Ebay Camber Kit

[myblk92ex]

I bought a camber kit for the front and rear of my car because I recently lowered my CB. Now when I drive and hit hard bumps I have A clunking sound because the upper control arm is hitting the body. Has anyone else had this problem? I think I am just going to take them off and realign the car until I get the good kit off of TAS Auto.

[sdhardcoregamer]

i dont know. i recently lowered mine as well and got a new wheel set up. took it in and got a front end alignment, but the rear looks like it has a neg camber and looks like the front of the rear tires have the toe pointing in. i was thinking about getting a camber kit. i'd love to here the replys on this subject. sorry i dont have much to add but im in the same boat. your not alone :P

[f22a legend]

I bought a camber kit for the front and rear of my car because I recently lowered my CB. Now when I drive and hit hard bumps I have A clunking sound because the upper control arm is hitting the body. Has anyone else had this problem? I think I am just going to take them off and realign the car until I get the good kit off of TAS Auto.

Yes I have, when putting in camber kit especially is the CB7's some body alterations have to be made, when I had mine installed I had to shave some of the inside fender off because mine was hitting as well, get that done and your good to go. Good luck.

[AstroVannin]

Ok... Ive never used the camber kit... but it you threadlocked everything it look like it would be OK.

Ive also used the eGay springs before (although it was on a Tercel) andd thought they were OK.

[gloryaccordy]

That is just the nature of the anchor bolt kit. Even an Ingalls type kit will bang with the same setup. Best bet would be to get an SPC balljoint type camber kit.

(Really though you should be good without a camber kit. Just get a good alignment with zero toe, and rotate your tires with every other oil change.)

[ECalvo31]

I have the eBay camber kits. My front and rear made noise. Well, I fixed the rear, but now it's just the front. Somehow I can't fix it. Everytime I hit a bump it makes the biggest noise. My mechanic told me that everythime that happens I'm knocking my alignment off. I really would like some help on this too. I can't keep paying for alignments. They are expensive.

[sideswipe]

I have coilovers and the Progress camber kit on mine and I've never had the problem you guys are talking about unless I hit a massive hole and the only time that has happened is on an unfamiliar road at nighttime. I guess it just depends on how low you took your ride, mine has about 3/4" - 1" of wheel gap.

[myblk92ex]

I have the eBay camber kits. My front and rear made noise. Well, I fixed the rear, but now it's just the front. Somehow I can't fix it. Everytime I hit a bump it makes the biggest noise. My mechanic told me that everythime that happens I'm knocking my alignment off. I really would like some help on this too. I can't keep paying for alignments. They are expensive.

What is hitting is the upper control arm is making contact with the strut tower because with the kit on, it pushes out the control arm. I am going to get the kit off of tas auto that actually moves the upper ball joint out instead of the control arm. I think that will work better.

[myblk92ex]

That is just the nature of the anchor bolt kit. Even an Ingalls type kit will bang with the same setup. Best bet would be to get an SPC balljoint type camber kit.

(Really though you should be good without a camber kit. Just get a good alignment with zero toe, and rotate your tires with every other oil change.)

yeah, I only lowered it like 2 inches. I am looking into getting the kit off of tas auto. When I did my alignment I had negative camber in the front, the back wasn't that bad. My tires are brand new and just from driving about 1000 miles since lowering, the inside of the tires are starting to wear more than the outside. So I'd like to correct the camber as to not ruin 600$ tires.

[benjerman112]

the place i had my kit put in must have done them before cause they grinded the tips of the c-arm down.

[ECalvo31]

What is hitting is the upper control arm is making contact with the strut tower because with the kit on, it pushes out the control arm. I am going to get the kit off of tas auto that actually moves the upper ball joint out instead of the control arm. I think that will work better.

Yeah, I knew exactly what it was hitting. I just know what I can do. But I'm going to check out that site. I guess I'm going to have to order some different ones. Thanks bro.

[ECalvo31]

I have coilovers and the Progress camber kit on mine and I've never had the problem you guys are talking about unless I hit a massive hole and the only time that has happened is on an unfamiliar road at nighttime. I guess it just depends on how low you took your ride, mine has about 3/4" - 1" of wheel gap.

Yeah my car is dropped low. It is just low enough to hit stuff with my bumper. I have it just right. Not to low though.

[skilzz]

That is just the nature of the anchor bolt kit. Even an Ingalls type kit will bang with the same setup. Best bet would be to get an SPC balljoint type camber kit.

(Really though you should be good without a camber kit. Just get a good alignment with zero toe, and rotate your tires with every other oil change.)

zerooo toeeee FTMFW! i always wondered y i didnt get shitty tire wear on my first teg which had alot a camber but dead straight wheels. it waseven pulling to one side slightly and still nothing. i owned the car for a year and never change tires (30 miles per day 5 days per week with occational burnouts)

[sdhardcoregamer]

i got an alignment myself. the rear still looks like it has a little toe. maybe a little camber too but a little wont hurt right

[RVaillant]

I dont know the specifics on the suspension geometry on a cb7,
but added negative camber on a streetcar isnt a great idea.

you wont generate enough lateral g force (often enough) to use the benifets of that geometry.

you'll get premature tire wear, and every bump will place load on the car in such a way that it will have a "pull-apart" type force on whole assembly, which I cant imagine being good for any joints or bearings in the rotating assembly.

are you going to be racing this car or just using it as a daily driver?