I think I have the problem narrowed down to the engine not getting fuel. I don't hear the fuel pump hum and I don't hear any relays click under the steering wheel when i turn the key to "on". Earlier, I took off the main relay and inspected for cold solder joints or cracks but found no cracks - so I put it back on. I just need some guidance on finding out if the fuel pump is getting power. The manual talks about a "fuel cut off relay" - is this the same as the main relay? The manual shows picutres of being able to access the "fuel cut off relay" by removing the "dashboard under cover" if so - then this is not the main relay or is it? heck it's late - i've had my head and shoulders by the brake pedal all night and I'm a little loopy from the starter spray!!
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car starts only with spray in intake
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try an see i ur fuel relay under the dash is bad ..... cause my sisters cb7 did that i took it out an put it back in an it started right up
my ride check it out
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=122926
an if u have myspace add me
http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...ndID=138825010
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i would not trust a visually inspection of solder joints. youd be surprised. track down a soldering iron and just re melt and add a dab of fresh solder to each joint.
thats an easy fix of a common problem, which it sounds like that would be the source of. otherwise youd have to test probe a few wires, like the yellow power wire to the fuel pump under the rear seat. or the wires leading TO the main relay, make sure that that is even getting power at all.
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What mike said. If you pull off the main relay the only way you can properly inspect it is with a magnifying glass. Even that wont catch all of them. With the age of the cars its better to assume its cracked and just resolder all the joints. That will also remedy one problem off your checklist if that wasnt the culprit. But since you said no FP or fuel main relay is the common link.Originally posted by cp[mike] View Posti would not trust a visually inspection of solder joints. youd be surprised. track down a soldering iron and just re melt and add a dab of fresh solder to each joint.
thats an easy fix of a common problem, which it sounds like that would be the source of. otherwise youd have to test probe a few wires, like the yellow power wire to the fuel pump under the rear seat. or the wires leading TO the main relay, make sure that that is even getting power at all.
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your injectors could also be clogged if they have bad gas in them or if they've been sitting for awhile. Thats what happened w/ my H22, I had to take them out and spray them out w/ carb cleaner to get all the gummed up fuel out.
But if you've never replaced/soldered the main relay, do so now, mine failed about 2 yrs ago when i had about 155k on the clock. But that may be diff. for you since my car has been an AZ car its entire life, so its exposed to extreme temperatures most of the year that could've affected the solder joints
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I re-soldered and the main relay checks out good both with 12 volt independent power supply and connected to the car. The cable harness to the main relay also checks out good - battery voltage is seen at all pins where it should be seen. Voltage is seen at the fuel pump connector too. So it must be the fuel pump - was afraid of this
. There is a plate to get to it in the trunk but thinking best to drop the tank.
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You can try the plate. If all else fails as you said drop the tank. Make sure your almost empty lol or your gonna have a bitch of a time.
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