Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

driver side wheel stuff

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    driver side wheel stuff

    Hey guys, on a scale of 1 to 10, (10 being the hardest) how hard would you rate changing the drivers side CV axle shaft (I think that's what its called) and upper control arm? And are there any special tools I would need to do this?

    Also, what are your opinions on http://www.tasauto.com ? I was thinking of getting the parts from there.

    Thanks in advance

    #2
    Axel is moderate. Upper control arm very easy. For the UCA you need sockets and a hammer.

    1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
    1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
    2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
    2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
    2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
    2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






    Comment


      #3
      UCA is dirt simple. However, you'll want to get a proper alignment afterward. Always get an alignment after messing with any suspension components.


      As for the axle... the driver's side is the easier of the two, as you can do it without draining the fluid. You'll need a 36mm socket, an impact gun or VERY long breaker bar, a ball joint seperator (a pitman arm puller is best... but can damage the bolt... the fork type one will almost always ruin your boot), and a flathead screwdriver that you don't mind breaking (craftsman... take it back, get a new one). With the right tools, it's a simple job. The axle nut and ball joint are the only things that can give you trouble, really.






      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by deevergote
        UCA is dirt simple. However, you'll want to get a proper alignment afterward. Always get an alignment after messing with any suspension components.

        Not really on our cars the only reason you would need an alignment is if you mess with the tierods. Pretty much everything else is a set deal.

        Axle's are ok if you have the right tools, You need 36mm for axle nut, 17 for the LBJ. Then taking them out can be a trouble, my LBJ came out real easy pry up on the knuckle and hit it with a hammer a few times, should pop out. then pull the axle splines out of the hub/knuckle then go under the car and pry out the axles from the trans, should come out pretty easily.

        Upper control arms are real easy as said. Two 17 or 18MM (don't remember) up top, the only difficult thing is the one under the fuse box. then take the protector off, two 10MM's then pull the cotter pin out and I forget what size it is. Then hit it with a hammer a few times and it should pop out.

        I just did this recently no alignment, car drives and stops as straight as ever.
        wat?

        Comment


          #5
          ok, thanks for the info. I had a mechanic change the axle, and I'm going to get a UCA and do it myself, I think.

          what do you guys think about http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Brows...z=10&h=175&p=1 ?

          the part is #6351462, the r/h UCA from tasline

          Comment

          Working...
          X