I know that Progress and other companies make an aftermarket rear sway bar, however i was wondering if there are any other cars or vans that have a sway bar that i could grab from my local scrap yard that i could make fit?
Announcement
Collapse
1 of 2
<
>
ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2
<
>
Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less
Rear sway bar.
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by sleeper759 View PostI know that Progress and other companies make an aftermarket rear sway bar, however i was wondering if there are any other cars or vans that have a sway bar that i could grab from my local scrap yard that i could make fit?
Then it'll bolt right up. If you have an LX/DX accord though, you'll need the EX rear crossmember that already has the bracket holes predrilled.
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents
-
Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Postan EX accord has a factory rear sway bar thats 14mm in diameter. If you're lucky you'll find an Acura Vigor that has a 16mm rear sway that bolts up to the exact mounting spots the EX accord one does. You just need to enlarge the rubber mounting grommet by 2mm, I found a dremel or drill to be the easiest way.
Then it'll bolt right up. If you have an LX/DX accord though, you'll need the EX rear crossmember that already has the bracket holes predrilled.
I've read that the rear bar adds understeer, and many people opt to go without one. I've never driven with one, so I have no personal experience there, though.
Comment
-
Originally posted by wed3k View Postrear bar reduces understeer. even with a progress rear sway in my project car, it still understeers a bit.
Comment
-
So there are no other cars that i can use a rear sway bar from that is similar size to a progress sway bar? I know that with the progress sway bar its not just a bolt on, so i am willing to try and make another sway bar work as long as i know which car to get it off of, something in the 20mm size or so.
Comment
-
A stiffer rear anti roll bar (sway bar) reduces understeer by increasing rear roll stiffness and thus increasing the % of total lateral weight transfer that occurs at the rear and equally reducing the % of total lateral WT that occurs at the front (even though nothing was done to the front, less WT occurs at the front). The same thing occurs if front roll stiffness is reduced (softer front ARB or springs), though body roll will increase.
I've adapted a front ARB from a Mitsubishi Magna to the rear of my CB7. This is a 20mm ARB that I've mounted similarly to how Progress mount their CB7 / CD5 rear ARBs (but with additional mount re-inforcements where the end links attach to the suspension, a good idea with any rear ARB on these cars because the stock attachment method allows excessive flexure of the radius rod / trailing arm, which effectively softens the ARB rate as seen at the contact patches).
This was not a straightforward job, the ARB needing to be heated (red-hot) and bent as appropriate to fit the Honda. The end links are each now a hybrid link with the upper end being stock Honda (with poly bushing), and the lower end being a ball joint style pivot sourced from a Toyota Camry ARB link (the two parts being welded together). The Toyota link joint suits the Mitsubishi ARB, but was easier to adapt onto the Honda link than the Mitsubishi joint.
Now, because the ARB was heated to modify it's shape, any heat treatment that may have existed will have been negated. However, my research suggests that many ARBs are not heat treated at all (and I have no idea whether or not the Mitsubishi ARB originally was or not), relying only upon the qualities of the untreated steel, which is more than adequate in most cases (often some form of chrome moly or similar). Running a file over the annealed Mitsubishi ARB steel does suggest that it is still significantly harder than mild steel...
It would be preferable if the steel were to be heat treated (or re-heat treated), but in most cases the degree to which the ARB is twisted in use does not exceed the elastic limit of the un-heat treated steel used, so the steel is not likely to be significantly affected in use. In some applications where there is a great deal of suspension travel this may not be the case, e.g. off road use 4WD.
I didn't re-heat treat the ARB due to cost considerations, but have had no problems at all (so far).
Note that whether the steel is heat treated or not, the modulus of elasticity of steel is the same, i.e. a heat treated ARB and an un-heat treated ARB of the same dimensions will be equally as stiff as each other, the difference being that the un-treated steel will have a lower elastic limit and therefore will be permanently deformed (twisted / bent) more easily (i.e. you can twist a heat treated bar more before it permanently deforms).Regards from Oz,
John.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Postan EX accord has a factory rear sway bar thats 14mm in diameter. If you're lucky you'll find an Acura Vigor that has a 16mm rear sway that bolts up to the exact mounting spots the EX accord one does. You just need to enlarge the rubber mounting grommet by 2mm, I found a dremel or drill to be the easiest way.
Then it'll bolt right up. If you have an LX/DX accord though, you'll need the EX rear crossmember that already has the bracket holes predrilled.
Comment
-
Originally posted by kantkillkeenan View Posti think explicitspeedproformance.net makes them...i know im getting the tri front bar...shit is sick
Comment
-
Originally posted by deevergote. View PostYou are the Vigor sway bar master! You're always the first to post in any thread regarding that
I've read that the rear bar adds understeer, and many people opt to go without one. I've never driven with one, so I have no personal experience there, though.
Originally posted by johnl View PostA stiffer rear anti roll bar (sway bar) reduces understeer by increasing rear roll stiffness and thus increasing the % of total lateral weight transfer that occurs at the rear and equally reducing the % of total lateral WT that occurs at the front (even though nothing was done to the front, less WT occurs at the front). The same thing occurs if front roll stiffness is reduced (softer front ARB or springs), though body roll will increase.
I've adapted a front ARB from a Mitsubishi Magna to the rear of my CB7. This is a 20mm ARB that I've mounted similarly to how Progress mount their CB7 / CD5 rear ARBs (but with additional mount re-inforcements where the end links attach to the suspension, a good idea with any rear ARB on these cars because the stock attachment method allows excessive flexure of the radius rod / trailing arm, which effectively softens the ARB rate as seen at the contact patches).
This was not a straightforward job, the ARB needing to be heated (red-hot) and bent as appropriate to fit the Honda. The end links are each now a hybrid link with the upper end being stock Honda (with poly bushing), and the lower end being a ball joint style pivot sourced from a Toyota Camry ARB link (the two parts being welded together). The Toyota link joint suits the Mitsubishi ARB, but was easier to adapt onto the Honda link than the Mitsubishi joint.
Now, because the ARB was heated to modify it's shape, any heat treatment that may have existed will have been negated. However, my research suggests that many ARBs are not heat treated at all (and I have no idea whether or not the Mitsubishi ARB originally was or not), relying only upon the qualities of the untreated steel, which is more than adequate in most cases (often some form of chrome moly or similar). Running a file over the annealed Mitsubishi ARB steel does suggest that it is still significantly harder than mild steel...
It would be preferable if the steel were to be heat treated (or re-heat treated), but in most cases the degree to which the ARB is twisted in use does not exceed the elastic limit of the un-heat treated steel used, so the steel is not likely to be significantly affected in use. In some applications where there is a great deal of suspension travel this may not be the case, e.g. off road use 4WD.
I didn't re-heat treat the ARB due to cost considerations, but have had no problems at all (so far).
Note that whether the steel is heat treated or not, the modulus of elasticity of steel is the same, i.e. a heat treated ARB and an un-heat treated ARB of the same dimensions will be equally as stiff as each other, the difference being that the un-treated steel will have a lower elastic limit and therefore will be permanently deformed (twisted / bent) more easily (i.e. you can twist a heat treated bar more before it permanently deforms).
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents
Comment
Comment