middle. When you have the know how, and tools, removing the LBJ is really painless. Plus theres no potential for damaging the LBJ mount if the hub assembly falls away from the vehicle, though leaving the tie-rod connected would help negate this minor potential for a problem.

4. The Lower Spring/Dampener mount must be removed too (Im using DSS Axles, so the ends maybe bigger than stock, idk).

5. When removing the CV, the portion in the Hub should slide (If you un-staked the Nut and removed it) and the transmission side will need slight prying with something appropriate to pop the snap-rings out.

6. When installing the CVs, wipe down the ends to remove any debris that may have accumulated, especially on the transmission side.

6. When you put the suspension all back together, use an anti-seizing lubricant. Theres alot of them out there, find whats best for your application. It will make taking the suspension back apart in a few years much easier.

7. Replace worn bushings while your down there. Energy suspension makes polyurethane bushing kits for about $150 for the whole car, or just order an "OEM Kit" from the dealership. Your sway-bar probably needs it the most; mine did.


***Note:
If one of your suspension bolts is seized, which you most likely WILL NOT encounter in your current endevour, you will need to soak it in penetrating oil, use a breaker bar, or a propane torch to heat the area.

[NAiL05]

Needle nose pliers are your best friend. Really ist not that hard to pull them out. Flatten the ends/tap a little/pull with needle nose. I have been doing that for ages and its worked. And reusing cotter pins is common sense. Your not supposed to thats why the metal is not so strong.

[HondaTuner808]

Needle nose pliers are your best friend. Really ist not that hard to pull them out. Flatten the ends/tap a little/pull with needle nose. I have been doing that for ages and its worked. And reusing cotter pins is common sense. Your not supposed to thats why the metal is not so strong.

Right on man. I just find it quicker/easier to snip it and push the pin out, since I'm replacing it anyway. And reusing cotter pins is a common mistake. (Unless they're the spring type)