i wanna buy a performance clutch for my car...i was thinking about a stage 2 excedy clutch...they have a thin and thick ceramatic something...what is the difference between those??
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excedy clutch
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maybe he wants a thicker clutch for hard launching. if so, exedy is one of the best clutches. i didnt even break in mines and was still going strong! stage 2 is too thick for stock applications. go with stage 1. but to tell you the truth, its not worth to upgrade a clutch when your running stock. exedy 1 is like stock clutch but could take more of a beating.miss my turbo cb7
moved onto volvos. dont know how that happened, just did
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I think there's an Exedy 1.5 as well... I'm pretty sure that's what 93twodoorLX got from Grip Force on ebay. Like stock, but a little stronger.Originally posted by quickangel93 View Postmaybe he wants a thicker clutch for hard launching. if so, exedy is one of the best clutches. i didnt even break in mines and was still going strong! stage 2 is too thick for stock applications. go with stage 1. but to tell you the truth, its not worth to upgrade a clutch when your running stock. exedy 1 is like stock clutch but could take more of a beating.
You don't need better than stock if you aren't putting down considerable power. The H22 and F22 have the same clutch... that should tell you a little bit about how much it can take. You won't be putting an F22 over stock H22 power very easily.
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my last clutch was a stage one exedy.... it feels like a stock clutch as far as shifting ease. didnt notice much in performance. however its pretty much OEM quality and i think it comes with a much lighter 11lbs. flywheel which you should noticeOriginally posted by kenjin View Posti wanna buy a performance clutch for my car...i was thinking about a stage 2 excedy clutch...they have a thin and thick ceramatic something...what is the difference between those??
overall great buy considering honda charges like 350$ for an OEM one, not including throwout bearings which should def. be done with your clutch
mike
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How can you tell if the clutch doesn't offer much "performance"? Does it slip? If it doesn't slip, and it grips when you need it to, that's all the performance you need. You don't WANT a clutch with a harsh engagement, unless you absolutely need it... and you don't need that until you get well above practical street power.Originally posted by mikesCB-7 View Postmy last clutch was a stage one exedy.... it feels like a stock clutch as far as shifting ease. didnt notice much in performance. however its pretty much OEM quality and i think it comes with a much lighter 11lbs. flywheel which you should notice
overall great buy considering honda charges like 350$ for an OEM one, not including throwout bearings which should def. be done with your clutch
mike
The flywheel that you get depends on the package you order... or if you get the parts separately. The flywheel doesn't automatically come with a clutch.
If you do not get a new flywheel with a clutch replacement, you MUST resurface your old flywheel... or the clutch will not work properly.
I have an 11lb flywheel myself, and I like it. Not too light, but sportier feeling than stock.
As for the throwout bearing, ALWAYS replace that... and ALWAYS use a Honda bearing. Even with the Exedy kit, I would still go to Honda and spend the money for an OEM bearing straight from the dealer. I was stupid with my car and didn't use a Honda bearing. My car is currently parked in my driveway due to a failed bearing.
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Found this on a webpage that sells Exedy clutches
The reduced thickness (thin cerametallic) discs offer greatly reduced inertia to improve shift efforts, make for faster shifting, and improve synchro durability. These discs are approximately 1/2 the thickness of a stock disc.
The normal thickness (thick cerametallic) discs have better heat capacity and therefore better durability in demanding applications such as all wheel drive. Even with the normal thickness, our three puck cerametallic discs still typically have less inertia than a stock disc.
With any cerametallic clutch system, there will be some compromise of start up driveability as compared to a stock clutch (chatter on light throttle, low rpm start up). This characteristic is generally felt to be acceptable in modified performance cars. Drivers of cerametallic clutches on the street should be warned not to "ride the clutch" to try to reduce the chatter as this will greatly increase the wear.
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my only intentions where to tell the guy it was stock like..... so when i said perfomance i just meant it shifted like stock, nothing heavy duty or anything. and the lighter flywheel came with my clutch i was suggesting he get one with the clutch, because he would notice a difference.Originally posted by deevergote. View PostHow can you tell if the clutch doesn't offer much "performance"? Does it slip? If it doesn't slip, and it grips when you need it to, that's all the performance you need. You don't WANT a clutch with a harsh engagement, unless you absolutely need it... and you don't need that until you get well above practical street power.
The flywheel that you get depends on the package you order... or if you get the parts separately. The flywheel doesn't automatically come with a clutch.
If you do not get a new flywheel with a clutch replacement, you MUST resurface your old flywheel... or the clutch will not work properly.
I have an 11lb flywheel myself, and I like it. Not too light, but sportier feeling than stock.
As for the throwout bearing, ALWAYS replace that... and ALWAYS use a Honda bearing. Even with the Exedy kit, I would still go to Honda and spend the money for an OEM bearing straight from the dealer. I was stupid with my car and didn't use a Honda bearing. My car is currently parked in my driveway due to a failed bearing.
id have to agree with OEM bearing, i too got a different brand and it went out almost immediatly..... it also was cracked when i pulled it out which ive never seen before. haha what you get for cheapin; out
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