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1990 Accord Ex Questions

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    #16
    if you are getting spark, and you def. have fuel at the rail...than it can be your ignition switch. And its def. not throwing a code correct? take your ignition switch out and have a looks see. shouldnt take you no longer than 30min+ to take it out n shit...

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      #17
      well i know the computer is on the pass side of the car under the carpet, how do i tell what codes its throwing? and should the check engine light be on if its throwing a code

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        #18
        if its throwing a code. your check engine light will be on. And if you have a code, unless you have the 90 ecu with the lil led light. you gotta jump the harness.

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          #19
          i still have the stock ecu that cam in the car. i have never swapped it out. so how would i jump the harness

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            #20
            look for your ecu than, should have the led light and count the flashes. the haynes manual explains it a bit better cuz theres 2 diff. types of flashes. or you can search on here cuz im sure its been posted already.

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              #21
              You have spark, but it might be a weak spark. Does it look fat and blue (strong), or thin and yellow (weak)?

              Have the lead resistance checked by an auto electrician.
              Regards from Oz,
              John.

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                #22
                i checked it with a tester and it tested good. i really dont know what else it could be. i have a question though. could it be bad plug wires?

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                  #23
                  ok well i checked the plugs and they are fine. there are two wires that the boots are messed up on. but i replaced them. and i checked the timing belt and its fine. so anybody else have any other suggestions

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                    #24
                    'Leads' = 'plug wires'.

                    The resistance in the leads builds up as they age, so eventually you have X current entering the lead at the distributor but only X- current arriving at the spark plug (and the leads heat up more than they should, but you won't feel the difference by touching them).

                    The 'ignitor' in the distributor has a limited life span, commonly failing after a fairly high mileage, you might want to get that checked (also, high lead resistance is one cause of ignitor failure, so if the ignitor is toast you may well need new leads to keep the new ignitor alive).
                    Regards from Oz,
                    John.

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                      #25
                      ok thanks john. but another question. with the f22a4 engines what parts are notorious for going out? the engine has 195,000 miles on it. i just put a new head, timing belt, balance shaft belt on it also i replaced the dizzy cap, rotor button, and plugs but not the wires.

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                        #26
                        Not much that I'm aware of; ignition switch will die eventually, auto trans is not Honda's finest work...

                        Having said that, with Hondas in particular, neglect will kill minor components such as engines...
                        Regards from Oz,
                        John.

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                          #27
                          alright thanks. well i had a feeling that the ignition switch could be bad. i was told by a mechanic that the ignition switch needs to be replaced and he told me that is what is causing the car to crank but not start.

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