Valve Spring swap

[nostringz]

i'm thinking about the bisi stage 2 regrind with pro valve springs. but i don't have to take off the head to get the springs off right?

[AbsurdNY]

You can leave the head on but if you do, you have to put compressed air into the cylinder to keep the valve from falling in.

[angus67]

or, take cotton rope and stuff as much as you can in the sparkplug hole. that will hold the valve up.

[los170bx]

hey guys what if you take off the head and you get the valve compressin tools for it would it still fall?? im asking cause i want to swap my valves and springs too thanks in advance

[turbo90accord]

take the head off if your gonna remove the valves. then use the c clamp style valve spring compressor.

[bcjammerx]

or, take cotton rope and stuff as much as you can in the sparkplug hole. that will hold the valve up.

I don't like this idea

[Fake Thug]

I don't like this idea

why? Its more reliable than the compressed air method. The valve is guarenteed not to fall.

[whitejdmcb7]

cause by filling the cylander with air makes its own atmospere and the air pressue in the cylinder pushes up on the valve to hold it in place

[Jon]

To the OP, I just did that very job, a Bisi Level 2 cam with Pro Springs and had ZERO problems and this is what I did.

Start off by removing the rocker arm assembly and camshaft.
Make sure it was set at TDC on cylinder #1.
Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1 if you haven't already and thread an air compressed valve holder into the spark plug hole (I used Lisle part # 19700 valve holder) and apply air to the cylinder.
Then fit your OHV spring compressor over the spring (I used a K-D Tools 2078 universal spring compressor that I modified, if you want info about that, just ask) and compress the spring and use a magnet to grab the keepers, you can use needle nose pliers, just that a magnet is easier.
Then lift the spring out.

Once all four springs on cylinder #1 are removed, release the compressed air (don't worry, it's at TDC on the cylinder #1 so the valve will not fall into the chamber but will only slide down a little bit and rest on the top of the piston) and move to cylinder #4 since it is also in the up position.
Install the valve holder and repeat the process.
Once all of the springs are removed from #1 and #4, remove the valve stem seals and clean up everything (the retainers, keepers, mating surfaces, etc.).
Install new seals, apply air pressure to the cylinder you are working on and install the new springs, retainers, and keepers.

Once I did all of that and had all eight springs installed on #1 and #4, I rotated the crankshaft 180° counter clockwise so that #2 and #3 are in the up position (one on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke), and repeated the process as explained above.

Couldn't be easier, especially with the right tools.

Hope that helps.

[AbsurdNY]

why? Its more reliable than the compressed air method. The valve is guarenteed not to fall.

If the compressed air method fails, that means the seals are bad. I have always used compressed air when i changed my springs. Never had a problem at all.

[Jon]

If the compressed air method fails, that means the seals are bad. I have always used compressed air when i changed my springs. Never had a problem at all.

Exactly. When I was removing my springs I could hear a bit of air hissing out. After I got the new seals installed it was silent.