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Rough idle, weak sounding engine problem...

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    #1

    Rough idle, weak sounding engine problem...

    I'm begining to think I bought a lemon...

    I change the sparks from OEMs to NGK G-powers. Thing is when I removed the sparks hoards and hoards of oil saturated the plugs and it poured out of the socket wrench when i pulled it out of the tubes where they go...

    I fire up the car with the new sparks, fails the first time, second time it goes fine, third time etc fine. I drive it around the block a little, rev the engine upto 3,000 rpm, all sounds ok except when its idling.. it sounds so weak and the steering wheel wobbles pretty hard.

    Another note when I fired it up for the first time after spark changes white smoke billowed out the tail pipe, haha... but that only lasted for 3 seconds now it just has this extremely faint 'pops' of white smoke thats only visible if you look directly at the exhaust end. I'm figuring oil got into the compression chambers.. ehhh... I didnt tighten the spark plugs more than just 'snug' which i assume is the correct way. Blah... I already have a new alternator waiting to be installed to solve the eletrical problem.. but first things first...is my engine ok, is there anything i need to do, change or inspect?
    Tags: None
    #2
    As for the oil issue, you can change the seals in the spark plugs. Just go get a new valve cover gasket set, it'll have new seals in there. This might sound stupid, but, how is the coolant level? my car was running rough at idle, checked the coolant, it was a bit low, topped it off, car runs fine. I think it's safe to say that with a little work, your car should be fine

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      #3
      Alright, so ... should i toss the sparks and get some new ones (clean) or should i clean the old ones... or am I fine? As for a gasket, heh... to add to the list so far...

      Car base price 1,000
      Alternator 150
      Spark plugs 3 bucks x 4.

      So roughly... 1175.

      I managed to get the brake light and oil lights to go away when i drive the car so... that's great. The brakes feel light to press and kinnae weak, i already got some dot 3 brake fluid ill add in after i change the pads ... tomorrow.

      Comment

        #4
        Nah, you can keep the plugs, just clean em. And the spark plug gaskets are simple to change, as is the valve cover gasket. Had to do it in my car, and if you browse the site, you'll see that oil in the spark plug holes is a common problem, almost as common as the vss or rust on the rear quarters.

        If the pedal is weak, you might wanna bleed the brakes

        Comment

          #5
          I'm sorry but what is VSS also rust on the rear panel, any way to prevent this? I plan to make this car a daily driver currently and later one day strip it, clean it and turn it into a little sexpot of a machine.

          Oh and thanks for answering my Q's.

          Comment

            #6
            The vss is the vehicle speed sensor, and if your speedometer stops working, 99% of the time, that's the cause of it. And there really isn't any way of preventing rust. Some have it tho, some don't

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              #7
              Engines not so weak sounding once i replaced the ignition wires, cleaned the sparks and replaced the valve gaskets but it STILL has that rough idle. When i had the gasket off the oil was kinda dark-ish.. I figure an oil change and spiking the gasoline with some 10 point octane fuel injector cleaner and rev it a little for 1 or so minutes would solve the prob? My engine did get holy-fuck-hot. I topped off the radiator with water to the top.

              I still need to replace the alternator, i bought a brand new one thats sittin in my room... bleeed breaks, replace cap/rotor, water pump, oil filter, oil and air filter.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by RetailHell View Post
                Engines not so weak sounding once i replaced the ignition wires, cleaned the sparks and replaced the valve gaskets but it STILL has that rough idle. When i had the gasket off the oil was kinda dark-ish.. I figure an oil change and spiking the gasoline with some 10 point octane fuel injector cleaner and rev it a little for 1 or so minutes would solve the prob? My engine did get holy-fuck-hot. I topped off the radiator with water to the top.

                I still need to replace the alternator, i bought a brand new one thats sittin in my room... bleeed breaks, replace cap/rotor, water pump, oil filter, oil and air filter.

                on the water in the radiator, if you let the coolant/water ratio get below 40% you will experience impaired cooling capacity and increase the risk of overboiling the system. Try to add 50/50 coolant/water mix to the radiator when possible. You may want to test the coolant to see what the balance is at some point.

                Changing the oil sounds like a good plan, but don't rev the engine until the car is fully warmed up (fan has come on a couple times) as the oil doesn't get thin enough to maximally protect the engine until that point. But you probably knew that.

                With the brakes, I would second that bleeding them is the first thing to try. Weak braking could also be caused by overworn pads but try bleeding the system first.
                Last edited by batever; 10-04-2008, 09:26 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Dude I've been where you are.. got a cheap beat ass 90 LX

                  It was jacked up! so first thing I did was a tune up... except I didnt do the valve clearance which I wish I would of done. replaced oil.. sparkies.. valve gaskets... air filter.. fuel filter... motor mounts... clutch master and slave cylinder... got tires balanced and rotated... cleaned out EACV and a lil of the throttle body... flushed water coolant... change front brake shoes.

                  Get some sea foam or B-12 and the cheapest 10W-30 and oil filter (wal-mart brand) and then some decent quality 10-30 or 40 and a decent filter . Pour in a a lil sea foam in the brake booster port and the crankcase and let the engine idle for 10 min or so. take out oil and filter and replace with 3.5 quarts of the cheap oil and cheap filter. Put in the whole contents of the sea foam in the crankcase and drive around for a full tank. This should break up a lot of the sludge assuming you get the engine hot and running for at least 30 min at a time. After the gas tank... change the oil and use the good filter and oil.... time to time use b-12 or sea foam in your pcv or brake booster. Oh and get yourself some Durramax or Slick50 for older cars for the last half quart of oil.

                  To clean your fuel injectors I recommend buying a few gallons of e85... it works way better and is cheaper than stp stuff!

                  If I think of anything else I will let you know.
                  Last edited by AD5OS; 10-04-2008, 11:01 PM.
                  AD5OS
                  FOLDING@home

                  Comment

                    #10
                    cleaned n flushed da oil and i find my fans dont go on when the engine idles and the steering-wheel still jiggles a bit after 4 miniutes of idling... at this point i have no clue what to do.... are my fans fucked and i needae replace em or do they not fire up on idle or what.... blah i know how a pellican feels when its saturated in oil, i swear the oem nut and oil filter are a bitch to remove when theyre sealed hard.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      You should replace the cap and rotor if youre doing the plugs and wires.
                      1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

                      1986 Chevrolet C10|5.3L|SM465|Shortbed|Custom Deluxe

                      1983 Malibu Wagon|TPI 305|T5 5 speed|3.73 non-posi


                      1992 Accord Wagon (RETIRED)

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by RetailHell View Post
                        cleaned n flushed da oil and i find my fans dont go on when the engine idles and the steering-wheel still jiggles a bit after 4 miniutes of idling... at this point i have no clue what to do.... are my fans fucked and i needae replace em or do they not fire up on idle or what.... blah i know how a pellican feels when its saturated in oil, i swear the oem nut and oil filter are a bitch to remove when theyre sealed hard.

                        sorry to hear about your oil bath, that's never much fun.

                        about the fan, fans will only come on after the coolant temperature gets high enough, I believe they run off the thermostat. I would worry if they don't come on when the temperature gauge is showing 1/2 to 3/4 on the needle. It may take 10 minutes of idle for the fan to come on this time of year.

                        So the fact they don't come on right away is not necessarily a problem. If you want though, take a look at this thread as it gives some ideas for diagnosing the cooling system:

                        http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=116668



                        about the steering, I know nothing about that.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Accrdwgnguy View Post
                          You should replace the cap and rotor if youre doing the plugs and wires.
                          did and done that today.

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