rough start

[esskater892]

when i start the car its really rough. also when its at like 1500 through 2500 rpm's its kinda running rough. like esp when im trying to keep a constant speed at about 45 - 50. its a auto and i dont have the motor mount with the vacuum line. might also know it as a motor mount with the cylinoid valve. its for comfort with the autos. but the thing is that was changed awhile ago and it just now doing this. could it be timing?

[19TcappaLX]

sound like it need new plugs and wires for starter.and a clean air filter.

[esskater892]

there fine ive checked them.all wires and plugs. dist is fine its new...well ya it could be new and not fine but im sure its not it....i hope lol. i mean other than replacing the plugs wires and dist i havent done any sort of tune up sense ive owned the car.

[ExplodingCake]

No CEL?

[esskater892]

No CEL?

idk what a CEL is.
i was thinking fuel pump because its rough at a constant speed. ???

[vietkid_2006]

idk what a CEL is.

CEL is Check Engine Light

[esskater892]

oh. ya man no light..CEL. its just norm right now.

[be3p067]

New parts go bad too. But if you're sure it's not the dizzy, check your fuel filter(s) and fuel pump. if it's not them, check timing and compression, assuming the dizzy and wires are good.

[esskater892]

ya dizzy should be straight....well could it be the timing if when in park i rev to about 1500-2500rpms i can feel it like idk like stutter a lil idk if thats the right word

[esskater892]

bump

[Reignstarz]

I was just going to ask you how you idled.

Check your rpms, You can change it with a 10 mm wrench its on the t/b


You want idle at 800 ish rpm for it to be a nice pur.

Now if you lower your rpms and it's still stutter, you want to clean you FITV(Fast idle thermo Valve) and IACV(Idle air control valve).

This is also on your t/b It's 2 pieces. one has 2 10s mm and one has 3 mm I believe.

Clean it out with Carbon cleaner, or starting fluid.

Another crazy thing is if it's still idling weird after this, Check your line going from your t/b down near you battery. Mine was stuck today and my throttle wouldn't open all the way. So when I HIT my gas like down hard my pedal was super hard, and the highest rpm i ever got was like 3-4k lol If I was "racing" someone on the street I would be happy if I hit 5k lol.

Let me know how this helps you out man.

Edit: Oh yeah what year is your ride again? and you can try retarding your distrib.

motor mount wont cause you to idle. Basically a bad motor moutn will make your car jerk when going from say park to Drive or neutral to drive.

[Shag Wagon]

I think we adjust idle with a flat head...brah. You could have a clogged cat. What kind of plugs do you have in there?

[js593]

I was just going to ask you how you idled.

Check your rpms, You can change it with a 10 mm wrench its on the t/b


You want idle at 800 ish rpm for it to be a nice pur.

Now if you lower your rpms and it's still stutter, you want to clean you FITV(Fast idle thermo Valve) and IACV(Idle air control valve).

This is also on your t/b It's 2 pieces. one has 2 10s mm and one has 3 mm I believe.

Clean it out with Carbon cleaner, or starting fluid.

Another crazy thing is if it's still idling weird after this, Check your line going from your t/b down near you battery. Mine was stuck today and my throttle wouldn't open all the way. So when I HIT my gas like down hard my pedal was super hard, and the highest rpm i ever got was like 3-4k lol If I was "racing" someone on the street I would be happy if I hit 5k lol.

Let me know how this helps you out man.

Edit: Oh yeah what year is your ride again? and you can try retarding your distrib.

motor mount wont cause you to idle. Basically a bad motor moutn will make your car jerk when going from say park to Drive or neutral to drive.

Starter fluid to clean out a TB? Man, are you trying to kill someone? 2 piece Throttle body, thats a first ive heard from these motors.
If your getting stuck at low RPM's like 3-4K, there is something wrong with your setup, possibly a vacume leak. If your getting power loss and jerking, i would do a compression test on each cylinder and compare them (while doing this, make sure you dont have a ton of oil int he plug chambers), they shouldnt be more then 10% of eachother.

Next up: check your distributor cap and rotor for any corrosion/rust, replace if neccessary, or clean with xtra fine grit sandpaper.


Next up, check your timing. Make sure your marks are all lined up.

Post up results.

[Shag Wagon]

I had bosch plugs in my wagon when I first bought it and it skipped like a school girl playing hop scotch! NGKs did the trick and she ran like a top again.

[Reignstarz]

I think we adjust idle with a flat head...brah. You could have a clogged cat. What kind of plugs do you have in there?

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=301hr0l&s=5

You don't see those 2 10 mm nuts right below the p? that's where I adjust my idle.

But I did use a flat head in my Intake Control valve =]

And basically what happened is not the throttle cable but the one that goes down towards the front of the car near the battery and the radiator. Well the metal piece that lifts up when you hit the gas wasn't going up far enough so I wasn't getting the full force behind my engine. My rpms stayed at like 3k lol.

And yeah I Used Starter fluid to clean my valves and used a toothbrush.

Check this out for cleaning IACV and FITV.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1844067

And I can't remember what plugs I have in my car lol.

Edit: My car only jerks when coming out of park and into drive. Also kinda at 31 mph. I was just saying that motor mount wouldn't cause the car to idle funny.