When adjusting valve lash...what do I need?

[Fake Thug]

right. The very top of the valve stem(spring) and bottom of the lifter/rocker arm is where you stick the feeler gauge. .010 is the size feeler you need for intake side. You stick the gauge inbetween and pullout. There should a slight drag. slight resistance. If not use a 10mm wrench and flat tip screwdriver to hold the adjuster in place while you loosen the nut. screw the adjuster right to tighten the valve to lifter clearence or left to loosen. Pick up a haynes manual if you dont have one. It pictures and shit that make this 10 times easier.

[Losiracer2]

right. The very top of the spring and bottom of the lifter/rocker arm is where you stick the feeler gauge. .010 is the size feeler you need for intake side. You stick the gauge inbetween and pullout. There should a slight drag. slight resistance. If not use a 10mm wrench and flat tip screwdriver to hold the adjuster in place while you loosen the nut. screw adjuster right to tighten the valve to lifter clearence ot left to loosen. Pick up a haynes manual if you dont have one. It pictures and shit that make this 10 times easier.

yeah i was trying to look at the DIY for adj. engine valves but it just shows the guy holding a wrench and a flathead I didn't now which one is suppose to loosen. I've got a Chilton's but it sucks ballz. So the nut is like a locknut for the adjustment flat head correct? So i need to loosen the nut before I can adjust the clearance? Its just freaking on there right now.

[Fake Thug]

so do you loosen it by twisting the threaded part w/ a flat head while holding the 10mm wrench on the nut, or is the nut supposed to loosen while you hold the threaded part?

Twist the threaded part with a flathead while holding the nut witha wrench. After you get em where you want em, hold the threaded part and tighten the nut. Recheck your clearence

[accorddrifter]

if they clearance is that tight then be positive the piston is at TDC because if it off at all the cam could be pressing the rocker into the valve making the the space tight and the adjustment wrong. if its at TDC after you loosen the nut you will need to back the adjustment screw out a little to allow the feeler to slip in then tighten it back to the desired drag. the drag is from the pressure between the adjustment screw and the valve stem

[Losiracer2]

if they clearance is that tight then be positive the piston is at TDC because if it off at all the cam could be pressing the rocker into the valve making the the space tight and the adjustment wrong. if its at TDC after you loosen the nut you will need to back the adjustment screw out a little to allow the feeler to slip in then tighten it back to the desired drag. the drag is from the pressure between the adjustment screw and the valve stem

so in my chilton's manual, it says slight drag? so how much is "slight" drag exactly? like enough so it can move between the spring and top part freely or should I screw the threaded part onto the feeler guage? I checked the TDC marks, through that flywheel opening for cyl 1 as well and they line up, so thats taken car of at least for that cylinder.

[Losiracer2]

and also, when I finish w/ 1, is the order 1-3-4-2? so I move to the Cyl 3 in/ex. valves? and then 4 and then 2? but that UP mark.....where is it supposed to go for each of those cylinders?

[accorddrifter]

when i did the valves on my car i tighten them so when you try and move the feeler it pulls a little bit but no so much that it feels like your scraping the metal on the feeler. its hard to describe

edit; for 1 the mark is up for 3 the up mark is pointing to the exhaust side. for 4 the up is pointing down, for 2 up is pointing the intake side. to get this rotate the crank 180 degrees counter clock wise each time

[Losiracer2]

when i did the valves on my car i tighten them so when you try and move the feeler it pulls a little bit but no so much that it feels like your scraping the metal on the feeler. its hard to describe

okay, i'll try that. all I have to say is the intake valves are a BITCH to do, with this long ass feeler gauge i bought from checker auto parts. I wish I had the small one the guy used in the DIY. That would've made it a lot easier.

[accorddrifter]

good luck i know the first time i did this it took me awhile to get every thing right

[Losiracer2]

wow....that took WAY longer than I thought. And I don't know if I did everything correctly. It sounded a little bit louder than before to tell you the truth. And I only had to adjust like 4 out of the 16 valves, since all the others were in spec. But at least I did it. It seems to drive a little better, just at idle its kinda nosiy. Idk, i hope i didn't screw up anything.

[owequitit]

wow....that took WAY longer than I thought. And I don't know if I did everything correctly. It sounded a little bit louder than before to tell you the truth. And I only had to adjust like 4 out of the 16 valves, since all the others were in spec. But at least I did it. It seems to drive a little better, just at idle its kinda nosiy. Idk, i hope i didn't screw up anything.

If it is a little noisier that is OK. It will take a little while for the followers to wear in.

[9tAkord]

Congrats on your first valve lash adjustment. Noise is OK. Let it settle for at least 200 miles. I've been advised by a honda technician that it is better to adjust it on the looser side...

[Losiracer2]

heh, well I almost did everything correct. I popped my hood today after I got back from school and there was OIL everywhere. Stupid valve cover gasket got kinked on the timing belt side and wasn't in its tract when I put it in apparently, it was actually inside the valve cover bouncing off the rocker arms and stuff probably. But damn, it made a mess.

[whitecoupe91]

So when your adjusting each cylinder you do all 4 valves for that cylinder or ? I get how everything else is done except this, please help lol!!!

[js593]

So when your adjusting each cylinder you do all 4 valves for that cylinder or ? I get how everything else is done except this, please help lol!!!

Yes.